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bec weir

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bec weir last won the day on March 21

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About bec weir

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  1. First day off after night duty, so not much done. I want to get some fiberglassing done, as cyclone Debbie to the north of Brisbane will soon turn into a tropical low and is set to track south, so we will get plenty of rain later in the week. I have decided to secure in the balls for the gun and sucker cup arm using fiberglass. These Daleks are going to be static props, so there is no need for the arms and guns to move. However, I do want the guns and arms to be removable. A bead of clear silicone was run around the edge of the holes for the gun and arm and the stainless steel gazing globes (with holes already cut into them) pushed into the silicone. The silicone was smoothed with a dampened finger to ensure a tight seal for the resin. After two hours, the silicone was cured and some 450gsm fiberglass mat was soaked in resin and moulded over most of the globes. They were then hung on the trusty Dalek Parts Hanging Apparatus in the backyard. We've had a lot of rain, as the monsoon season has come late this year. The lawn desperately needs mowing, I almost lost Zacky in the jungle. I went to the local hardware store today and bought eight 2mm thick zinc coated brackets for 96 cents each. I flattened these out using a lump hammer and routed out the bottom of the neck rings to a depth of 2mm to accommodate the brackets. These were then glued in using a polyurethane glue and clamped for a few hours. I remembered to put the neck bins in first before gluing in the clamps this time. Left to dry the right way up, so any excess glue will drip onto the floor, and not the neck rings. This will all need sanding tomorrow, before I add the wooden pegs to secure them to the shoulders. Tomorrow I attack the collars for the final two shoulders.
  2. Fiberglass the joints from behind to stabilize the join, then putty with what you have been using.
  3. Why are you putting so much work into filling, sanding and priming the neck bin? It is covered with cloth and mesh and not seen by anyone, other than the operator. Make sure it has no obvious sharp edges that may impale you, paint it black with the cheapest black paint you can find and then move on to making the dome movement mechanism.
  4. I didn't do much today. It is my Birthday and the last day of my days off. I went out for a steak dinner and watched "Life" at a pre-screening. I go back to work tomorrow. I did manage to fit a single set of collars to the shoulders. It is a surprisingly difficult task. The 2mm aluminium seemed like a great idea when I was getting it laser cut - nice and thick, resistant to bumps and people trying to break them. The thickness also makes them pretty unforgiving when trying to fit them around the curve of the shoulders. After several hours, and a couple of new holes needing to be drilled through the spacers, the collars were fitted to the Mk1 shoulders. The collars were fitted with a large dome-headed bolt at the front and back. They were just simply tightened to buggery until they held the two halves of the collar firm to the spacer. These large heads were covered with a roughly 35mm wide strip of 1mm thick aluminium. This thin aluminium was really difficult to cut cleanly with the snips I had on hand and my mate suggested I try his guillotine used for cutting paper and card. It worked a treat! The aluminium strip was bent by hand over an offcut piece of 2mm collar aluminium, placed in the right spot, then the bottom part of the strip was bent around and under the collar. I then squished the thin aluminium around the bolt head. I'm not happy with the look of the front of the collars, and I might revisit these parts later. Those are Pauls' hairy legs. Not mine. Fitting the neck bins to the neck rings would have been easy, had I left more meat on the top of the shoulders, however, I cut the top of the shoulders to the inside diameter of the bottom neck ring. Stupid. So I cut some 6mm MDF squares on the laser and routed out a 6mm deep section of the bottom of the neck rings and glued them in. It was here that I realised that if I glued them all in, I wouldn't be able to fit the neck rings in later. Yeah..... The newly glued parts were pulled apart and the neck bin fitted. The 6mm MDF was then glued back into place. This does mean that I won't be able to remove the neck bins at a later date, without cutting the support pieces. I'll need to sand the bottom ring before it can be fitted. You might also be able to see the two 12.5mm wood dowel pegs I'm going to use to secure the neck rings onto the shoulders. The weight of the dome, bin and neck rings should keep it all in place.
  5. Hey, Between panel three and four and nine and eight. Bolts together really well with a seam that isn't really visible. My NDP's are simple trundle daleks. They are on four castors and are big enough to simply stand up inside and walk around. I'm 180cm (6') tall and can easily stand and see out of the neck rings when walking. To get in, I get a mate to tilt the whole Dalek back onto the bottom rear of the fender and crawl in from the front and stand up. It may not be elegant, but it works. The salad bowls look like a great way of doing it. For the dome pivot, I just used a 100mm gazing globe, as I couldn't find a 110mm one and, seeing as though it is about 7' in the air, there will be few people able to see it anyway.
  6. My utility vehicle (Ute in Australia) is now fixed and running bloody well. It has been raining heavily this past week. The monsoon season is late this year, but has made up for lost time this week. I managed to repaint the shoulders in todays sunshine - sorry, but the blue shoulders are staying, despite what some people have been saying about them. They have been on Doctor Who and are now cannon. I'll fit the collars to the shoulders tomorrow when a mate comes around to do some laser cutting. He's a boilermaker by trade, so he *should* know how to help me bend some aluminium to fit the shoulders. I am trying to find some light blue 3mm acrylic, as the stuff I currently have is nice, but I want something closer to the Ford Olympic Blue. Another local acrylic supplier has a light blue that I'll go and have a look at next week. Using a photo of some shoulder mesh provided by @Aaron J Climas, I went out to a company called Locker Group and purchased a 1200x1200mm aluminium panel that was pretty close. I'll cut it to size tomorrow, once all the collars have been fitted. The snips took me ages to find in my junk-strewn workshop. I have to clean it up one day. I also finally managed to finish the neck bins. Not needing them to be see through, I bought some black poplin form a local haberdashers for a few dollars a meter. The cloth was 140cm wide, which was just perfect for wrapping the bins. I also covered the bins and cloth with fiberglass flyscreen mesh to give it a bit more protection and interest. Certainly not accurate, but it will stop poking fingers and at $4 a meter, was dirt cheap. The layers of mesh and cloth were stapled on using an air stapler, with the staples being spray painted over with mat black paint. Zac, as always supervised my work. I had a thought a few hours ago about how to attach the neck bins to the collars and the collars to the shoulder. I've cut some 6mm MDF squares out on the laser and tomorrow, when I find my cordless router (where does stuff disappear to?), I'll cut a rebate in the underside of the collars and attach the MDF to them. I should have thought about this bit earlier and simply left a bit more of the upper flange of the fiberglass shoulder intact. This would have then simply let me sit the neck bin on the shoulders. Live and learn.
  7. Looking great! If you can, try and have a split skirt. I did my first two NDP's with a full skirt, before deciding to split the skirt (by altering the mould). The split skirt Daleks can go through standard doorways, whereas the full skirt cannot. It makes transport and storage *much* easier. I'm planning to split the full skirts this year. For the arm joints, I had tried to get ten 125mm stainless steel spheres made here in Brisbane to match the plans with their flat section where the gun and sucker arm meets the sphere. The cheapest company wanted AUD$300 for tooling and $85 for each sphere. I ended up buying the needed spheres from Alibaba in China for UDS$25 each. It took them about five weeks to ship them to me. My spheres may not have flat spots, but my wallet likes my choice.
  8. My Daleks have an Australian accent.
  9. Plans in millimetres would be really welcome.
  10. I 3D printed my eyes and they look pretty good once given the acetone treatment and sanded. Adam S has linked his Classic builds in the pinned (and locked) thread at the top of the TV 60's Daleks section, where this Build diary is located. Have a look.
  11. Well, life will get in the way of building. My ute decided that it didn't want to start this morning. The alternator is buggered and the battery isn't being charged. It gets fixed on Monday and I cannot go and pick up most of the stuff I need on my scooter. I did spend the day fiddling around with stuff. The shoulder collars have been fitted. Strangely the top ones all fitted perfectly with the spacers, yet the same three spacers were wrong on both sides of the collars on all of the shoulders. I seriously do not know how that happened. The spacers were knocked off with a hammer, the remaining MDF sanded off and the aluminium collars used to place the new spacers in the correct spot. They were again glued with araldite and will get a coat of paint on my next days off. The balls for the shoulder were also drilled out. I used a long drill bit to drill through both sides of the gazing globes so they lined up. Using my brand new 1HP drill press and a stepper drill (bought on eBay for about AUD$20 from India) and a pair of rigging gloves, the larger holes were cut out over about 90 minutes. I used my Mums advice when drilling the gazing globes: Go really slow, use a little pressure and plenty of lubricant. I also gave the stripe caused by dribbling resin when fiberglassing the hemis on the front of the Mk1 skirt a sand with 2000 wet and dry paper. A mate gave me the hint to place the 10cm plastic hemis that I used to make the silicone moulds for the fiberglass hemispheres over the hemis in the skirt, and use them to mask the hemis when repainting the front of the skirt. Brilliant. And finally, I sent off a sample of the Ford Olympic Blue that I used for the Mk1 shoulders and Hemispheres to someone here in Australia who has the Project Dalek acrylic eyestalk discs. He sent me a picture of the acrylic against the Olympic Blue and added in a stripe of British Paints Sky Blue in a spray can on the left of the sample card. All colours are kind of close, but the paints have a greener tinge and the acrylic is obviously lighter than both paints. When I have my Ute back next week, I'll go out to a new acrylic supplier and see if their sky blue acrylic is any closer that the blue acrylic I already have. Tea time.
  12. Have you tried EVA foam? It is the sort of stuff they make camping mats and sleeping rolls out of. Give it a quick Google search.
  13. A rear-wheelchair will just have a bigger turning circle than a mid wheeled one.
  14. Hello and welcome! I recently went to Italy and took a little friend with me. Choose what era Dalek you wish to build, have a read around the Forum and start a Build Diary when you start to build. Asking questions in a Build Diary are more likely to get answered quickly, than asking questions in other threads and build diaries. divertiti!
  15. Well, I didn't work on the shoulders or the collars, instead I tackled affixing the hemispheres into the skirts. I had previously "glued" the hemispheres in with an application of clear silicone sealant, the sort of thing plumbers use a lot of. This was meant to hold them in place and to hopefully seal around the edges of the flange on the hemispheres, for when I fibre glassed them in. I've seen a picture purporting to be of the inside of an original Shawcraft skirt, and they were fibre glassed in. It would also make it pretty damn hard for kids at conventions to kick the hemispheres in before I had time to get to them and give them a swift kick up the bum for doing it. Using strips of fibreglass mat, it took about 90 minutes to do the lot, and about 750 millilitres of resin for each skirt. There was only *one* leak from the inside out, and that of course, was right at at the very front of the last skirt to be done - the silver Mk1 skirt. It has left an obvious line through the paint, so I'll have to mask off the hemispheres in those areas and give that section a light sand and re-spray parts of panel one and two. Bugger it. I cut some doughnut shaped disks out of 450 gsm fiberglass mat, dipped them into the resin and mushed them by hand (gloved fingers really) onto the fiberglass disks that make up the pivot point for the eyestalk inside the dome. I had covered the bolts and bolt head with silicone to stop the resin from getting onto the bolts. This was a pain in the bum to remove later, and I should have used plasticine. I'll need to get stuck into the area where the bolts and nuts go with my Dremel, to make it easier to tighten them up when it comes time to add the eyestalks. I also gave the area a quick spray of black paint to hide any inner workings, after I'd masked off the slot in the dome. Finally, any defects in the sucker cups were filled with the blade putty and sanded smooth once cured. They need a coat or two of satin black spray paint to finish. I like that you can still see that they have been 3D printed from the detail inside the cup. I'll give people something to talk about at conventions. The Daleks are getting closer to completion, I just have to: Buy the pivot bolts, cloth and mesh for the neck bins. Pick up the new pan headed slot screws (really bolts, but they call them screws for some reason) for the shoulders, which will let me attach the collars to the shoulders. I'll then have to remove the collars and give the shoulders a paint to cover up the areas where I have removed the spacers and then reassemble the collars onto the shoulders when the paint is dry. Buy some 38mm OD aluminium tube for the sucker arms. Fix my lathe so I can turn the bushes for the sucker arms. Design the.dxf file for the gun octagons and laser cut them out. Make the guns somehow. Drill the holes into the gazing globes for the arms and guns. Figure out how to affix the gazing globes inside the shoulders. Turn some tapered aluminium parts for the eyestalks and assemble the eyes. Simple really.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • chris harper

      Saturday spent fixing first bit of 6mm bendy mdf to my shoulder frame, I had a couple of clamps but a friend lent me about 8 and needed every one. My son in law loaned me his multi tool which cut like a dream, however, he needs it for work so had to give it back so went to Wickes and bought one for £25, a bit cheaper than his top of the range model but it still does a great job. Have fibre glassed my dome plug after waxing the he'll out of it, fingers crossed it will come off ok.
      · 1 reply
    • chris harper

      My dalek will have a name, talking to my friend about old films, and we talked about the  Eiger Sanction, and came up with the name Hemlock, so now my half finished skirt, nearly fully sanded dome plug and shoulder frame has a name...Hemlock
      · 0 replies
    • DathandsomeDalek

      Hello! I joined a few days ago and I'm trying to see how this site works
      · 1 reply
    • project one

      Waiting for hemispheres.
      · 3 replies
    • John  »  monkeytennis

      Many thanks for donating, to support the cost of Forum hosting. Very much appreciated.
      · 0 replies