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elembivos

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elembivos last won the day on March 31

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About elembivos

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    In the Kaled dome
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    Portland, Oregon

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  1. Sorry, I don't know much about radio control. If you post some pics of your system, or model numbers, someone here might know how it works and offer assistance. I'm building my system to control from inside, so just use a potentiometer wired direct to the Arduino to control the position.
  2. You shouldn't need the AccelStepper library, and that example looks like it only starts the motor. It doesn't try to make it go back and forth. I suggest using the example code that comes with the Adafruit Motor Shield v2 library which you must already have as it is used by the AccelStepper library. Try this: This example code goes forward and backward using several different modes. I just tested it with the same motor and it worked fine for me. Are you planning to manually control it with a potentiometer/joystick from inside, or remote control from outside? Or do you want to program a specific animatronic sequence? Also, what is your eyestalk made of? How much does it weigh? How well counterbalanced is it? I'm not sure this motor will have enough torque, but it's worth a try. Let me know if this code successfully makes it go back and forth at varying speeds, and more details on what you want the code to make it do. Mike
  3. It looks like mcm gets that motor from Adafruit, just like the shield. You will need the motor shield library from Adafruit to make it work. This tutorial uses that shield with the same motor. You should be able to follow that and get the motor moving. Once it is moving I can help with the code specific to your implementation. https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-motor-shield-v2-for-arduino/using-stepper-motors Mike
  4. Is this the one? http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-17453 It matches your description except that it is 4-wire, not 5. I'll dig through my parts bin and see if I have one like it... Mike
  5. Hello flexitron, Unfortunately there are a wide variety of stepper motors. Some operate at as low as 2V, yours is more likely 5V or 12V. It would be easier to help if you could include an image of the motor and/or a part number if it has one printed on it. Also, is your Adafruit motor shield version 1 or version 2? The two versions are actually very different. I have a version 2, and a few different kinds of stepper motors, if they are anything like yours I might be able to help. Mike
  6. We had a visitor today. Bentley, the corgy that played Rapunzel/Lydia Spring on the BBCA show Dirk Gently's Holistic Detective Agency. He, his little sister, and his humans came to visit with Dalek Cas. Too adorable to exterminate.
  7. Hi Jibblets, If one of the LEDs flashes when you insert the mic plug, and the other flashes when you pull it out, that would mean the pre-amp is working properly. They won't stay on unless you Ooohhh into the mic. If you Oooohhh and the LEDs don't come on then the mic is probably not working with this system. It is designed for a simple mic, not a headset with speakers. The connector should look something like this: and not like this: Some will have even more rings. The microphone I used developing the circuit looks like this: Which cost about US$2.50 on eBay direct from China. Search for headworn electret microphone and something similar should pop up. If you post a picture of the mic you are trying to use, and a close-up of it's connector we could probably tell if that is likely the problem. MIke
  8. For the PDF MOD Mk5e you can use this (or similar) wireless microphone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016WXBYI/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489808749&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65 *IF* you remove R21 from the Mk5e circuit board. Of course if you do that you can no longer use it with an electret mic directly, but can with a dynamic mic. Hope that helps. Mike
  9. Also, it would help if we knew where in the world you are. You might find someone near you who'd be willing to build a PDF MOD Mk5e for you. I've done this for a few people who didn't feel up to building it themselves, and I know others have done this too. We're a helpful bunch on the forum. The MartMOD is an obvious choice as most of the world is covered by the 3 suppliers, and it will do what you want. If you're in the U.S. there is the TinyMOD too. Andy Grove has an Arduino shield he was selling on Tindie that does a good job. I've also got a different Arduino shield design I posted about in this section. I didn't publish all the details for it yet but I do have several boards assembled and tested. I can't comment on sound of the Sciphonix since I don't think anyone has posted any sound samples on the forum from it yet. I do think it is a transformer/diode ring mod, which would give it the characteristic from the classic Daleks. Dalek Sec would be an NSD so his "ring MOD" would have been solid state, more like the Mk3 MartMOD, or Mk5e PDF MOD. Then there's the new wave of digital "ring MODs" including the MartMOD Mk5, Andy's and my Arduino shields, and the TinyMOD. There's actually lots of choices, which is cool. A few years back it was much more of a problem... Mike
  10. Dome looks good to me. Nothing a little Bondo and elbow grease can't fix. Your build is coming along great. I look forward to seeing it completed. Does it have a name? Mike
  11. Ha! I was just saying to my daughter that we should scale Luce up to match the eye. We're not too far in to change plans. I'd need to scrap the dome plug I've been working on for the last year and a half, but that shouldn't be a problem. At this pace I'll be sizing Luce for one of her children when the time comes anyway. Might as well plan for extra room just in case.
  12. Another diversion. This time it's a small one, I promise... A few years ago, around the time I was working on Dalek Cas' eye, I was wandering around a Home Depot and felt like someone was watching me. I turned around and saw this: I was a bit unsettled, but mostly just amused. I see Daleks everywhere, as I'm sure you all understand. I bought it thinking I might be able to make it work for Cas' eye, but ended up not. It isn't exactly correct dimensions, the LEDs were white, and I already had fiberglass parts, so I just put it on a shelf and continued with the plan I was already working on. I considered throwing it away, since it's been taking up space for quite some time. Of course I can't throw anything away that is in working condition, so I decided to take it apart and see if there was anything useful I could scavenge. Once disassembled I started liking it again, especially since jbourd turned me on to the blue LED disk in this image. It fits snugly in place of where the white one was. The setup was originally 8.4W, and the new disk has a max rating of 7W, so it seems like it was made for the task. I proceeded to install the new Blue LED disk in place of the old White square one. It only took a few minutes, drilled 4 holes, tapped two, and screwed it back together. Here it is powered up to 1.8W, which I think is plenty. The first image looks whiter than it is. I took the second at a low exposure to try and bring out the blue, but it only marginally improved the image. My photography skills are not great, sorry. I think it looks pretty good. Here it is up against Dalek Cas Diameter is slightly large, and the glass diffuser is a little big too, but it might pass. What do you think? Is it close enough, or should I go back to the standard and make one out of plastic or fiberglass. Would incorporating this cause me more work or less? Mike
  13. I purchased a few of these LED clusters, one for Dalek Luce and one to maybe upgrade Dalek Cas. Cas' 1W LED is almost bright enough, so this might be an improvement. The 11V spec for this doesn't seem very accurate. I think they list the same spec for all colors, but not all color LEDs have the same voltage. I measured the power vs. voltage curve with no limiting resistor. It is almost exponential, so that confirms there is no built in current limit resistor. It would have hit it's 7W max rating at about 13.6V. I didn't actually go that high, because it was getting quite hot. I measured the aluminum back plate to be 140°F out on the bench. It would get hotter inside an enclosed eye, which might cause issues with the 3D printed iris. I'm thinking of running it at 2W instead of 7W, as that is twice as bright as the one I'm using now. That would be 8.8Ohm (10 is close enough) with a 13.5V ("12V") freshly charged SLA battery. or 12.0V exactly with no limiting resistor, assuming your cluster is matched to mine. You can try your regulated 12V supply without a resistor if it can supply 170mA or more current or you can wait for the SLA battery to arrive, and use it with the 10 Ohm resistor. Mike
  14. Thanks Bec, that's the plan. I had your NDP diary open while I was working on it. Ordered some plasticine to emulate your method of building the jacket. I'm going to a conference tomorrow though, so there will be no progress this week.
  15. Received a fresh supply of 220 Ohm resistors, and built up 4 more of what I'm calling the UNO MOD. Here they are with the test system, including automotive turn signal LEDs for the dome lights, and a blue automotive dash light for the tip of a gun. All seems to be working well.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Aussie Kev

      Looking for the close up photo of the portable graphic equaliser deck that Nick Briggs use's with his Moog MF102. Somewhere out there, I have seen this photo of him sitting at a table with the graphic equaliser, to fine tune in the sound of the Moog. Could be used as a reference photo if allowed on the Forum.
      · 0 replies
    • madianm

      Well just an update . I've started finally , thought i'd tackle the base and work up from there. I've been sorting afew smaller things like hemi's and cutting drainage pipe for there surrounds . See how it goes , will post some pics at some stage ! ..Ian
      · 1 reply
    • OutCastDalek

      I finally received the Workshop Manuel today! Now all I have to do is study it. Hopefully I'll start a build diary by the summer. 
      · 0 replies
    • Ferrain

      Printing the front fuselage of DSV2.....
      · 7 replies
    • L'chaim 12

      If a mod would be so kind as to delete the mushnik TDP build, as I'm not going to be building it anymore, I have a different dalek in mind in a few months, but this is just bugging me.
      · 2 replies