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Showing content with the highest reputation since 28/01/17 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So, John Darley, I think I owe you a big drink. I re-did all the dodgy slats today using both the washers and the suggestion of weakening the rivet mandrel rod (which I did using the cutty bit of a pair of electrical pliers). A few bulbs went shooting off over into next doors garden, but I got the knack pretty quickly (about 5-6 moderate squeezes seemed about right). I had *no* fractures at all. None. At least, not caused by the rivets. Not even on the dreaded centre rear slat. I did notice that some slats had numerous micro-fractures around the pre-drilled holes already, but even those held out. I drilled all slats for 3.2mm, exactly the same size diameter as the rivet, reasoning that the washer would deal with the expansive pressure, whilst the weakened mandrel would reduce the compression on the slat - and the more slat surface area there is, the more the pressure is evenly distributed. I used 10mm rivets for all holes except for the rear slat where I opted for a 12mm rivet to deal with the extra depth. I also used metal cutters to ensure that the sections of mesh didn't overlap but met evenly under the respective slats. Incidentally, if you fiddle too much with getting the slat into position, the washer can make a circular mark on the back of the slat as it wears the paint. I noticed exactly such a circular mark on a Dalek slat when browsing pictures from Dalek Master Plan tonight, so I reckon Shawcraft must have used some washers too. All in all, quite a pleasant job (now it's actually working) but time consuming drilling out all the old slats. I later fitted the antennae, and the shoulder section is complete! I recently discovered that the antennae balls are a touch over the 4" I'd requested, so they are catching a little on the bolts that hold them in place. I'm not really that concerned, I'll let them wear away for a month or two, then pull them out, sand them down and repaint. That being done, I couldn't resist a little test fit of all the sections! (Bear in mind the dome is sitting directly on top of the neck, the wheels will raise it a bit).
  2. 4 points
    I'm going Spray painting is the easy bit. Just use acrylic paints, as they are much more forgiving. Painting Day! I used the following colours to paint the parts: Septone Jet Black RAL 7001 Silver Grey Ford Olympic Blue Hyundai Moist Silver (OK, probably not anywhere near screen accurate, but the name tickled my fancy) I sprayed some of the fiberglass hemis in Ford Olympic blue. They are a little rough and will need a bit of bog and sanding. Although I really don't mind a few blemishes, as like for me, they add character. I still really don't know how I'm going to attach them yet. I finally figured out what I was doing wrong with the neck bins. I re-drew the bottom bin part and shrunk it a little and then cut out all three bins in around an hour. I'll need to make up the eyestalk pivot pieces to go on the rotation disc. A few hours of painting and they were almost finished by the end of the day. The Mk2 needs the skirt panels masked off and painted black to make it a Saucer Commander. The Mk3 with the black skirt is going to be a Supreme (my third Supreme Dalek) and the Mk1 is the blue shouldered Dalek from The Witches Familiar. The colours appear much darker in the photos than in real life, due to being in shade. The RAL 7001 Silver Grey is a lovely colour, slightly lighter than the Septone Grey Undercoat, with a very light blue undertone. Zacky sat and watched me paint most of the day. I cannot wait for the Shoulder Collars and Slats to be laser cut for me. I pick them up next week and will then have to think about the bolts, mesh and pop rivets.
  3. 3 points
    So thanks to cdngoose for updating my build diary for me. It's really worth having another person in the workshop to catch those moments when you're otherwise occupied with sticky resin. I just wanted to elaborate on the method I used to measure the Fiberglass mat for cutting. I had some glass veil which is a tissue-like fiberglass cloth. It's very pliable and easy to see through. I just offered this up against the inside of the mould, and traced the features using a sharpie. This was then cut out with scissors. Here is is my stack of patterns ready to go. I numbered them according to the skirt panel. The patterns were layed onto the Fiberglass mat, and traced using the sharpie. I made two of each section, a 1oz (300gsm) and 1.5oz (450gsm) piece. Thanks again to cdngoose for lending me some of his 1oz cloth, as mine ran out fast. Each piece was numbered so I could keep track of everything. Here are a couple of atfermath shots. Finally, I have to say a big thank you to Mrs. cdngoose for feeding me a lovely dinner! These two are the most welcoming couple of people I've met. They give a lot of themselves for the benefit of others, and I really admire that. (I can almost hear cdngoose's eyes rolling, so I'll end it here).
  4. 3 points
    Apologies for neglecting this thread! We've moved on a little bit. We got some foam balls from the internet, and they took a LONG time to paint, about four coats of blue paint, after we primed them with PVA and water. It takes a long time for a three year old to paint so many balls over so many coats. We then made the collars. We made them out of layered cornflakes boxes, two boxes layed flat and glued together. Then PVAed them on both sides, and then painted them black, then white to remove the text, then silver. We then made 18 and 12mm spacers, and glued the collars one. Then painted the shoulders. The neck rings took a while. They are made from two layers of corrugated card, with 64 spacers in between. The Bottom layer of card goes out to the full extent of the ring, then the top layer jumps into the the routed dimension. Then there are something like 480 pieces of tape (try getting a toddler to cut and place nearly 500 pieces of tape over a week.) We then primed them with three coats of black. Then marked up the 8th positions (I did that) and we used a pencil to 'drill' the hole through the rings for the 'trefoil'. Then used scissors to cut the back out. Then the whole assembly was hot glued together. Then painted grey, and finally has had as coat of silver put on it. The treofoil is made from three drinking straws hot glued together. It needs another coat of silver. The gun is made from a Christmas ball, with a 16mm dowel in it, with two rings of 20mm aluminum pipe at the beginning and end, I used a pipe cutter for that, as I did for the eye. Not especially dangerous, but saved faffing about. This needs rods put on it still, I'll probably use old coat hangers when I find some. We need to find 1" polypipe for the arm, something suitable for the lights, rework the wheels, get the dome rotating working, then get the slats and mesh on. But she's done a good job, and her interest in it has varied a lot over the last few months.
  5. 3 points
    Hi all. Back at it. I haven't had the motivation since christmas until early this week. I'm still working on the shoulders. I cleaned up all the excess foam and started with the filler. I have shaped and achieved most of the edges I'm after and I have given it a good sand with some 80 grit wet and dry and a lot of elbow grease. I'm quite happy with how it looks so far. I'm now up to touch ups with filler and sanding with finer grits. It a big job and from here on I will be a bit more methodical by working on and completing a section before moving onto the next. Not much else to report apart from finally finding something suitable to use for the lens cover on the eye. I piece of opaque plastic from an old toy that was being thrown out. It fitted perfectly - as if it was meant to be! I'm thinking on starting the slats so I have something else to do when I need a break from sanding. Cheers.
  6. 3 points
    Success I now have my first skirt. However I made it a lot thicker than I needed to. It is almost the same weight as a wooden skirt. But no matter it is very strong and looks fantastic. this is a start of removing the skirt. The upper and lower wood pieces just lifted right off. Then I started by inserting the small wedges. POP the first side just popped out I have never seen a mould this big pop off so easily. so far it looks great the lines are strong and have a great shape. a few more longer wedges and the other side popped off. Wow that was really easy! Next up to remove the shoulders from the modified mould. Wonder how this is going to turn out. Well it is better than expected. Once again I went a little heavy on the shoulders but they look fantastic and the mould modifications worked exactly as I had desired. But I didn't take any pictures of the shoulders coming out of the mould, really didn't need to as you have seen it before in previous postings. I did in in fact take pictures of my first official stack up. I am giddy at the results. These pieces are great looking and I can't get over how fast doing this method produces such great results. now if if your only building one Dalek this is definitely not the way to go due to time of making moulds and cost for all the materials. But if your building a Dalek empire then this method is very hard to beat! I have plans for another ten Daleks over the next few years. I highly doubt I will ever do three at once again. But it is nice to know I can at any time. Cdngoose
  7. 3 points
    So after months of waiting and a little planning I finally started on my Dalek! I do not know how many do this but I decided to start with some "mini" projects, like the voice mod and such, first to get me going. I have almost finished my voice mod and once it is complete will begin on the eye and eye stalk with closing and opening iris! Very new to this so any tips, advice, and help are extremely welcomed! Especially with the dome, right now it is the most intimidating part of this build since it is so far out of my wheelhouse. Anyone who really has this down could definitely use pointers video heck anything! Cheers!
  8. 3 points
    I use a floor stand fan, bought really cheaply at the local hardware store (about AUD$15) blowing through the skirt mould towards me as I lay up the fiberglass. I still use a respirator and the fan does cool down the resin and retard the curing, but seeing as though the temperature does not usually go below 20 degrees Celsius even in the winter, that slowing down of the gel time isn't a bad thing. I also used to cut out all the shapes of the panels out of fiberglass mat using cheap scissors prior to glassing up. I have since found the laser can cut fiberglass really well and I now use that. Cutting the mat to the shape of the panels saves a lot of time glassing up, as does using a cheap 100mm wide roller brush, which uses more resin, but is really quick for glassing up and getting out the bubbles. I also use a cheap plastic paint scraper for pushing the mat into all the sharp corners and getting rid of bubbles. Usually takes me about two/two and a half hours with prep and cutting the mat to glass up a full skirt mould with a layer of 300gsm and 450gsm mat. Loving the videos. Five skirts are going to take up a lot of room, unless you stack them.
  9. 3 points
    Hi Everyone! Well as promised here we go with my attempt at exterminating my part of Southern California! I have been working on my Dalek for a few months now. I didn't post anything earlier because i didn't want to be an "unfinished" build diary and just leave everyone hanging. I needed to make sure I was committed to the build and will have a completed project when done. Now that I am into it and obsessed- my wife thinks I need to be committed! I apologize if the pics are not correct. I tried to resize them before uploading so let me know if they are ok. I'm making the skeleton out of plywood. MDF is hard to locate in my area. so in my excitement to finally start my build- I didn't realize I needed 2 sheets to make both the top and bottom of the skirt! I cut the top out of the middle of the bottom and inadvertently found myself making a support less skirt! lol. Read the book Steve! ugh. Angles! This thing has angles on the top and bottom! and they are not normal so you can't just cut them so the panels lay the way they should! I tried using files, sanding blocks, a disk sander in my electric drill- what a job I did! I should have been a butcher- they were a mess! hahaha. so i came up with this thing. it is a 1" x 2" stick with sand paper I contact cemented on to it so I could sand one surface while the other surface was used as a guide. You get the idea of how it is used by the picture I have of me using it on my shoulder. I am sanding the bottom of the shoulder with the stick rubbing on the top of the shoulder (not sanding anything there) as a guide. Then I flip the tool over and sand the top angle with the bottom rubbing as the guide. It seems to work. I bought some hard board from Lowe's here in California to do the skinning of the skirt and shoulders. I'm using liquid nails as the adhesive and I have a little air brad nailer I bought from Harbor Freight for nailing the skins on. I don't have any pictures of my cutting the hole in the top of the skirt. I waited until I had the hole cut in the bottom of the shoulders then I just traced it on top of the skirt and cut. Here is a picture of the wife in the skirt with my resident inspector Coco, checking out my handy work. I need to keep her interested in the build since my Dalek is slowly taking over the house and income, lol. I will use the liquid nails and strips or hardboard method I have seen to seal the seams since I am not up on fiber glassing just yet. I did some when I was a kid- but I did talk the wife into helping me with the dome when it comes time. She has had some experience with fiber glass. This is Fun!
  10. 3 points
    Control stick for the dome and eye stick test fitting. All good. It even rotates OK with just the control rod in contact with the inner edge of the neck bin top. But it certainly needs the two steel supports and, of course, the three steel prongs to keep the dome centred. Steel on order!
  11. 3 points
    A sort of fine day after a few days of much needed rain. I'd tried 3d printing the last two required eyes and the final sucker cup. I'm not sure they are salvageable......... The Mk2 Dalek is to be a Saucer Commander, so the silver skirt needs to have some panels painted black. I simply masked off the areas to remain silver using a single roll of 1" wide blue tape. In hindsight, I should have used the lower tack green or purple tape, as it did remove a couple of spots of silver paint on the back panel down the very bottom. It will need touching up later. Finally, I trimmed up the fiberglass hemis on the bandsaw. I'll need to sand the edges to neaten them up a little, and quite a few will also need a little bog and sanding to clean up any defects in the gelcoat. There are also only about 130 of them made so far (I did throw away about 10 of them, as they were misshapen for some reason), so about another 40 still need to be made. I'm going to try them without the gelcoat, just using fiberglass and resin, as it will stop the problems with the gelcoat, use less brushes and be quicker, as I wouldn't have to wait four or so hours for the gelcoat to cure before fibreglassing the hemis. I also had to Karcher (pressure wash) out my beer fridge, as some home made alcoholic ginger beer decided to go BANG! and then when mouldy. Smelled great though.....
  12. 3 points
    ok thanks i will try and upload it to youtube cheers Brian
  13. 3 points
    Ok, so I've made a start. I figure I'll give myself a year, though I have been asked if the build will be completed by September for a birthday, so that's my aim at the moment. Been a bit hot in Melbourne so I haven't done much over the past couple of weekends, but I did get to do a bit more today. So far I've completed the skirt frame (using 12mm ply). I've also cut out the top and bottom frame for the shoulders. I'm finding the measurements of the 2005 shoulders hard to get my head around (especially the gun box). I also haven't decided how to make the fender. I'll probably have a go at that before I clad the skirt, as I still need to add a seat (which means I need to figure out the height). I've also made a start on the former-board for the dome, and spent some money with EMA (postage costs were outrageous) for material for the eye and plunger. I've made much use of previous build diaries, so thanks all for providing so much information - I could not have even got this far without this site.
  14. 3 points
    hi, have been making models for many years scratch built mostly (i like the research) just invested in a laser cutter and want to make a scale dalek entirely from scratch and mostly on the laser. based in Swansea UK regards Ian
  15. 3 points
    The end is nigh... the last bit is done. Is that all that there is? Is there nothing more? With the skirt off to the convention, there was no trundling about the shop's parking lot or anything. But there was a lot of adapting for the conditions I found myself in today. First off was determining that I still had a dome light circuit that powers on with the main power. As I really didn't want to go about with it unplugged for the weekend, I went the other way and machined myself a handle and glued a push button at the end, wired to the dome lights directly. A time-tested solution that has survived any number of Dalek iterations... the manual push button for the dome lights! Simple, effective, and in character dating back to its 1963 origins! I then tried to fix the gun's LED, which I found is a 3 watt blue/UV light, which by itself worked ok but when combined with the circuit not so much. I found that something was taking away volts by the truckload so what I got at the LED was less than 2.5V. I tried halving the value of the high-wattaged resistor, but that didn't work either as I still got less than 2.5 volts, not enough to light up a 3W light. The solution of last resort: knocking out the LED and going light-less in the gun barrel and working out some other solution later. I also added a 1 pound weight to the eye stalk handle, this makes for a more balanced eye and it no longer is staring down at the feet of exterminated lifeforms. Finally... the piece of resistance to keep the Kragle from destroying all! The name sticker! I frankly got tired of waiting for a sticker to be laser cut, and like a lot of the rest of this project if I wanted something done I had to do it myself -- and unlike Scotty [the miracle worker!], I could no longer afford to give the captain an eight week estimate for a less than two week job... so out came the X-Acto blade and a ruler and a piece of white vinyl, and the Dalek HMS name sticker was cut out and applied, using the Dalek name font found elsewhere on this forum! A last bit of shading art from Darce and it blended in so well that I'm convinced it's always been there! The Dalek complete, only the weekend of Gallifrey awaits!
  16. 3 points
    Good evening everyone! I recently stumbled upon Project Dalek while looking for Dalek plans. I have decided to construct an NSD Dalek and have secured an electric wheelchair to build into it. My current goal is to have it completed this year. Wish me luck! Josh
  17. 3 points
    Meet Dalek Ichi, seen here patrolling the shores of Lake Michigan hunting the dreaded Air Kraken. Dalek Ichi was the first Dalek started by the Dalek Asylum Milwaukee. He may never be finished, like the hotrod in a car guy's garage. I think you know what I mean. We are a cooperative Dalek building club working out of the Milwaukee Makerspace. We build NSD Daleks using fiberglass molds lent to us by Acrodrome. I have named him Ichi because that is Japanese for the number "one", being the first Dalek we built. It is also made mostly of fiberglass, so, he can be a little 'itchy'. Don't you love bilingual puns? My wife dictated that I not put a toilet plunger on my Dalek and so I decided to build the Assault Dalek form the 'Parting of the Ways' episode. The claw was fun to build and soon will be fully articulated and extended by an electric car antenna. He is built upon an electric wheelchair base. His voice and ear flash is through an Andy Grove Ultimate Voice Changer.
  18. 3 points
    And done...with a spare. Just in case.
  19. 3 points
    Forgive me if it has been mentioned before, but the trick with machining stainless steel is that it "work hardens". If you let a tool rub rather than cut, where it rubs will go very hard and will not be able to be drilled. Slow and steady but plenty of pressure to keep it cutting will get the job done, but hesitate and you will be done for. Lots of lubricant will help. If you use a punch to mark the hole, it will harden that point and make life difficult. Plan, set it up right, hold it solid (however you do it) and go for it.
  20. 3 points
    This really caught my attention. I know Jalex in Australia will supply them with hole cut but for a tenth of the price I got two posted from China and I have plenty of mdf left over to make the jig in the video.
  21. 3 points
    Master tactician "Zapper" Zabrex will soon sort those pesky Mechonoids...
  22. 3 points
    Another weekend off! (an amazing thing for a Registered Nurse in a Trauma Ward to get one - let alone TWO weekends off!) It is also 37.9 degrees Celsius (100.22 Fahrenheit) in my backyard today. I decided to go to the automotive paint place this morning and I bought a litre of RAL 7001 acrylic paint for the Mk2 & 3 shoulders. It looks a little light to my eyes, so I might spray it over a black undercoat and see it that will darken it a little - but that is for next week. I bought some blade putty from the store today, as well as a box of 400 and 1200 grit sanding discs. My old mate Zacky helping me as usual. He loves watching whatever I'm making, no matter how noisy or dusty. Weird bugger. I then gave everything a good going over with the new putty and some $1 plastic putty blades. I'm pretty fussy about this stage and fill any little imperfection I can find, using the light from the doorway at an angle behind me, to show up any holes or defects in the gelcoat and fiberglass. The larger defects in the fenders get a layer of builders bog. It'll all be sanded tomorrow using 240 and 400 grit sandpaper on the orbital sander. I'll use up to 1200 grit sandpaper on the dome, as that is what most people have at eye level when looking at Daleks. They forecast it to be 5 degrees hotter tomorrow. I'm not looking forward to that, and may call it a day and go to the movies instead. As previously said in an earlier post, I'll water jet or laser cut the collars and slats out of 2mm aluminium (and 2mm copper for my Steampunk Dalek). Lasers will cut the aluminium, but not the copper, so water jet cutting is the way to go. I have contacted a few places here in South East Queensland for quotes, and at AUD$73 a set, are pretty good value in my opinion. With that in mind, I didn't want to send the job off, only for the .dxf file to be wrong, so I bought some 2mm cardboard and cut the collars out on my laser and I'll see if they fit onto the collars tomorrow, once everything has been sanded. The cardboard collars will also give me the placements for the spacers that go behind the collars, which I have cut on my laser and will glue on once I sand the shoulders. That's enough for the day.
  23. 3 points
    And who can forget having to adjust the horizontal hold before anything could be watched? Always amazed the effects one can get from old tv sets, from Dr Who 1963 to your ancient widescreen tv! A good thing arcane picture adjustments became obsolete... computer screens would make computing even more a pain in the ass if the horizontal hold has to be centered at regular intervals What's not so painful is the substantial progress the Dalek has taken! In another of those bitterly warm winter days that Southern California is justly famous for, Scott and I tackled quite a bit of Dalek work to where by day's end the Dalek is looking like the exterminator machine it is! Sanding once again was the order of the day. It took a bit to fine sand the skirt as fiberglass voids kept popping up, but finally it was deemed good enough for the final primer coat followed by the color. As it really was nicely warm, it didn't take that long for the paint to dry before spraying Krylon Matte Finish on it to seal the color basecoat, which were also done to the dome, cowl, and neck rings. Meanwhile, the two gun box plates finally got laser cut! And they turned out really well even with the modification I put in the design in the hope it could be mounted on the lathe so I may cut the inside bevel for the pivot ball. Parts were glued together, but the 4-lobed design prevented me from using the 3-jaw chuck, so after gluing everything together, I ended up using the small hand router and a 45 degree router bit, set just enough for the bearing to engage on the part. Drilled new bolt holes and found how far off the original drillings were in every way, so after the new holes were done I ground away some of the big hole on both sides. With the new plates bolted on temporarily, I investigated the best way of securing the backing plates, which are using the two original ones that had been hot glued in place. A slight modification to the boards, and they're in the perfect place for securing a hinge to the Dalek shell, and making a offset threaded post that will offer an adjustable tension to the pivot balls, as well as allow for pivot ball removal should the need arise. While all that was happening, we were consulting with painter Darcienne who will be administering the final touches to the Dalek's look, she feels it is easier for her to dirty down the Dalek with all the parts in place, and it makes sense; as individual parts don't get well-used before they're assembled into the final product. Therefore, Scott got busy with securing the 56 hemispheres, and now the Dalek is taking its first steps to a long and productive career as an exterminator! And after more consulting with all involved, and considering the weather is supposed to start raining for tomorrow, I am delaying the installation of the pivot ball plates and hinges and went into getting the shoulders ready for color. The color coat done, I was very surprised I still had an entire can of expensive paint remaining! Great for touch ups, though as a water base paint I'm not sure how well it will do as a touch up paint. Probably should have asked the paint store for a small concentrated quantity in a jar... While waiting for the shoulders to dry, I began machining the two L-shaped posts that will secure the pivot balls, with two 1/4-20 threaded holes. One is secured by one of the gun box plate bolts, the other of course secures the backing plate, offset enough to clear the ball. After matte spraying the shoulders and bringing it in the shop to sit on top of the skirt and finishing the posts, there was just enough time for me to get in the detailing game and get the slats on! All the holes lined up, and the Dalek is further armored for duty!
  24. 3 points
    Good Morning all! Well the voice modulator worked much better! Tip- it helps to have the parts installed correctly and not all wonky! lol I wasn't sure if it was good until I played a recording for my wife I made and she asked who that was and if I took it off the TV. So, don't over think your outcome if you make one of these- lol. Making the MK5 is not hard if you know how to solder and have a basic knowledge of the components. I will post a video of it later once I upgrade my speakers and can speak a full sentence with out choking and going into "Exterminator" mode. So- here are some pics i took of the shoulder build. I'm making the frame from 1/2 inch ply as well, used my "special sanding stick" to get the angles to match so the hardboard lays flat when it is attached. I'm using Liquid Nails adhesive and my little air brad nailer to attach the hard board.
  25. 3 points
    Ok, here goes. Just a few pics from Science of the Time Lords. Some are mine and others from various friends.
  26. 3 points
    Ok so I made the collar joiners today. I had the water jet company cut some strips of alluminium when they did the collars. These are 40mm wide. I cut them to length using some heavy duty tin snips. Marked a square line with a set square. Then placed in the bench vice and bent over the line. I then offered each one up to the mounted collars to make sure they were ok. Then marked them up to punch and drill a 5mm hole to mount to the shoulder spacer. The bent edge was then bent around the collar by hand. The whole process took a whoping 4 hours! What a nightmare. The collars in general look ok. I'm not over the moon with them as the fronts seem to rise a little bit especially the bottom ones. I fiddled and messed about for ages but this was the best I could get them. This was because the water jet company couldn't get the exact curve at the front, so the alluminium ones are a few few mm off compared to my card templates. I'm either going to have to live with it or make new collars myself. They don't look too bad? Maybe leave alone cause the original TVs Daleks collars were all over the place so this may look authentic. The collars are made from 1.2mm gauge alluminium which bends nicely but is still strong. The pictures show my dilemma. The last few pics show how I secure the collars at the front. The collars will need polishing at some point to remove the tiny scratches. Im not sure if they would have been brushed alluminium or should they be shiny polished. Is this easy to do? The attachment method
  27. 3 points
    Another hot and humid day. I had to go to work and get a couple of needles into a bursa in my hip and elbow today, all this kneeling, sanding and building has taken a toll on me. Luckily there are plenty of Consultant Orthopaedic Surgeons at work who jump at the change of sticking *really* big needles into my elbow and bum. At least they do it for free..... I did manage to give everything a sand to 250 grit and sprayed a layer of Septone Spray Putty over everything. This has the wonderful effect of showing up every last hole and imperfection in the gelcoat and my sanding. There are a lot of holes that will need filling with bog, sanding and another layer of spray putty. Then I can spray on a primer filler layer and paint. All that will have to be next weekend, as work as usual gets in the way of building. I gave my mate the PDF plans of the shoulder collars that I found in a build diary on here (if that was your plans, let me know for a shout out) and he being a CAD Designer, it took him two minutes to redraw them as a .dxf file which I'll test cut on some thick cardboard on my laser, before getting a few sets water jet or laser cut, to make them look schmick. Nana nap time.
  28. 3 points
    Hi Jonathan where are you based? All the above advice is sound. I Started with an NSD and have since built a second one and a MK2 Supreme each one was easier than the first, so you will get into it and making mistakes is part of the learning process dont be afraid to make them. Every Dalek is unique and has its own quirks Rob
  29. 3 points
    Howdy Everyone! I know this isn't correct for this one- but I can't resist. I was just fascinated with the claw version of the arm- so I went and made one. People at work got tired of me chasing them with it. This is made out of .750 or 3/4 mdf- which I was able to find- and then some 1" aluminum square tube I cut to length then cut one of the ends off to form a channel. (it pays to work at a manufacturing plant that has a machine shop- I go play a little when the machinists leave for the day) The threaded part is a small piece of threaded tube used in lamps- got it from Lowe's in the lighting section. The bolt in the center is a 5/16 sized carriage bolt and some 1 1/2 " diameter fender washers. I ground a flat on the bottom of the bolt so I can drill a hole and run the actuating wire thru it. I am thinking of using a hand brake cable from a bicycle that was mentioned in one of the build diaries that they were using for the Eye up and down movement. I think that it would be able to actuate the claw and is flexible so it will move inside of the arm. I still have to take the claw apart- finish sand on a few spots- drill a hole, then prime and paint silver.
  30. 2 points
    Finally got round to starting after years of thinking about it, made the dome plug and now waiting for it to dry so I can sand it smooth. In the meantime spent Sunday marking out the skirt panels on 3mm mdf and the skirt frame on 12mm plywood. Wife's working late tomorrow so will spend the evening in the garage without feeling guilty for neglecting her!
  31. 2 points
    I'm enjoying this build diary. It's nice to see some in-progress fibreglassing. I think this is a bit of a rarity because of the fact that it isn't easy to operate a camera when working with resin.
  32. 2 points
    And the saga continues. I have both sides of the skirt fiberglassed and now I am about to mate the two sides together and fiberglass the seam areas. But first here is a video of the absolute basics of doing fiberglass work. Once again I am learning as well but for those just considering going this route I hope this helps cdngoose
  33. 2 points
    More sneaky Cdngoose. Getting near the end just over 3 hours later . Still does not know I did any video of his progress cdngoose
  34. 2 points
    I did get a sample of the 922a from them when I was originally trying to source something for my build. It is a very dense mesh, but the pattern itself is much smaller than on the speaker grill stuff. Here is a comparison between the two: Plus a few others I looked at. From left to right we have the speaker grill mesh, then Wireform mesh, kitchen mesh and finally 922a on the right. The pattern on Wireform is similar in size to the vintage stuff, but it's very thin and very transparent. It damages very easily and does need speaker cloth backing. The kitchen mesh is cut from a frying pan splatter shield. I've never identified the grade, but it is much stronger than Wireform. It looks very good but is still too transparent to use without a cloth backing. I also had a sample of mesh 901a from them, but that was just the car body repair type mesh IIRC. I'll post a shot of the vintage speaker grill mesh with a scaling reference. For some reason the mesh looks very 'open' in these shots. In reality the holes appear very small from most angles. Maybe I should spray it silver as that would show the true structure of the mesh better.
  35. 2 points
    Skirt/Base mould was packed into the van for a trip to cdngoose's heated workshop. I waxed and PVA'd the mould and threw a hopefully thick enough layer of gelcoat onto the skirt. I was stood inside with the mould on sawhorses, and the fumes were overwhelming - even with the respirator. I'm not entirely looking forward to laying up the fiberglass mat tomorrow, but still excited to see the results. It was fun to see my mould next to cdngoose's shawcraft shirt mould. Really puts things into perspective!
  36. 2 points
    Hi Simon- I bought my 4" diameter steel balls off amazon- I hope the link works. https://www.amazon.com/Rome-704-S-Stainless-Polished-Diameter/dp/B0019ID32O I cut my gun box holes to 3.7 ish in diameter and the balls fit perfect. I still haven't drilled them yet, but that is next.
  37. 2 points
    Haven't posted this one here so I thought I'd give it a wider and hopefully more appreciative audience.
  38. 2 points
    Hi, to all those asking for files and completion info, sorry I have been involved in other projects for the past year, and have also been ill, meaning that my head is full of cream cheese...or it feels like it anyway. One would think being retired due to illness would mean I should have plenty of time on my hands, but I seem to be more busy now than I ever was when I worked full time. As for the Dalek Storm, I was going to use a little phone controlled car system, but found that it will not be powerful enough to drive the dalek, so I have to come up with an arduino powered system, and this means that I might be able to design a system where servos drive a clear ball for movement, meaning I can put lights above the ball which would allow the glow to shine out below Storm. So far I haven't had time to fiddle with this, but it is in the list of millions of things that I have to do. As I stated before, once I have completed the Storm model, I will be releasing the files here, but I don't want to release a part project in case I have to make changes.
  39. 2 points
    Good Morning my friends! Not too much going on- just filling and sanding and you all know how much fun that is! I dragged all the pieces together and did a quick stack up just for inspiration- and boy I gotta tell you, if you ever get discouraged on your build or if you think it is taking for ever- just put it all together and stand back! You will get fired up again to do more work! Enjoy the day and make something!
  40. 2 points
    Thanks Christmasdalek I am just waxing up the shoulders again for the next two pulls. So I will be quiet for a couple of days until I start on my skirts. I have decided that since I have been getting a great many messages to continue doing videos for the complete dalek builds including as much of the finishing details as possible including painting.
  41. 2 points
    Fibreglassing part1 now it starts this is the beginning of 2 1/2 hours of fibreglassing the shoulders. cdngoose Fibreglassing Shoulders Part 2 cdngoose Fibreglassing shoulders part 3. This is the final instalment for tonight. Shoulders are done, however I do see a couple of thin areas on the flange that I will have to address tomorrow. For now it is shower time to stop the itch and to ensure I don't carry any of this stuff to bed. cdngoose
  42. 2 points
    Night duty over for the month and a partial day of sleep. I've sanded the shoulders to 400 grit and given them a wash. I just need to fit the Shoulder Collars and get the positions correct for the spacers. I have glued the spacers onto some 2mm thick cardboard with a little PVA glue and I'm hoping that will let me get the spacing correct and see if my .dxf file for the Shoulder Collars is correct. If they are, then I'll get them laser cut next week. The skirts and domes were also sanded to 400 grit and given a wash. I bought some grey primer at my local automotive paint store this morning, and I'll prime and paint everything tomorrow. Whilst I was sanding stuff, I cut out a spacer jig for the neck rings. I have cut out all the uprights for the Neck Rings on the band saw and will drill out the holes which were laser cut into the rings at a slight angle and glue it all together tomorrow, before undercoating and painting them.
  43. 2 points
    Short post for today. I have pulled Domw two and have laid the gelcoat for dome 3 after waxing and using the Partall. Since I will not be able to pull dome 3 until afternoon tomorrow I will try to video how I do this. As for names for these 3 Daleks I like two so far snap crackle pop. But not very daleky alpha beta and omega suitable for Daleks. But I would really like more names. So if your reading this and even if you have not built a dalek yet I want to hear from you! Help name these 3 Daleks cdngoose
  44. 2 points
    Having been asked in very short order to help somebody with a Classic Dome, and help with electronics to drive a Dalek head for a show, it just seemed that we are starting on a new Dalek. Having a classic mould already, Either DIOE, or Dr Who and the Daleks would seem to be the way to go. So, I started by pulling a dome from my mould. Now I thought I had stuffed up here because I waxed 5 more coats of wax onto the mould, then mixed the Gelcoat and promptly forgot to do a PVA layer (Well, I actually use light hold hairspray). I didn't want to waste the mix, so with suitable trepidation I slathered away, let it set, added 2 layers of 450gsm chopped strand mat, and waited. Fearing destruction of my mould and disaster, I tentatively put some little wedges in the sides and started to work my way around. To my great surprise, 3 wedges and it slipped out with an incredible lack of fuss. Gotta win some. Meantime, Al had got keen and by the end of our Sunday afternoon had a neck bin produced from MDF that anyone would have been proud of. So we have a start. I might make a mould or two off my hemi's next as they take ages to produce. Next decision is do I make a mould off my Classic for the skirt and shoulders, or do I just do a second build from scratch? Decisions, decisions. Need a few beers to cogitate that one.
  45. 2 points
    You will find that most PC type mics are electret (condenser) type mics. The only gotcha may be that some PC types are fed the dc bias on a different pin. I have used these ones with success: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skin-Color-Metal-EY-533-3-5mm-L-Type-Plug-Head-mounted-Headworn-Microphone-/272531331372?hash=item3f7422192c Just avoid mics described as dynamic as they are not electret.
  46. 2 points
    Yay, China's back open for business. (Don't tell Trump I said that). I like this layout much better. Unfortunately I ran out of 220 Ohm resistors, so can't test the lights. The voice mod works fine though. Mike
  47. 2 points
    Thanks John I will probably be going through a lot of diaries when that part comes; and Elem yes I found some red ones. However, last night as i tuned it on for the first time and started attempting to tune it following the manual the red light will not turn off no matter how many counter clockwise turns I do... Thoughts? Also here is an updated picture of it in its new case!
  48. 2 points
    I'm really enjoying following your build Simon! You are doing a great, clean job and your tips and ideas are helping me figure out some questions I have with my build. I'm headed to the swap meet tomorrow to look for some items to help me make tools and I am now going to add a few things to my list I see you have used! I'm looking forward to more of your project. keep up the good work!
  49. 2 points
    Welcome vic! Which design are you doing with? If youre building an NDS, then Adam's build diary is an absolute treasure trove of guidance. I built my first Dalek last year, and I cant tell you how helpful it was. And, if youre building a different design, worry not! There are tons of great build diaries for each different design that are wonderful for when youre stuck on figuring out how to do something. Good luck, cant wait to see your progress!
  50. 2 points
    Hi Jonathan. Let me tell you, when I started my Dalek I have very little DIY experience, plus I made my Daleks with only basic tools. The only power tool I had was an electric drill. You can still make a great looking Dalek. Basically you learn on the job! My advice is: 1) Pick the style of Dalek you want to make. (The old Daleks are easier to make than the new ones.) 2) Read as many build diaries as you can relating to the build you want to attempt. 3) Be patient, Take it one stage at a time & don't rush. (Maybe start at the bottom & work up.) 4) Take lots of photos so we can all follow your progress! Good luck. Russell