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  1. Today
  2. Hi all, more progress made, upper ring welded together and ready to be ground down (many thanks Chris ), tomorrow base unit to be done, more to follow . Brian (The small cog in the larger Dalek machine D= )
  3. Great work, I am just returning to making my MDF dalek lighter, is it easy to make the fender two part so it would fit in a car. I
  4. I just noticed that the forum does not have an SSL security certificate, so browsers connect to the server by HTTP:// rather than HTTPS:// ie: the connection is not encrypted. This is only of concern really where sensitive data is involved, such as user passwords. Please Note, I may be talking out of turn here, as there may be some other clever jiggery pokery with Javascript, PHP or some other method of encrypting just the password at the browser before it's transmitted, but thought I'd check. If there is another method, then the rest of this message is less important, but the sentiment below about user passwords is still important to raise awareness of. Any data sent to a server over HTTP:// connection can be sniffed / read by a third party network packet analyser. No big deal when discussing Dalek build techniques, BUT may be a big deal on the login page, as I'm sure there will be more than a few members who will have used similar passwords for this forum as their Internet Banking / PayPal / Amazon / Ebay etc.. It's something most of us have probably been guilty of at some point. An SSL Security Certificate encrypts the connection between the users browser and the web server and gives you an HTTPS:// connection and little green padlock type symbol, so anything a user types in to the website gets scrambled by their browser, and then de-scrambled by the web server - meaning if anyone is sniffing in between all they will see is "sd£g$h9j%k4^5&*(" instead of your password. Just thought I'd raise this, not to encourage the forum to by and install an SSL Security Certificate, but instead to raise awareness, and hope that anyone using an Internet Banking / PayPal password for this forum goes and changes it. SSL Security Certificates have to be renewed each year, and have a cost associated with them, so to keep the forum costs (and admin) down, it can be omitted, but users should be encouraged to have a password very dissimilar to passwords associated with other sensitive / important online accounts. Cheers, Scott.
  5. Come up to Brisbane. I have a 44 gallon drum of un-waxed Poly, with about 18 litres missing..... (I don't have any fiberglass mat though)
  6. Please move if this is not the right place to post this but I am looking for a hi res version of this image: to composite photos of my Dalek build over. They look ok on the low res version: but they'd look better if I lay them on a high res version
  7. So EVENTUALLY the gel went from liquid to tacky after about 4 hours, so I layed up the matting. I went with two layers of 450 gsm, going within a couple of mm of the edge. Basically as close to the edges are I dare go really. Possibly with the odd strand actually gong past the line. It was slightly tedious work, as I had to constantly remove overrun or loose fibers. It took about 140ml of gelcoat ( I could EASILY have doubled that..) and 400ml of polyester resin for the two layers on the rings. Then as soon as the resin started to gel and become leathery I use a knife and cut off any loose hanging fibers and bolted the two moulds together. From there I ran 80ml of gelcoat down the interior seams of the moulds, and I'll then run another strip of fibreglass in the gap between the two sides. However, that's where my luck ran out, for two reasons, firstly the gel was still wet at 4:30pm (I had to pick my daughter up at 5pm) and secondly I have run out of polyester resin. Frustrating, as I need probably 100-200ml to complete the rings. I suspect I will probably need a good 1.2 litres of polyester resin to complete the neck bin itself, frustrating because the 'diggers' fibreglass resin I've been getting is about $35 a tin, so to complete the neck will be about AUD$80 with these small expensive pots. Or if I got $200 20 litres tub.. about $12 worth of resin. Of course, I have $35, but not $200, so it will cost significantly more because I'm terribly poor!
  8. My Dad was a Plumber, he didn't have brass nipples. They were just normal ones like any other bloke. Yeah, the thicker 10mm aluminium tube from Bunnings is what I put a thread on, though I'm sure I have three lamp rods around here somewhere. I wonder if an old second-hand store or Vinnies (or Ikea?) would have old lamps that could donate their rod for building?
  9. I totally agree with Ferrain on this. I'm currently building an original Dead Planet 1960's Dalek and that's challenging enough. The later Daleks get progressively more difficult as the parts are more complex to replicate especially the shoulders. Also I dont think there's enough old Daleks about either, so you could try to add to the species. Good luck
  10. Given your skillset Bec, I reckon you'll take to MIG like a kid to a hot glue gun! I'm presently trying to learn TIG ... stainless ... ahahahahaha, good luck me - (for brewery equipment) . My first effort of a bead 'round a socket ended up looking like a cow turd. Think I might need more practice yet! I tried to find "lamp rod"... even asked for "hollow threaded rod" and "threaded tube". Tried Brummies, all the local hardwares, even Middendorps electrical supplies where the girl looked at me like I was from another planet.... er ... Rather than wait for a delivery from e-bung I figured I'd end up having to make something and pondered along the lines of PVC/electrical conduit when I tripped over some ali tube 12mm. Nice and light, I thought, so I tried to put a thread on that. As fast as I threaded it was peeling off like one of those curly spud peelers. Back to the drawing board, and while I was wondering if plumbers had brass nipple to suit, I stumbled across some thicker walled 10mm ali tube. I think I've managed to get a half decent thread on that and I think there's enough room to shove the required wires up the 'ole for blue LED, iris servo and maybe another colour LED. Hopefully I'll get chance to tinker some more before the weekend although we have accreditation at work this week. Darned bureaucratic bull perkacker.
  11. Sorry I forgot to add that I'm doing some reinforcement to the frame itself as I cut a little short on the two studs
  12. Moving on to the beginning of the build... Convienantly I had a nice sized board of plywood at hand and some thin plywood boards from when I was building a door aaaand some 1"by2" boards from when I built my work table. I started out by drawing out the frame for the skirt a few times and a few slats for the sides, everything was looking good about a week or so later when I had time one day I built the frame and started "testing" some slats... it was at this point that I realized that the slats weren't exactly lining up as well as they should, I then look at the FAQ area on here and learned this is fairly common and what to do ( something called the X factor) I ended up deciding that it would be easier for me to start on the rear most panel and work my way around so at this time I'm about halfway around. After I get the panels completed I'm going to work on making the bottom of the skirt using 2"x3" studs which measures closer to the measurements on the plans. It is this part of the skirt that I'm going to have the motors attach to( I'm going to make this as an attachment so that I can pull it out at any time. when I'm done that I'm goIng to do some more work on skirt by taping the outside edges and Fiberglassing the inside seems, when this has cured I will remove the tape and fill in the seems with Fiberglass reinforced automotive putty and sanding to get my seems and what not. attached are some photos of progress up to this point.
  13. Hey guys it's Bryan from London Ontario Canada, I've just recently started the build phase of my Dalek, I'm currently working on a shawcraft mk 3 warrior dalek. Im going to start off my saying that I started this process a little over a year when I started collecting the tools that I felt might be needed to make a Dalek(much to some of people who doesn't understand what the appeal to building a Dalek has) and a work bench to do my work on. Intent: By the end of this build I plan on having this bad boy able to function mostly wirelessly using an Xbox controller to all motor functions, from moving the Dalek around unmanned to head and eye stalk movement. I haven't decided if I'm going to give him a focusing iris or not as I already have an old lens that I'm willing to take apart. I also plan on adding a voice modular device and the ability to play loud sound through the Dalek, if I can figure out if I can use the mic system of the Xbox controller that will be the way I will do it. these are the parts the I'm going to be getting to run these functions for the most part 36amp 24v motor controller by sabertooth an addition motor controller by sabertooth arduino uno usb host shield for arduino uno usb receiver for Xbox controller xbox controller other parts tbd before the build: For some reason I felt the need to go out and buy a used wheelchair first, this cost me 150cdn full working order with battery and built in charger. Because I'm build in a small area in the basement and because the unit was so heavy I decided to take all the compents from the chair I was going to use off and left the frame inside the van. As you read my post you are going to see that I tend to learn things the hard way. Anyway I got the motors, batteries and the rest of the components and wiring down stairs and began plugging it all to make sure it all continued to work, sure enough it all did. Now knowing what I'm planning to control the motors through an arduino and a motor controller I start worrying about how I'm going to recharge the batteries I have when I remove the controller. So I start testing the available wire to see where the currents are which works out but I'm not sure about the inhibited on the on board charger and how it works ... long story short I ended up taking apart the steering dongle and accidentally broke one of the chips on the bottom from not being able to find the screws that attached them to the case. For those of you wondering yes I did my research on the wiring but the information I was looking for was not available so I figured it out after two hours time and volt meter. If anyone is wondering how an inhibitor on a onboard battery charger work it's like this: the charger has a three prong plug on the sides you have your positives and negitives and in the centre there is one that out puts around 5-8volts the controller detects this voltage and if it's in that low range it will allow the controller to run, and if there is no power which tells the controller that it's not properly connected and will not allow the chair to move, when the charger is properly connected but plugged into the wall the wire gets a 24v single that is crossed from the positive side with that level of voltage the controller determines that the charger is plugged in and prevent the motors from engaging. So if the charger is plugged in to the wiring but not to the controller it will still charge but will not inhibit the motors from running. If you are bypassing and not using the controller while charging there won't be a charge gauge so periodically checking with a volt meter is recommended, Also I think with the controller bypassed that there isn't a automatic charging shut off but I'm not 100 on this yet. Attached to are pictures of some of the wiring.
  14. Taking a quick break from working on plans to put some gelcoat down on my neck ring moulds. I've only 20ml of catylst currently, so I thought I would do the rings and after they are done do the bin itself. Hopefully those metal bars don't upset the curing.
  15. Yesterday
  16. Hi John, I thought I'd add these to downtime to see if they were considered relevant, but if you're happy for them to go into the gallery, then I will duly go ahead and upload! Sorry I'd missed the info on auto resizing - I've not posted nay images in a while! Thanks, Scott
  17. All images are now automatically resized within topics (as I keep on saying), so there's a good chance that the text will be unreadable. We get around this by adding photos of original props to the Gallery. In this instance, I'm more than happy for these pages to be added too, at high resolution, if you wish. The instructions on how this works are posted here. (It's the same system we use to get Mechmaster's comic pages into the topic at full size).
  18. Little do they know how much they could sell, if we could get this right.
  19. Coming together nicely.
  20. @bryanxiii Hi and welcome. As cdngoose says, please start a build diary. These 'hello' threads eventually get edited and archived.
  21. At last! I get to put some time in on Clem. I turned my attention to the skirt, giving it a good coat of sanding sealer, smoothing down then hitting it with a liberal coat of spray putty and sanding in between. Getting the skirt all one colour allowed me to pick up on any imperfections and go at them with body filler, before smoothing again. I also keyed up the shoulders, ready for a splash of etch primer. Really feel like I have made some progress...And a lot of dust!
  22. Doctor Who Magazine issue 105 from 1985: Note the big red number 3 on the Dalek's dome in the last image from the first story. The images are slightly oversized, but they contain original Daleks, so may be useful for research. Cheers, Scott.
  23. I found one advert, then my research turned into a little potted history of the beginnings of SEVANS Dalek kits! Found this right at the back of Doctor Who Magazine Issue 93.. Maybe the first advert...?? Thought it was rather nostalgic... Then in issue 99 from 1985 an article by DWM on his Daleks, early days as he apologised for production struggles: Issue 103 from 1985 saw DWM give away some SEVANS Dalek kits as prizes! And then POW! Issue 105 from 1985, a full colour advert right on page 2! The kits had made it big time! Within a year the ad went form Black and white at the back, to full colour at the front! It must have been fun (but probably stressful) to be Stuart Evans back then... Hope you found this as interesting as I did! Cheers, Scott
  24. Great to see - We're off to Cardiff to visit it for the first time (before it closes) quite soon! Can't wait!
  25. here is an illustration for the assembled Arm with all parts put together, each probe is made of 3 parts, there are then 3 arms and the hub, a pulley ring behind and the Arm base and pivot.... i will be attempting to 3d print this as soon as my new roll of black arrives,
  26. Hi Bryan, I am Cdngoose the Emperor of the Canadian Dalek Empire, we will be watching your build diary closely and if need be you can contact us directly. You posted this build update in the Hello and welcome section which is a great spot to introduce yourself, I would like to suggest that you start a build Diary in the builders section and post all further updates and questions there. We all look forward to following your progress. cdngoose Emperor Canadian Dalek Empire Dalek Dreadnaught, Dalek Nyder, Dalek Emperor, Davros, Dalek Audric, Dalek Drax, Tardis, Dalek Loonie, Toonie and Fin
  27. Well Dalek Nyder had another great outing, though he still need some updates to his build he has been put to service which is why there are building posts mixed in with activities posts. This is his latest encounter whilst looking for the Doctor cdngoose
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