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  1. 6 points
    Fender has had filler applied, we managed to get the slot cut out to fit the electric wheelchair base to the bottom. Tomorrow or some time this week will essentially just be sanding, painting gluing the rubber cover and applying the blue LED strip lights. Seem it is my birthday, which means it's been four years owning this incomplete Dalek, it's about time it gets finished..
  2. 5 points
    Thanks 3Dalek! And a good prompt for me to write up more of my recent attempts to build new appendages: some efforts really quite successful, some less so. This time: the gun. I've already detailed the making of the collars, gun rods, octagons and firing mechanism. I actually did a few of these tasks twice: the spacers for the firing mechanism were originally cut from dowel, but the centre holes weren't particularly centred, so I remade them with cotton reels and overflow pipe. The silver spokes on the octagons I redid as well because I wasn't happy with my first attempt. Before assembling, I had to paint the collars, ball joint and the small ball at the end of the firing mechanism. Each received several coats of primer, Holts HSILM25 silver paint, and lacquer. The ball is beech: this received a couple of coats of spray putty to fill the wood grain prior to the silver. The shaft is made from 1.5 mm thick aluminium, rubbed down with fine wire wool, medium and fine sanding pads, and rubbing cream from Halfords. The ball joint stopped at the front by a 3mm, M3 flat-headed screw sitting in an O-ring, and held tight by a hose clip at the back. I glued the rods to the collars using epoxy resin. I cut the end off an ear stick and used the stick itself to 'twirl' glue into each hole. I still ended up overfilling some of the holes such that when I inserted the rod, the glue spilled out. My goal, given the constraints imposed by the existing components, is to make something that is 90% accurate, from the outside at least, to the "Dead Planet" daleks. This gun is perhaps only 80% accurate – the rods have sharp 90 degree bends, rather than the rounded profile of the originals, the collars are thick and broad, made of plastic, and attached to the rods with epoxy, the silver lines on the perspex mantles are a little thin, the ball is held in place with a screw stop and a clip, and the colours overall are a little off. But... I love it! It has crisp industrial heftiness that renders it a truly threatening instrument of fictional destruction...
  3. 5 points

    Version 4.7.2

    34,577 downloads

    The Dalek design which first appeared in 'Dalek' in 2005 Also known as the 'New Series Dalek Plans', this booklet was developed after extensive research and access to original screen-used props by Project Dalek Forum members. Additional notes and comments have been included to help you along with your build. The plans also include dimensions for the 'cutting claw' attachment, as seen in The Parting Of The Ways.

    Free

  4. 5 points

    Version

    193 downloads

    Presenting the Project Dalek 'Dalekalendar' 2017. Psychedelic Dreams inspired by our members' Daleks and generated using Google Deep Dream.

    Free

  5. 5 points
    Hi just been fitting strip leds into the base tonight dalek Ron looks like he's hovering now.im very pleased with the results
  6. 5 points
    Hi Guys, No build diary for this one, but I have recently finished my second dalek. Ever since I saw the 'Dead Planet' style daleks return in The Magician's Apprentice with the blue eye and blue shoulder scheme I knew immediately I must have one! So I present Dalek Ray, not a specific reproduction of either of the two TMA/TWF props, but more of a hybrid (heh) of elements between each that I preferred, plus a few personal preferences such as the eyeball looking a little closer to a '60s prop, and the 3 stage plunger arm again as with the '60s props. He was always intended to be ready for the Attack of the Daleks at the Bovington Tank Museum, and in true Ben May (me) fashion he was completed more or less the night before the first event... There are still some things i'm not quite happy with, such as the spacing between the eye discs, but this can easily be changed at any time. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. I may also post a couple of progress pics soon.
  7. 4 points
    Recent computer problems yielded a happy accident of discovery: the computer pictorial existence of my first Dalek build from 1983, Leslie the Dalek! This was built using the 1973 Radio Times plans, somewhat faithfully built to plans [though from the pictures apparently I did do two rows of balls on the sides instead of one], including the method used to make the fiberglass dome. Wish I could have gotten more than one dome out of the plaster mold, but such is life. Leslie and its companion Morton [who was built by a couple of friends at about the same time], were both named for the two popular brands of salt in our part of the US, honoring the Dalek "pepperpot" shape. The skirt was plywood with PVC pipe spars to secure the edges to with the balls all 4 inch styrofoam hemispheres coated in Hard Rock putty that sort of worked, the shoulders were sheet plastic secured to plywood top/bottom shapes with a heavy expanded metal armor, with the gun made similar to a paint roller cage. The dome was fiberglass with a pair of 80s style car indicator lamps on top. If I remember right, Leslie weighed in at 120-130 pounds. The inside sported the [then] latest in Dick Smith voice modulator kits, based on the XR2206 chip, which promised its user to sound like a Dalek, Darth Vader, or a Cylon from Star Trek! This was run through a car stereo 8-track player [somehow...] and actually worked out really well for the time! And like with the first public use of Dalek HMS, Leslie used the tried and true push button on the eyestalk method of running the dome lights. No pre-programmed light/voice circuits back in the post-Disco Age where the last word in personal computers was the Apple Lisa, neither of which were available to me then. I wish I had a picture of my favored transport method of taking Leslie about to conventions and events: the skirt was tied to a cheap rooftop rack on a '66 Dodge Dart with the head and middle parts shoehorned in the car. Leslie made appearances on both KTVU's Creature Features [with John Stanley] and on KOFY's late weekend movie show, and only hell knows if there's any videotape evidence surviving. And at one time I also had a picture of Patrick Troughton riding the back of Leslie at one of the old Timecon conventions of the 80s... Leslie's final appearance was as a haunted house display in 1989, after which it disappeared, never to be seen again [at least by me]. Probably just as well, because it would have been really difficult for me to have moved it from one storage unit to another the past almost 30 something years. Still, with what little there is I hope it will be entertaining. Leslie did get around a bit after all... it met its maker Terry Nation who kindly autographed the dome "A perfect Dalek" ...and even Daleks take time off from their mission of extermination to take in the sights overlooking The City on a typical foggy afternoon at the Golden Gate The one pic I have in my computer of Leslie with its BFF in extermination, Morton
  8. 4 points
    Hi Folks, I've found a close - if not exact -match for the perforated Neck bin movie mesh. I believe Roberts radios (particularly the R200 series) has the correct aluminium mesh. They also produced the mesh in brass but It was definitely aluminium used on the Movie props. The 'Bion' factory that produced the mesh in the 1960's (and still produces mesh for 'Roberts' radios today) isn't all that far away from where Shawcraft was based so I'm hoping there might be some connection there. The mesh they produce now for their vintage replica radios is sadly too course and is more similar to the kitchen extractor fan mesh. The mesh was also used on 60's MK2 Jaguar radio grills too, so keep an eye out if you see some. These are the Ebay listing pics but I've some more detailed ones of the mesh on my phone I'll post later. I've a sample taken from a battered 60's Roberts radio to send of to 'Bion' to see if they can replicate it. I spoke to someone at the factory and they did say I could send a sample for them to examine and see if they could replicate it. Obviously It would be cheaper in bulk and could be sold on the forum if people are interested. I've no Idea if they'll simply say we can't do it or if they'll bite, but I did state that it was from their factory and she seemed a bit more interested. I've got to drop them an email first and organise sending the mesh and we'll see what they say. Hopefully it won't be some ridiculous figure ££££ . All the best, M
  9. 4 points
    Hi folks! I'm slowly trying to render every type of Dalek, and here's how far I've got... These were made from the plans available on this site, in Softimage with post-render editing in Photoshop... Hope you enjoy, and I'd appreciate any feedback! Edit - And here's a tiny animation I made with my Dalek Invasion of Earth models...
  10. 4 points
    Being a full time wheelchair user for the last two years I feel that I can pass on some driving /operating tips. When I got my wheelchair I had to take a test believe it or not. At the back of our local hospital is a track which has got a selection of paving gradients,kerbs,slopes etc.After doing a training day and test I was amazed at how much there is to learn, and after some two years in the chair you do become quite proficient. The most important thing is keeping control in tight places and hear is the first tip, when you move the control stick practice moving it real slow until you hear the solenoid click then try to not move and then move the control stick forward slowly,this method when mastered will give you more control than just moving the control stick slowly,most wheelchair controller are set for maximum speed rather than slow speed control so give it a go.When I got my new wheel chair the engineer used his laptop computer to read the programme from my old wheelchair and copied it to the new one and as I intended to use my old wheelchair for my dalek build I know that it will respond in a way that I am used to. I know that most dalek builders will just buy a second hand wheelchair and wont get the opportunity to have the controller set up, but dont worry about this as to keep your chair under control my best advise is use the above control method and practice driving as slowly as you can before driving flat out. The next tip is grip,most wheelchairs have grey tyres this is so that they dont leave black marks on the floor when used indoors, the grey tyres dont have any carbon in them and the problem you will find is that they have little to no grip on tarmac concrete and any smooth paving, not good when you and your dalek skid out of control. The best advise is to change to tyres to black ones if you and your dalek are out on a trundle outdoors. If you cant afford the change then take it much slower when outside particularly if you are trundling on a gradient.In the main driving a wheelchair is simple but it is easy to find yourself crashing into things and a 24volt wheelchair can cause a fair amount of damage to by standers etc. Please dont think that I am trying to frighten any one, I just saying for maximum fun and minimum damage, take it slowly until you get more used to it. Happy trundling and stay safe.
  11. 4 points
    I seem to have started building another Dalek… Whilst I still haven’t got around to photographing and doing a showcase thread on my 60’s build, I’ve got the building bug again so have decided to move on to the next bunch - the 70’s Daleks. I couldn't settle on which colour scheme to do, so my plan is to build one Dalek then take it through each of the different story styles in turn. Not sure how long I’ll keep it in each colour scheme for - probably until I get bored with it. The prop I’m going to base my replica on is the one with the movie style shoulder section, “Dalek Seven-2”. I’m not sure how much of this I will be building from new, as I expect I will take some sections from my 60’s build and remodel them into 70s versions. I never intended to keep two 60's Daleks, so one skirt and dome will probably form part of this Dalek. I’ve started out by building a new neck section. I bought this blockboard years ago for use on my other build, but then opted not to use it as I (mistakenly) believed it was too thin. Turns out it would have been fine, so I’ll use it on this. This must be about the ninth or tenth neck bin I’ve made but the first time I’ve ever made it the original way, with the eight struts sunk into slots cut into the wooden circles. Previously I’d always had angled struts screwed between two complete circles like stilts. All that cutting and filing seemed like a lot extra work to me, but the end result is quite strong. There are quite a few gaps in the blockboard, so it’ll need some filling but I’m not going to aim for a perfect finish since I think the slightly distressed appearance suits the look of the 70s props. I’ve also moulded up a new shoulder section from my existing mould. Pretty much the same as last time, with 9mm plywood inserts glassed into the top and bottom. One thing I will do slightly differently this time around are the arm boxes, which will have the stepped holes which were unique to the movie style shoulders built for television. I’ll probably continue to work on just these two sections for the moment, as I want to get some decent shots of the 60’s Dalek done before I start robbing bits off them. At least this will make me finally get around to that!
  12. 4 points
    Wow! A full nine days since the last update. I've been busy with work, university, cleaning and helping out at my local cinema with the release of "The Pilot" on the weekend. I trundled around in the NDP at the cinema for a quick jpeg shot for advertising on social media, and around the patrons of the movie prior to the first screening. I found out that the three castors in the NDP were great for studio work, but on carpet with expansion joints in it, three castors made for difficult trundling. This has since been changed to a more stable four castors. I bought the aluminium for the final sucker arm on the Mk1 and I've added in the blue LED rope lights under the fender, securing the lights in with small strips of fiberglass and resin. I also found another dribble of resin from around the hemispheres on the Mk1 skirt, which has been sanded away and will be spray painted next week on my next days off. I still have to wire up the lights in dome, eye and fender. I'm thinking of sticking one of my four MartMods (or get a PDFMod) in the Mk1 with a wireless microphone system in it so I can surprise people at conventions and chat with them. The Mk2 has been finished, with the addition of some 2mm thick black rubber attached around the fender bottom. I cut many, many slots out of the same wood used to make NSD neck bin uprights, to allow the wood to bend around the curve on the front and back of the Mk2 fender. The rubber was sandwiched between the fiberglass of the fender and the wood strip behind. Some #4 dome headed slotted screws were used to secure it all together. I probably used far, far more screws than Shawcraft (or whoever made the Mk2 bottom fender) used to secure the rubber, but that's Ok, as this is my build and it work for me. It also looks good enough to my eight year old Nephew, who is my biggest critic, so that's a win...... The finished Mk2: I also use the opportunity to clean up my workshop and back storage room whilst the three Daleks were at the Cinema. I added in a lot of shelves. It is amazing to think that the moulds for the NSD's and Shawcraft Daleks take up just one shelf for each model, but the NDP moulds take up three shelves. Big buggers. Six Daleks in the back room and another four in the now much cleaner workshop, awaiting some attention. I'll finish off the Mk1 next day off, which is ANZAC Day.
  13. 4 points
    Day 13: I've started the building of the neck and I must say that I expected it more complicated. On a sheet of plywood from 0.50 mm I've marked the circles of the neck and I've cut them. To give the right shape to the side, I've used the sander after fixing the circles one over the other with the help of bolts Then, I've cut the internal part and I've done the holes for the supports with the help of a rasp. For the supports, I've used a wooden strip from 1cm, where I cut the inserts for circles I've used the clamps to keep the right distance between the circles while I've positioned the supports And this is the final result: Next time I'll cut the remnants of glue and I'll build the details of the neck!
  14. 4 points
    I still do it from my front porch. It gave the neighbours something to talk about for the next week, at least. I'm waiting on the local rubber supplier to get in the needed rubber for the Mk2 fender, it should be here by Thursday. I also need to go the aluminium supplier for the tubing for the Mk1 sucker arm, but I can't be bothered to go there, when it is just down the road from the rubber place, and they are both about a 30 minute drive away. The aluminium can wait until Thursday too...... I attached the sucker cup arm and assembled the other gun for the Mk2. I will peel off the stickers on the gun octagons at some date in the future (knowing me, it'll never happen). Two Daleks are now nearly finished, with just the collars on the Mk1 to fix up where they join front and back, and to make the gun for it. I also attached the antenna dish at the back of the Mk2 today. Simply fixed in place with two self tapping screws from inside the shoulders. I like the look of it and am secretly pleased that the old vacuum tube has "Made in Australia" on it. Those were the days....... I also like the texture on the back of the Mk2 antenna dish from the fiberglass used. I reckon it looks like the texture behind the antenna domes in pictures of the original props.
  15. 4 points
    Day 8 and 9: I have started to add details of the shoulder, a very long job at the end of which I had the whole glue on my fingers! First of all I finished the gun box adding the hole for their aim and I have pasted it with the shoulder. Then I started to cut a lot of wood strips, fixing them in the right positions. At the end of this long process, I covered everything with the paper wood With the help of sandpaper I improve edges and for the most difficult parts, the drill helped me And this is the final result! Next time, I need to find a way to plug the holes...maybe with some plaster
  16. 4 points
    2016 saw the gun and sucker arm finally built. I originally had steel rods and two copper sleeves, but the person who was to do the welding for me said steel and copper won't weld very good so I had to get 8 brase rods instead. Then came more coats of paint, wiring for the dome lights and a new wooden wheel base. Last but not lest a second hand power wheel chair which was broken and had to be fixed. This project is approaching completion some mistakes crept in during construction. My engineering skills are limited. It may not be 100 percent correct but I am happy with it Well this takes me up to the post I made on the 7th February 2017 with the Pride Power wheel chair and the problems I have had with that.
  17. 4 points
    I didn't do much today. It is my Birthday and the last day of my days off. I went out for a steak dinner and watched "Life" at a pre-screening. I go back to work tomorrow. I did manage to fit a single set of collars to the shoulders. It is a surprisingly difficult task. The 2mm aluminium seemed like a great idea when I was getting it laser cut - nice and thick, resistant to bumps and people trying to break them. The thickness also makes them pretty unforgiving when trying to fit them around the curve of the shoulders. After several hours, and a couple of new holes needing to be drilled through the spacers, the collars were fitted to the Mk1 shoulders. The collars were fitted with a large dome-headed bolt at the front and back. They were just simply tightened to buggery until they held the two halves of the collar firm to the spacer. These large heads were covered with a roughly 35mm wide strip of 1mm thick aluminium. This thin aluminium was really difficult to cut cleanly with the snips I had on hand and my mate suggested I try his guillotine used for cutting paper and card. It worked a treat! The aluminium strip was bent by hand over an offcut piece of 2mm collar aluminium, placed in the right spot, then the bottom part of the strip was bent around and under the collar. I then squished the thin aluminium around the bolt head. I'm not happy with the look of the front of the collars, and I might revisit these parts later. Those are Pauls' hairy legs. Not mine. Fitting the neck bins to the neck rings would have been easy, had I left more meat on the top of the shoulders, however, I cut the top of the shoulders to the inside diameter of the bottom neck ring. Stupid. So I cut some 6mm MDF squares on the laser and routed out a 6mm deep section of the bottom of the neck rings and glued them in. It was here that I realised that if I glued them all in, I wouldn't be able to fit the neck rings in later. Yeah..... The newly glued parts were pulled apart and the neck bin fitted. The 6mm MDF was then glued back into place. This does mean that I won't be able to remove the neck bins at a later date, without cutting the support pieces. I'll need to sand the bottom ring before it can be fitted. You might also be able to see the two 12.5mm wood dowel pegs I'm going to use to secure the neck rings onto the shoulders. The weight of the dome, bin and neck rings should keep it all in place.
  18. 4 points
    Thanks very much, guys! I think the one with the lower collar in grey should have the traditional eyestalk, yeah. This one still has its old Imperial eye as I haven't got round to changing it yet!
  19. 4 points
    Here's a summary of some of the things I've done over the last few weeks. First, I dry assembled the gun, using a plastic Christmas decoration filled with foam as a temporary ball joint. The goal here was to work out whether I preferred the rods and collar butted up against the ball joint, or the tip of the gun. I think I've decided I'll actually situate them halfway between, with a few millimeters of barrel between the rear collar and ball, and an equal amount between the front collar and the tip of the barrel. My preference is to leave the barrel and rods unpainted, so I rubbed them down with fine wire wool and rubbing compound. Hopefully this will complement whatever silver I end up spraying the collars and ball – if not, I'll spray the whole thing. I enquired on another thread as to whether to use a flat spade bit or a forstner bit to drill out the wooden balls I have for the gun and arm ball joints. With one vote for each, I let the friend whose pillar drill I was using have the deciding say – and he suggested forstner. So I bought a couple of Planet Long Series forstner bits, and today drilled out those holes. I used one of the old resin inner brackets to help brace the balls. Drilling all the way through, I splintered the exit holes a little, and a couple of the screws holding the frame together grazed the balls – but nothing a little filler can't fix. I was unhappy with the original eye stalk, but liked the eyeball itself, which was another solid resin piece. So I took a saw to the thing: With the eyeball separated from the shaft, I've started to rub it down. I bought an old Dansette wooden leg, and experimented with 32mm diameter acrylic: as I reported elsewhere, 4mm thick acrylic fits nicely around the leg, whereas 3mm thick acrylic is too loose. And finally, I started on the eye pivot, using 1 x 18mm and 2 x 6mm MDF. Lots of sealer and sanding. The plan here is to drill a 15mm diameter hole in the flat face, and sink and glue a couple of nuts so that the Dansette leg can be screwed in.
  20. 4 points
    Bit of a delayed response, but thank you Simon for the detailed images and measurements. Very useful, and very interesting in their own right. I'm convinced more than ever that I would like to reproduce the wooden gun boxes of the early Shawcraft props, but I'm going to delay a little – it feels like a warm weather project. What I have been doing over the last week or so is making the firing mechanism. I'd started this some time before Christmas, but wasn't happy with the leaves or the wooden inserts, which I'd cut from dowel. Cleaning up the leaves, and cutting a sixth one (I originally planned on having five till Simon pointed out the early props had six), I though I'd push ahead, but knowing that I'm rarely satisfied, and will likely want to tinker in the future, decided to make a mechanism that can be easily disassembled. Here's what I came up with: The bushes are made from cotton reels and short lengths of white overflow pipe. The head has a nut glued to it, thereby allowing the leaf section to be replaced. The leaf core is made from the cutdown nozzle from an old tube of sealant, with a smaller cotton reel glued inside to accept the aluminium rod, and a bolt to attach it to the first cotton reel. This is the test assembly: And here's what it looks like in the gun barrel: By sitting the ball quite a bit forwards (when retracted the leaves just lightly grip the ball), I think it will give the round tip effect you see in some of the early photos, where with the firing mechanism retracted you really only see the ball sitting at the mouth of the barrel (the aluminium rod still needs to be trimmed, and the ball painted, of course) :
  21. 4 points
    I don't believe there were any shoulders in the 60s that were over 13" tall, nor did they have 6" high boxes. They just look way too big. I do think there is a bit of variation of the size. I'm not home until the weekend but I do have access to a couple of my 3D models on my laptop. The measurements will be a couple of mm undersized because I have chamfered the corners of the models. The leftmost is a model of Dalek 1. It's gun boxes were the first I modeled and so were done pure by reference to photos. They may be slightly too narrow. I believe those boxes are a few mm taller than the other boxes (hence needing the thinner collar). The middle boxes are Dalek 6-5's. These were modeled from measurements that were kindly given to me from the Tussauds Dalek. The boxes had been replaced in the 70s so they might be wider than they once were. The rightmost shoulders are from Dalek 2 and were modeled directly from a cast of a movie shoulder section that I used to make the moulds for my own Daleks. I can't measure my own yet as I am not home until the weekend, but I would be tempted to make the boxes something like 140mm high and 460-470mm wide, with 90 degree angles on all sides. I also found a couple more photos of how I modified my boxes. After cutting out the shoulders, I used an old pizza box covered in sticky back plastic cut to fit and waxed on the shiny side. I then smeared filler in from the back and when that set I smoothed it off with a dremel and added a layer of fibreglass in behind it. I used filler rather than gelcoat as I didn't want any of it leaking around the front. Seemed to work okay and give a decent enough finish after sanding. You should easily be able to do the mod like this using a tub of filler and a cheap Halfords fibreglass kit. It's more of a repair than a moulding job. Not that there is anything wrong with using the movie boxes as they are, that is to say. All the best, Simon
  22. 3 points
    I think the parts were part of the Genesis build started by @Fenris The bare GRP looks familiar and I'm reasonably certain that I may have made that dome. Did it come with 56 push-through hemispheres, in through-pigmented balck GRP? If so, I made those too. David lived just up the road from me and we collaborated on projects... me doing bits of dalek for him and him doing voice mod and electronics stuff for me. It's a pity he's no longer around. He was a valued member and a great electronics mod.
  23. 3 points
    The start to this Dalek has begun! So, first thing I've done (and many pictures will be coming soon) I picked up an electric wheelchair through Craigslist for $80 USD. Perfect starting point, for me. Since then, I've taken out my construction paper and began drawing out the shape of the fender along with markings for the placement of the skirt to get a decent idea of what space I have for placing the base around the frame of the wheelchair. Next phase, removing the plastic parts from the wheelchair base, cleaning up all the frame/wheels to make a decent starting point. Next, will begin cutting out the fender base and frame, adjusting to fit, where necessary. With the wheelchair, I had to throw out the actual seat, as much as I would have loved to be able to use it in the actual build, the seat had been taken off and used for a go-kart by the original owner, who beat up and destroyed the chair in order to make it fit his little kart. So, instead of wasting days trying to repair it, I'll just build one to sit in the dalek specifically, probably attacked to the framing of the skirt, if not directly to the wheelchair itself. I am expecting the biggest challenge to be with getting the fender attached to the wheelchair frame, as I'd rather not dismantle all of it and mess everything up. This is still an option, but, as the frame I have fits perfectly inside the Dalek framework with plenty of space for the wheels, I'm hesitant to take it that far, instead possibly looking at the LED track lighting underneath to disguise the height difference. I'll post pictures of my hoveround tonight, with the construction paper frame underneath, for context.
  24. 3 points
    Well l am back. Life has changed for me in a big way. I am now confined to a wheelchair but with the top half of my body unaffected i am still able to carry on building biff. So keep a watch on this space as new progress on biff is due in the next couple of weeks.
  25. 3 points
    @Ferrain, sorry to hear about the keyboard but it is quite clearly stated in the small print (translated into swahili and encoded in binary in the first 32 pixels of each frame) that Mechmaster is not liable for damage to keyboards/monitors as a result of readers eating/drinking while viewing the comic. This week Old Wolma comes out of his shell a bit, or at least out of somebody's shell, in fact shells are something of a theme in this episode. OF COURSE Grexzol tried to talk to the Mechonoid, anyone who didn't see that one coming, please go sit at the back of the class.
  26. 3 points
    Slow slow and slower. Work has gone to a crawl this month due to work commitments. I'm hoping more will be done soon, but for now I've finished painting the neck bin and started work on the eye pivot disc. This was made from two 4 inch circles of 12mm MDF and a 5 mm centre piece of MDF. All sandwiched together with 2 x 1 inch screws and Gorilla glue. I held it all together temporarily with an M6 nut and bolt, this will also be used later for holding the disc in my pillar drill when I sand it smooth. I also sealed the edge with neat PVA the help close up the cut end of the MDF. Anyway I hope I can pick up pace again in my when my work dies down a bit.
  27. 3 points
    Hmm the Death Daleks do have that double fender look, silver over black, so i think it will look ok. In this pic the full fender with the rubber appears to be the same height as from the bottom of the skirt to midway between the two bottom hemis. I think your final height will be close to that to, so should look fine. I'm not 100% happy with the way I did my rubber trim, attaching it to the inside of the fender rather than the outside. At least one screen Genesis has it in the inside but I think it would have looked better outside (maybe something else to tinker with!)
  28. 3 points
    Finally got round to starting after years of thinking about it, made the dome plug and now waiting for it to dry so I can sand it smooth. In the meantime spent Sunday marking out the skirt panels on 3mm mdf and the skirt frame on 12mm plywood. Wife's working late tomorrow so will spend the evening in the garage without feeling guilty for neglecting her!
  29. 3 points
    Been a couple of weeks - Hi all. Still plugging away with the shoulders. More sanding and shaping. Have given it a coat of Spray Putty. This brings out a lot of little imperfections that I have missed, which I knew it would. I will go back over and fill these in and give the whole lot a good sand with a high grit. Some of the edges are slightly messy - doesn't really show in the photos. I do want to rough him up a bit to look a bit battle worn. I need to start finishing off and fitting the slats. Cheers.
  30. 3 points
    Yet another day doing the fiddly bits, but the end is in sight soon. The ping pong ball dome lights had a 4mm bolt superglued onto the top of the ball. When this was dry, a small amount of polyurethane was carefully poured into the silver surround that makes up the bottom of the "light" to secure the bolt, the base and the ball together. I didn't fully fill the bases to allow for the curve of the dome underneath the lights. After the polyurethane had cured for 20 minutes, I drilled a hole in the polyurethane and into the ping pong ball and inserted a couple of warm white super bright LED lights. Even though these are to be static displays, I am hoping in the future that I can make or buy some sort of electronic system that will be triggered by the presence of people in front of each Dalek and have it scream Dalek obscenities at them, hence the need for the dome light to be able to flash. If anyone has an idea, let me know..... I bolted the dome lights inside the domes and bolted in the eyestalks into the fiberglass brackets, made with the off cut pieces from cutting out the hemisphere holes in the skirt. It *does* make some alarming creaks and groans as the bolt is tightened down onto the eyestalk pivot. As these are static displays, no effort was made to allow movement of the eyestalks and the pivot bolt was tightened down as far as it could go, fixing the eyestalks in place. The Dome pivot disc was also glued in with a run of silicone around the edge. this should be secure enough to stop it lifting off, but allow me to remove it later by running a knife around the edge, should I ever need to. The holes are big enough to let me access the dome light LED's and the eyestalk light power cords if I ever need to. It was about here that a certain elderly black cat decided to steal the chair I was using. Onto the guns.. I tried to make up a jig to help bend all the wire (coat hangers from Target) so that they were bent consistently. I cut the holes for the bolts on the laser and captured the bolt heads in a 6mm layer of MDF with a hole cut out for the bolt heads. This hole in the 6mm MDF was filled with polyurethane resin and the bolts were sandwiched by another layer of 9mm MDF and PVA glue. The jig was only partially successful, and I ended up altering it a bit with the aid of an angle grinder to remove two bolts. Each wire part took about a minute to bend up into the required shape, and surprisingly, they all came out exactly the same. It surprise the heck out of me...... The gun assembled and ready to paint. The little pieces of paper on the Gun octagons will be removed when the paint has cured. I might see if a chrome coloured paint would look better than the aluminium paint. I'll remove the little bits of paper on the gun octagons when the paint has had time to dry. An almost finished Mk3. I only have the sucker cup to attach. I'm not going to add the other two smaller diameter tubes to the arms, as there will be no one inside the Daleks to extend them and it will reduce the risk of some little bastard breaking them. There is a piece of 25mm dowel glued in with araldite into the end of the sucker cup arm for the cup to screw into. Sorry about the large amount of pictures.
  31. 3 points
    Here is a picture of the gun octagons with most of the paper removed. When spray painted, I'll remove the remaining paper and the lines will be silver and the areas under the paper will be clear. (Just realised I'm one octagon short - each Dalek gun needs three octagons. Bugger)
  32. 3 points
    Well another week and another update, managed to get some work done on this over the weekend, and I think I have eliminated the need to go the 3D printing route I just continued with my forming technique and I think its working out better than the first time. First of all the eye piece, I started with a smaller piece of clay to form it out gradually, instead of lamping a load on and twisting, which generally just broke all my supports: And after a good while turning I came out with this: Not too shabby, There will be a lot of clean up when I pop the resin on these but I had that figured from the very beginning, getting a base form is all I am worried about with these so to my eyes, this is working out perfectly! Onwards to more odd shapes and forms, the good old plunger: And the plug for the plunger: This last piece will go inside the mold for the plunger and make that distinctive inner shape. Speaking of inner shapes, I turned my attention back onto the dome I created last week. I turned out the main form for the plug for the dome, then went about detailing it in places there I will need to hollow the resin, and have some supports for the eye stalk, So I added come approximately 5mm blobs where the bulbs will be going. and carved out supports for the eye stalk, do the resin in the outer dome mold will flow into the supports: I then make another form to give me a channel for the eye stalk to go into, the resin will therefore be thicker around the eye stalk supports and thinner at the actual eye stalk position and the bulb positions: Last bit of forming was for the neck rings. I made the basic shape as described here and then used the Olfa compass cutter to carve out the inner circles, as these are fairly thick at 1/6 scale I didn't want to go cutting out tons of circles and then have to cut a 45 degree angle around the edges, this just seemed like the best solution, and they came out pretty good: On to some casting and I Popped some resin into the outer dome form mold, then I positioned and placed the inner form to it, hopefully thinning and thickening where I needed: My positioning was a little off with the inner dome form and I needed to do a little sludge mold inside as it was too thin on the top of the dome, but a good bit of clean up here should see me right, and I will have proper positions for all the bits and bobs: A lot of cleaning to do but I'm really getting there as far as the odd shapes go. So next is to mold out the remaining shapes (I got some more molding silicone to do just that, but I'm not sure I got enough to do everything, will have to see.) After that its all Styrene and bits for this build.
  33. 3 points
    Day 8: Goodmorning everyone! it's time to clad the front part of the shoulders, to do this I thought I'd start building the gun box and how to fix them. For now I have not yet glue it to the base, but I created some supports in order to know what will be their proper position. The most difficult part was to cut the paper-wood in the right form, in particular the holes for the gun box : they have been fatal! After long-troubled, this is the final result, with and without gun box: And this is my growing Dalek, i love it Next time I'll try to finish the shoulders with all details!
  34. 3 points
    Some more progress to report! I've been doing some more painting and the skirt and fender are pretty much complete now. Unfortunately my iPhone camera makes things look a little out of proportion in these photos but you get the idea! Hemis going in, On to the shoulders next! Hux
  35. 3 points
    Thank you to everyone for the support ! Day 7: This Saturday was so productive! I've started to do the shoulders and it was surprisingly less difficult than expected. As for the skirt, the most complicated part is to make aligned the two bases, but with the help of an spirit level (I hope that is the right name! however, it is the object in the picture below) everything went as expected. The plans is not so clear for this part, yours builders progress diaries are a great help! I took many ideas from these. I've cut the bottom and the upper of the shoulders and the support, then I've fixed all together in the right form. Then I've clad the back of it with some "wood-paper" as in the photos. look how it look fantastic with the skirt!! Before to clad part in front I have to think about how to put the gun box...by the way, I would like that the weapons are moving ... but I would not know how! Any ideas??
  36. 3 points
    Rusell, I agree with the hemis looking like LP spirals. Oh the memories. The orange came out a darker than expected which compliments the blue nicely. I still think the General Lee and Tardis had an accident in the time vortex. If you are 3D printing red hemis beware of the top of the hemi as it is darker and would be perfect for a breast cancer dalek. lol Ferrain, today (April 1st) is electronics day. I should have some video of the Martmods later. March 31st con't...mom told me about these pics this morning. The back of the skirt is attached to the base. Lots of room and why the wheelchair was stripped to the wheels and motor. Front skirt attaches to the back skirt using 4 earth magnets on each side. Very sturdy and requires a good pull to separate. Shoulders mounted. This time last year Jr was Shorter than this on his tippy toes. Hurray for growth spurts! All assembled and still seated. Having fun using his hands at the plunger and gun. :-)
  37. 3 points
    Day 5: Yesterday was a very funny moment: I wanted to plug the many holes, for this I used some plaster ( I hope this is the right name...) and I covered all the skirt of my Dalek. While the plaster dries, waiting to be sanded, I've begin to think about the front of the skirt. Not having much time, I've just cut some pieces that now are on my table ready to be assembled! I hope today to find some time to sanding the Dalek. I can not wait to complete the skirt
  38. 3 points
    Day 4: First of all, Thank to everybody for the support! Yesterday I've fix the panels of the behind skirt, I've just a little difficulty with the measures because things have not gone according to plan.. but imaginatively it's alright! I've change idea about the painting because watching your daleks I've decided to do the skirt black too. Knowing me, I'll change the colour a lot of times, for this it's better to remand the painting as I have clear ideas The next step is the panels of the front skirt. I'd like to do this openable...We'll see how it turns out!
  39. 3 points
    Today i tried to start on the ear cages, but the waterjet cut aluminum struts were not consistent or accurate, so I have given up in this idea and will instead attempt to lasercut MDF ear cages and then paint them a metallic color. After that fiasco, I decided to attach the bulb holders to my dome and tidy up the dome wiring. These terminal blocks make wiring a breeze. The capacitor on the leads going to the dome lights ensures a gradual fade off, similar to incandescent bulbs. And finally, all assembled. Not too bad.
  40. 3 points
    One of the highlights of the weekend was getting to meet Sean Pertwee. As we trundled over to meet another celebrity Sean came out and asked for pictures with the Daleks. We didn't even approach him it was all a bit surreal how it happened. cdngoose
  41. 3 points
    I've been away from home quite a bit the last few weeks, and only get to do a little work now and then, but in that time I've built up a backlog of little accomplishments – and setbacks. Over the next few days I'll try and write them all up. Eyestalk The man at the hardware store at the bottom of the road took one look at the short thread on my old Dansette leg and immediately found me a few nuts to fit. These I sank into the body of the pivot through the flat face, and secured with epoxy resin. The leg now screws in wonderfully flush to the face. Eyeball next. Having sanded it, I drilled and countersunk a hole through the centre of the face so as to allow the narrow end of the eyestalk to be screwed in on the inside. The hole in the back of the eyeball for the original eyestalk was 1 inch in diameter; the replacement wooden leg is much narrower at this point. To fill the hole and grip the leg, I cut and sanded a couple of pieces of plastic tubing that sit inside one another to form an inner sleeve. I was planning to glue these inside the eyeball, and fill the gap around the outside edge, but I've since decided against fixing them permanently. Wherever possible, I'm attempting to make everything easy to disassemble, just in case... If I modify the dalek in the future to represent a more recent model, I may want to replace the tapered eyestalk with a straight tube, at which point the original hole will come in useful. By placing a 4 inch piece of clear acrylic tube over the leg, and seeing at what point along the leg's length the tube sat nice and snug, I was able to mark the point on the narrower end of the leg that would emerge from the eyeball. Allowing for the height of a single nut, I then calculated how much of the leg I would have to cut off for it to sit against the inside face of the eyeball. I cut the leg, drilled a 4mm diameter hole in the end, and glued a nut over the top. Lastly, I cut black and white sections for the front of the eyeball from 1mm thick plasticard. For the blue disks, I purchased 9 pre-cut from Craig, but they're currently packed away, to avoid them being scuffed. I did briefly try them with the acrylic tube, and they fit perfectly – I don't think there'll be a need to glue them. Dome Lights These were the very first things I made, but after seeing the photos of them attached to the dome, I felt the collars were far too tall. So I sanded then down. Then, borrowing from moviedalek's approach to creating replaceable dome lights, I cut a couple of inner discs from plasticard, and glued a pair of M3 bolts to each so that they can be attached to a bulb holder on the inside of the dome.
  42. 3 points
    Received a fresh supply of 220 Ohm resistors, and built up 4 more of what I'm calling the UNO MOD. Here they are with the test system, including automotive turn signal LEDs for the dome lights, and a blue automotive dash light for the tip of a gun. All seems to be working well.
  43. 3 points
    Another little update! Most of the texturing is done now, but I still need to fine-tune several bits and work on reflection and specular maps. I've had a fun time with this guy this weekend.
  44. 3 points
    If you just want to play sounds at the press of a button, check these out. I have two on their way to play with. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222194846403?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT We are doing it with a Raspberry Pi on K-9 as well. He sits there and plays random audio files stored on the memory card. Al did the code for that.
  45. 3 points
    Hi Jonathan. Let me tell you, when I started my Dalek I have very little DIY experience, plus I made my Daleks with only basic tools. The only power tool I had was an electric drill. You can still make a great looking Dalek. Basically you learn on the job! My advice is: 1) Pick the style of Dalek you want to make. (The old Daleks are easier to make than the new ones.) 2) Read as many build diaries as you can relating to the build you want to attempt. 3) Be patient, Take it one stage at a time & don't rush. (Maybe start at the bottom & work up.) 4) Take lots of photos so we can all follow your progress! Good luck. Russell
  46. 3 points
    It's interesting though that the original TV props didn't sport this mesh before the company was established which again suggests a likely link. I imagine Shawcraft wouldn't have told them what the mesh was for they probably saw it on either a car or portable radio and said 'Oh! thats the new mesh that factory, a few miles down the road, makes. we'll ask if we can by any spare off them' (as you can tell i've been predicting what conversations were like in the 60's for a long time ). Still haven't sent the email or the sample off to them yet. Appologies. I've a mountain of Daleky things to catch up on and I'm in that state where you dread having to do any of them lol.
  47. 3 points
    Merry Christmas. As always, I appreciate everyones comments. It keeps me motivated. Thanks guys. Continuing with the shoulders over the last week and a bit. I added the thin strips of cladding that run along the top of the gun/arm boxes as well as some small pieces to smooth off where the first layer of cladding meets the side of the boxes. Then I added the spaces for the outer layer of cladding and left to dry over night. Then it was the same process of making some paper templates, transferring and cutting out the shape on the MDF, soak it in the bath for approximately 20 minutes and glue and pin in place. Once the glue had set, I sanded down the bottom edge. Using a course grain to begin with and then making it flush with a finer grade to finish it off. I then re-marked the lines and trimmed the top edge, once again using a tenon saw. Time for clean up. Over the time of the build there was an accumulation of glue squeeze out, many different pencil marks and general grime. Took a little time to punch in some of the brad nails, scrape/cut away glue squeeze out and a light sand with a fine grade paper. Before: After: I also touched up some of the edges of the cladding with a file. There were a couple of high spots. Decided to get all components out for a couple of stack shots (and take it for a little spin around the garage). Once I had my fun it was foam time. Cheers.
  48. 3 points
    Thank you John for the link to the image. A couple of weeks ago I ordered some laser cut gun mantles using monkeytennis' wonderful templates. Yesterday, they were delivered, so this evening I decided to make the gun rods and add spokes to the mantles. The gun rods are made from 12" aluminium rods from a local hobby shop. To bend them, I made the simplest jig I could. First, I measured the distance from the inner hole on one of the laser cut mantles to the notch where the rod will sit. Then I drilled a hole to the same depth in a piece of wood. Using the jig, I was able to bend the rods by hand, first along the long surface of the wood, and then turning the rod around, and bending it against the short surface, to achieve a 90 degree bend. With the rods bent, I quickly assembled the gun: sleeves, rods and mantles. No glue at this stage, but it all hangs together quite snugly. The rods bow out a little from the mantles at the moment, but this may be because I've set the sleeves too close together. Overall, however, I'm very pleased with the result so far. For the mantle spokes, I'm using silver 3 mm pin stripe coachline tape. It's slow work, and I only had time to do one octagon this evening. I've put tape on the outer, laser cut edge of the acrylic, but because of the slightly ridged texture there, I've a feeling it may peel off. We'll see over the next few days.
  49. 3 points
    It is an engineering drawing shorthand for hole diameter.
  50. 3 points
    This is a great sites, I will be starting my build soon.