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elembivos last won the day on March 18

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About elembivos

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    In the Kaled dome
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    Portland, Oregon

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  1. For the PDF MOD Mk5e you can use this (or similar) wireless microphone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016WXBYI/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489808749&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65 *IF* you remove R21 from the Mk5e circuit board. Of course if you do that you can no longer use it with an electret mic directly, but can with a dynamic mic. Hope that helps. Mike
  2. Also, it would help if we knew where in the world you are. You might find someone near you who'd be willing to build a PDF MOD Mk5e for you. I've done this for a few people who didn't feel up to building it themselves, and I know others have done this too. We're a helpful bunch on the forum. The MartMOD is an obvious choice as most of the world is covered by the 3 suppliers, and it will do what you want. If you're in the U.S. there is the TinyMOD too. Andy Grove has an Arduino shield he was selling on Tindie that does a good job. I've also got a different Arduino shield design I posted about in this section. I didn't publish all the details for it yet but I do have several boards assembled and tested. I can't comment on sound of the Sciphonix since I don't think anyone has posted any sound samples on the forum from it yet. I do think it is a transformer/diode ring mod, which would give it the characteristic from the classic Daleks. Dalek Sec would be an NSD so his "ring MOD" would have been solid state, more like the Mk3 MartMOD, or Mk5e PDF MOD. Then there's the new wave of digital "ring MODs" including the MartMOD Mk5, Andy's and my Arduino shields, and the TinyMOD. There's actually lots of choices, which is cool. A few years back it was much more of a problem... Mike
  3. Dome looks good to me. Nothing a little Bondo and elbow grease can't fix. Your build is coming along great. I look forward to seeing it completed. Does it have a name? Mike
  4. Ha! I was just saying to my daughter that we should scale Luce up to match the eye. We're not too far in to change plans. I'd need to scrap the dome plug I've been working on for the last year and a half, but that shouldn't be a problem. At this pace I'll be sizing Luce for one of her children when the time comes anyway. Might as well plan for extra room just in case.
  5. Another diversion. This time it's a small one, I promise... A few years ago, around the time I was working on Dalek Cas' eye, I was wandering around a Home Depot and felt like someone was watching me. I turned around and saw this: I was a bit unsettled, but mostly just amused. I see Daleks everywhere, as I'm sure you all understand. I bought it thinking I might be able to make it work for Cas' eye, but ended up not. It isn't exactly correct dimensions, the LEDs were white, and I already had fiberglass parts, so I just put it on a shelf and continued with the plan I was already working on. I considered throwing it away, since it's been taking up space for quite some time. Of course I can't throw anything away that is in working condition, so I decided to take it apart and see if there was anything useful I could scavenge. Once disassembled I started liking it again, especially since jbourd turned me on to the blue LED disk in this image. It fits snugly in place of where the white one was. The setup was originally 8.4W, and the new disk has a max rating of 7W, so it seems like it was made for the task. I proceeded to install the new Blue LED disk in place of the old White square one. It only took a few minutes, drilled 4 holes, tapped two, and screwed it back together. Here it is powered up to 1.8W, which I think is plenty. The first image looks whiter than it is. I took the second at a low exposure to try and bring out the blue, but it only marginally improved the image. My photography skills are not great, sorry. I think it looks pretty good. Here it is up against Dalek Cas Diameter is slightly large, and the glass diffuser is a little big too, but it might pass. What do you think? Is it close enough, or should I go back to the standard and make one out of plastic or fiberglass. Would incorporating this cause me more work or less? Mike
  6. I purchased a few of these LED clusters, one for Dalek Luce and one to maybe upgrade Dalek Cas. Cas' 1W LED is almost bright enough, so this might be an improvement. The 11V spec for this doesn't seem very accurate. I think they list the same spec for all colors, but not all color LEDs have the same voltage. I measured the power vs. voltage curve with no limiting resistor. It is almost exponential, so that confirms there is no built in current limit resistor. It would have hit it's 7W max rating at about 13.6V. I didn't actually go that high, because it was getting quite hot. I measured the aluminum back plate to be 140°F out on the bench. It would get hotter inside an enclosed eye, which might cause issues with the 3D printed iris. I'm thinking of running it at 2W instead of 7W, as that is twice as bright as the one I'm using now. That would be 8.8Ohm (10 is close enough) with a 13.5V ("12V") freshly charged SLA battery. or 12.0V exactly with no limiting resistor, assuming your cluster is matched to mine. You can try your regulated 12V supply without a resistor if it can supply 170mA or more current or you can wait for the SLA battery to arrive, and use it with the 10 Ohm resistor. Mike
  7. Thanks Bec, that's the plan. I had your NDP diary open while I was working on it. Ordered some plasticine to emulate your method of building the jacket. I'm going to a conference tomorrow though, so there will be no progress this week.
  8. Received a fresh supply of 220 Ohm resistors, and built up 4 more of what I'm calling the UNO MOD. Here they are with the test system, including automotive turn signal LEDs for the dome lights, and a blue automotive dash light for the tip of a gun. All seems to be working well.
  9. Ugh, the compressor was delayed. Ordered 9 days ago through Amazon, and it hasn't even shipped yet. I should have just gone to Home Depot... So I couldn't wait any longer. I was able to remove the excess epoxy from the fill hole and overflow reservoir by poking a small stick and/or back end of a drill bit through the holes. With them cleared I was able to pour a new cast. Here's the mould pre pour Here's the epoxy post stir, and after 20min in the vacuum chamber. Once the bubbles were cleared the epoxy was transferred to a syringe and injected into the mould. Once full it was set aside. The last took several days to set, and unfortunately I will be out of town in business when this one is ready, So won't be able to demould it until Thursday. 😡. If anyone is curious that's one rubber band. It's big. Really big... While I had the gloves on I thought it would be a good idea to get back to the dome mould. It's been taunting me for a while now. The silicone I purchased so long ago would have been within its rights not to cooperate, but alas, it did not complain. Had my first experience with the thixtropic additive and smeared some silicone over what was already on the dome. I added keys from casting in some aluminum u channel and a little plastic cup. Still not confident in my method, but I am getting a feel for the materials. Next up, when I get back home, is to cast the fiberglass jacket to give the mould some structural stability. Then stare at it and decide if it is going to work.
  10. Hi guys. Finally home from work. I assumed a large lead acid at 13.5V to recommend a suitable resistor. Looks like this is a regulated 12V supply, which will give very different results. It looks like this LED assembly is a 4x4 array of 2.75V blue LEDs with no built in current limiting resistors. A small SLA battery will get pulled down below 11V and not blow things up, but a large scooter or car sized battery with the same "12V" rating would likely blow it up, hence the resistor I recommended. Current will go up exponentially above 11V, so a 12V supply that is capable of much higher current could vaporize the LED assembly if no current limit is applied.
  11. Back to the lenses. I'd had some success with making Moflash replicas using Oomoo RTV silicone moulds, and clear polyester casting resin, but there were a few issues. First, the polyester resin was a bit viscous which made it difficult to fill the mould without a void. It was also pretty brittle once cured. The oomoo is pretty soft and flexible, and my mould making was pretty amateurish which left defects and inaccuracies. Also, I didn't know to degass the silicone or casting resin before using them... I befriended another builder recently who does this sort of thing for a living. I sent one of my precious originals to him to make a mould to use for his dalek, with the deal that he send me the mould when he was done. He went over and above and made a video tutorial to show me the equipment I'd need, and the materials he used. I've finally got around to testing out the new mould, and the results are much better than what I'd achieved before. I used a clear epoxy casting resin this time, which is much thinner than the polyester making it easier to work with. It's also less brittle once cured, so should make for a better part. I now have a vacuum pot to degass the resin, but jumped the gun and made my first casting without getting a pressure pot to cure it in. I think it turned out very well. Here are epoxy casts from my old mould (left), and the new one (right). The new one has 3 or 4 tiny bubbles around the base, other than that it looks almost perfect. I probably could have left the resin in the vacuum for longer, but grew impatient. Maybe next time. I can't cast another one until the compressor arrives tomorrow. I don't think I can get the stem out of the fill hole without it ..
  12. Back at Wizard World Comic Con this weekend. Was lucky enough to get a photo op with John Barrowman. He's quite a riot. My daughter was thrilled.
  13. Did a little reading in data sheets to be sure. It turns out the 2N2222 transistors will be OK with 100 ohm resistors limiting the base current in this setup, so I finished it off with those. All is well, lights are working fine. I'll work on documentation in coming weeks. This weekend I have a con, so won't get anything else done. Mike
  14. Hi Scott, No microphone pre-amp. I went back to my original plan, ultra-minimalistic. It uses the internal 20x differential instrumentation amplifier with the 2.54V internal reference voltage for the ADC. It seems to work relatively well considering I now have no control over the pre-amp gain. It's just about right though. It's hard to tell from the images, but the 12V power input is a 2.1mm jack and the dome light is a 1.7mm jack, so you can't actually swap them. You are right though, even if you connected them the wrong way nothing would blow up. It just wouldn't work. They do all have labels on the board too, so as long as you can see it you should plug them in the right spot. Mike
  15. No. It just feeds power to electret microphones. Your wireless mic doesn't need that, and can be harmed by it. I've tested it with R21 removed and a similar wireless mic and it works fine.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • mikemurphy  »  mischief

      Sorry it has taken so long to respond but I thought I received an email notification when someone posted something, but obviously that is not the case.
      If you are still interested, email me at mikeandrashida@iinet.net.au
      · 0 replies
    • LowKey

      Started slowly getting back into this project, 3D printing gun and eye parts for now!
      · 0 replies
    • chris harper

      Saturday spent fixing first bit of 6mm bendy mdf to my shoulder frame, I had a couple of clamps but a friend lent me about 8 and needed every one. My son in law loaned me his multi tool which cut like a dream, however, he needs it for work so had to give it back so went to Wickes and bought one for £25, a bit cheaper than his top of the range model but it still does a great job. Have fibre glassed my dome plug after waxing the he'll out of it, fingers crossed it will come off ok.
      · 1 reply
    • chris harper

      My dalek will have a name, talking to my friend about old films, and we talked about the  Eiger Sanction, and came up with the name Hemlock, so now my half finished skirt, nearly fully sanded dome plug and shoulder frame has a name...Hemlock
      · 0 replies
    • DathandsomeDalek

      Hello! I joined a few days ago and I'm trying to see how this site works
      · 1 reply