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Aaron J Climas

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Aaron J Climas last won the day on February 28

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About Aaron J Climas

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    On the stolen Earth
  • Birthday 02/10/86

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    colonelbarker@hotmail.com

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    Curtin, Canberra

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    Dr Who, animation

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  1. Hey Anthony, A fair bit, no where as much as others @audrey2 for example! But a lot of my Imperial Dalek full sized parts have been 3D printed. For example the plunger, the eyeball and the master hemisphere for moulding. The plunger bit here (the white bit) isn't actually the final one I've used, not are the dome light covers, as I discovered the dimensions were incorrect, so I had them reprinted to to be accuate. All of the parts on the Imperial Dalek beyond the plunger itself have been remade in silicone moulds and recast in fibreglass to give added strength. Well a combination of that, and now wanting to clean up multiple prints again in the future. The NSDs really are helped by 3D printing. The majority of my printing has been done on quite cheap printers at quite low quality settings. For a couple of reasons, where I had things printed locally I had to stay with the printer for the *entire* print for safety reasons. So the NSD eye front, for example was a 4 hour print, and I couldn't so much as go to the toilet, and had a toddler with me. As a result a lot of thing have been printed in smaller segments and assembled. Another problem with doing quite thick 'slices' is warpage can occur, so my NSD for example took two goes as the first one warped in printing and so the bottom wasn't flat. So on the NSD the eye front was printed, as well as the gun bosses (although I wouldn't recommend it.), the oil seals were 3D printed on mine, we printed 4 seals then made four silicone moulds to get the numbers up. Another build I helped with had entirely 3D printed slats and a plunger. If I'm entirely honest the laser cutter did most of the NSD small segments, gunbox front decals, light cages, eye discs, plus plenty of internals. The blue printed material seen here.. Was done on an objet 3D printer at the university, and is something like a 30K machine. That requires a new print to be done on it every 10 days, so they were always doing random prints to keep the machine in working order, as a result I ended up with a lot of extra bits redone at a MUCH MUCH higher resolution. The problem with that material it seems to flake layers off over time, so any paint you attach tends to wrinkle and split, so that all needed to be recast. I don't think that eye front exists anymore, it was destroyed when I made a fiberglass mould from it. But in regards to the print files I've made above, they should comfortably print to about half scale before the resolution gets a bit too low. I'm aiming for 1:5th scale for these ones, so there should be plenty of resolution for that. The shoulders skirt and neck are a 100% rebuild from my previous models as there just wasn't the geometry density that would allow them to print smoothly. For example an NSD eye you probably in CGI can get away with perhaps 40 or 60 isopalms / edge loops. Perhaps 90 or 120 if you wanted a big close up model with lot of scratch details. I did 180 on my printed one, and it ended up having jagged edges all the way around the edge and they had to be manually smoothed off by hand. So for something about 100mm across that's round you probably want somewhere around 360- 400 all the way around the edge. The Imperial neck bin above will be 120mm across so I have included 720 edge loops to get a nice smooth print on it. It feels counter intuitive, but with CGI you can always tell the face how smooth it should appear from one face to another, whereas 3D printing will always give you a direct flat line per face, So if you set all your models normal's to the hardest setting, that's what you get from a 3D print. I've talked too much about this. There will be model photos in a couple of weeks, assuming I can knock this model out in 12 hours today..
  2. A couple more updates on the Imperial Dalek. It's not perfect, but should be *relatively* accurate. These are 3D print files.
  3. Yeah.. I'll blame my daughter. What's largely taking all the time up is measuring all the skirt panels and working out all the trig calculations for the angles.
  4. Suffice to say this slightly more accurate version of the skirt has caused many, many sleepless nights for me. But I thought I would share an image of this model that's taken the best part of a week to assemble..
  5. Well, some more progress made. I've been working on some bits of the SWD and putting new dimensions I got a hold of into practice for the plinth. They seem to be working fine. So far. Ish.
  6. I do realise I should be doing other things with other plans right now, but this has peaked my interest. I've seen people tell me the plinths on the SWD are betweeen 50 to 70 odd mm. And when David measured them as 2.5" (63mm) I thought I should look into it properly. Measuring the known part of the shoulders as well as the front edge of the plinth I've estimated the top box is 70/71mm thick. But like a chump I had always assumed they were the same thickness, but comparing images of the two it's very clear that the bottom one is thinner around the 60mm mark or so. I'm working in mm, but I think the top one is 2.75" and the bottom is 2.5".
  7. I must have missed that one. I put question marks wherever I wanted a dimension, any dimension that wasn't recorded I removed before posting these, because the above only represents about 1/5th of what I asked for. But it's enough to get going on. @bec weirThese aren't plans as such, but just raw numbers we can use to compare to what we already have. The good thing is that the plinth dimensions are within 2mm of what we already have. So that's very promising.
  8. My friend David went to the DWE yesterday in Cardiff and took some measurements from the Emperor on display. Although they are quite rounded dimensions apparently they fit pretty darn well. I suppose the main interesting point is that the sides of the plinth were measured are pretty much 13" exactly rather than RedGenral's 12.7". About 5-6mm or so difference. The lever covers were measured as 4" tall (102mm rather than 95mm) Again fairly minimal. Again the slats were measured to pretty much 1" exactly wide rather than 30mm. Anyway, I'm putting these out for anyone to use if they feel the desire. General did some amazing work and so the dimensions won't rock the world at all, because it's only suggesting some fairly minimal differences.
  9. Just throwing this into the mix for a moment. My good friend David gathered these dimensions from the Dr Who Experience yesterday. Amazingly all the plinth dimensions pretty much align with Reactordrones dimensions. I also have a collection of images of the gun. So I'm hoping potentially a set of plans can be constructed. (Edited to add the 3D model the dimensions are pasted on here is one from the downloads section rather than anything the dimensions are suggesting.)
  10. Hello everyone. I thought this was over. Apparently not. My good friend David went to the DWE today (probably yesterday with the time difference) and measured up the Davros prop for me. And while there are some key dimensions missing, there is enough here to compare to my work, and hopefully make some adjustments. The key elements that are incorrect is the rear panels width along with the overall width and length. They seem like big things as they basically affect every panels position, an to an extent their actual dimensions. Probably the key reason for the skirt panel differences is that all these come from (despite the diagram) the right hand side, rather than the previous images and references that come from the opposite side. The numbers are a touch more rounded than I would like. The elements I'm happy with are things like the rear skirt height only being out by 2mm (and that could be difference of measurement.) and basically all the skirt panels being damned close. The profiles of the front and sides are pretty much correct, it's really the bottom profile of the skirt where things start to have serious issues. And of course, the backrest, it seems I had made it too big overall, but everything is more or less in proportion. I do believe that the top profile of the skirt is pretty much bang on as are most of the console dimensions. The major thing I need to correct is the rear skirt panel being 17.5" rather than 18". What's bloody annoying about that last one is my photo measurements *were* correct, as you can see a few pages back, I made the assumption that it would either be 17" or 18", and the original PDF plans had it at 17", too small IMHO. It's going to take a little while to take in this new information and work out how to incorporate it effectively.
  11. You're too kind. The Maya paint effect foliage can look amazing animated, but won't render in Mental ray, so you have to render your layers out with different engines. Then the foliage leaves on the ambient occlusion layer has issues because it considers any transparency solid, and you need the amb occ pass to give foliage a half decent look. Crazy..
  12. Here are a few stills from the working files for one of my current projects. The images are quite small, as the output format is SD PAL. This is from shot 59 of Mission to the Unknown. I'll probably share a version of the shot here when I manage to get it to upload. Despite making a rather large reproduction of the original set in Maya with 4 million polygons, I've more or less cut the whole thing back to whatever is in shot, and removed everything else, then added depth of field effects in the shot. It was taking something like 22 minutes to render a preview image because of the huge amount of geometry. I managed to get it down to six minutes by removing most of the set, then even further by rendering a single still of the background and foreground elements and only animating the Daleks. It won't work for every shot, but some noise over the background and subtle faked camera movement should sell the shot. Here's an image of the raw set. And here is some work on the Rocket set. The set is basically 100% projection frames from the on set photographs. Then those projections cleaned up in photoshop. The wings for example I projected the main one visible, and cleaned up the text and detail, then flipped the text for the opposite side and duplicated it around. The same for the main tubes and engines/ ladder etc. The set probably needs some better lighting. Initially I added a lot of frees and bushes etc into the shots, ultimately I've gone with rendered stills of plants on planes in the background, some small bushes in the foreground and a layer of modeled dirt on the ground. There is also a projection map of the studio floor on the ground, and the "content aware fill" used to generate missing detail. It doesn't' work as well as I would like it, but the alternative is much more detailed leaves and dirt passes, and.. I'm doing the project in my spare time. So I'm not exactly keen on using up hundreds of hours of render time. Included is Dalek 1 for scale. It's had to be altered quite a lot to get it to fit in, because the shadows and lighting a baked into the projection maps of the set, putting low level lighting makes the set invisible, but the correct amount of light to see the set renders the Dalek terribly bright. And here's an image of the set, it's more or less a recreation of the studio corner used in Mission, the main different is off to the right there should be more jungle leading in an L direction, but none of those shots involve Daleks, and do I didn't feel the need to include them. Edit.. And the almost finished shot. I need to add motion blur, possibly bring the colours on the Daleks up a bit.
  13. May have done. I don't know the brand sorry, I'm told it's relatively common in the UK, i've never seen any in Australia so ended up sculpting and casting my own.
  14. Oh, I see. So you want to be able to print the whole eyestalk in one go?
  15. Hey there. I'm using 1" rubber strip from my local rubber supply store. (That's a lie, Bec got it for me) But yes it's designed to hide the gap between the top and bottom of the console, as apparently the edges were all cut at 90 degrees, so there are massive gaps as the console goes along. I'm told.