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JonnyAlpha

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About JonnyAlpha

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    In the jungles of Skaro
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    North Devon

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  1. Small progress today. I went to town looking for a castor but could not find one the right size so i'll have to order one. I wanted to get the castor before I made up the front of the frame but had to do it without it. I decided to make the front pieces of the frame 600mm long tapering at the end to a width of 240mm to match the width of the rectangular piece I made previously. Once again I used a piece of plywood to make up a jig to ensure that the frame pieces were in the correct place before tack welding Once both side pieces were in place I tack welded on the front bar. And here's the frame all seam welded up. The next step is to dress down the welds clean it up and Hammerite it. Motorisation Update I ordered some Anderson Connectors and bought two inline fuse holders and some cable, I could only get 30Amp cable locally but I think it should be OK? I am trying to work out my motorisation setup. Ideally I want two methods of control, manual and autonomous. On the 32A version of the Sabertooth this is possible using 'User Mode' So I will need to get a 6 channel 2.4Ghz Tx Rx and for autonomous control I would like to use a Rapsberry Pi but the problem is that the Pi logic levels are 3.3v not the 5v that the Sabertooth wants so I will need to get a Level Shifter or rig an Arduino Nano in between and send command from the Pi to the Nano and then onto the Sabertooth but this gets complicated. The Pi can be connected via USB but I don't think the User Mode accepts this as an option with R/C. Still need to get a castor to fit, needs to sit 19cm from the bottom of the frame to the floor.
  2. I picked it up from a friendly Mobility Shop :-) I thought there might be a way to show then in a larger format to avoid having to click on them.
  3. What size castor did you fit? My wheels are not as big as yours as you can see in the pic but as long as the castor is no bigger and not to small and it ensures that the frame sits horizontal? Or should it lean forward to avoid tipping?
  4. @RepeatedMeme thanks for the link yes it is very helpful. Well I started work on the base today, this is going to be a long slow metamorphic build. First I stripped the motors out of the power chair. Then after studying a couple of motor chassis pics / plans I decided on some initial dimensions and cut out some 20mm boxed steel. The motor mount frame is 400mm wide x 240mm long. I cut 2 x 400mm and 2 x 200mm and placed the 200mm pieces inside the 400mm sections hence the 240mm length. Next to make sure that I ended up with right angled corners I clamped the pieces together (one joint at a time) and tack welded them into place. Prior to tack welding I cleaned up the weld areas and chamfered the edges to ensure good penetration. Once the frame was tack welded together I welded up all the joints - some of my best welding yet! Next I worked out where and how I would mount the motors and drilled holes in the frame for the bolts, then I did I test fit: The motors are a little wonky - nothing to do with my welding it's because one is mounted up the other way compared to the other? Not sure if I can fix this by stripping the motor and swapping the case orientation around? Iv'e decided on a frame similar to the once that @VinceMartyn posted a pic of. It will have a triangular ish front welded onto the forward section of my existing frame under which a castor will be fitted. How on earth do I make these pictures bigger in this post?
  5. @VinceMartyn I have just been studying your chassis again as I have just picked up some 20mm box section. I noticed a red Foxes biscuit tin in the background! It made me laugh as I have a small robot made out of a Foxes biscuit tin - my Grandson calls it 'Rubbish Robot'.
  6. The purpose of my previous post was to link on one page some of the questions that I had been asking on one place. Just tried to edit it again but it won't let me. Base / Mounting the Motors Here is an old thread I started on using a WheelChair. A nice pic of a frame put together by Vince. The frame had adjustable ride height, which is something I think I will incorporate in my plan. I now need to get some 20mm box steel tubing from a local supplier (about 5m of the stuff) and then start planning out a frame to support the motors. I have a welder and most of the associated metal working tools for the job so this will help.
  7. The Base I have been trying to figure out how to build the base / fender section so I posted a question here. This started off as a thread just asking about material options and sizes of sheet plywood to buy but also solved some technical problems on the size of the base. In the thread linked above was a link to a scale build which had some brilliant pics showing exactly how the base / fender section is made up, here is the link. And here is another thread I started, within which are details of the base dimensions and some ideas on how to bout the motors. Mounting the Motors I found some good pics giving some good information on how to put a frame together for the base (including some dimensions). This is a link to the site. There is a link to Project Dalek on the site so I guess the builder is a member on here? R/C and Computer Control Here is a thread I started on adding an R/C interface. It gives information for adding an R/C Interface using a Sabre Tooth controller.
  8. Thanks all my settings seem OK I just don't seem to get an emails?
  9. I am a little lost sorry, by base do we mean the fender as well? I am having a little difficulty working out how it is constructed? According to the plans I have (TWD_BASE), in the pic TWD BASE00, it shows a view of the base from underneath and the profile pic attached On the second page TWD BASE01 it gives a plan of what I think is the top of the fender that you 'omegagamer89' are referring to which is where you get the 88cm wide x 119.6cm long. But what I cannot figure is whether the fender is built up from the base (the base layer of material) or hangs down from the base, because it does not show an image of it completed? On the second page it doesn't show any internal cut outs - but I guess that is down to personal preference and use - a static model would not need a cut out? Also the skirt seems to sit onto the top section, I thought it would sit on the bottom with the fender butted up against it? I am doing what I hate burying technical info under the wrong heading :-( Found some pics on this page. This guy seems to have made a base (the bit that his motorised frame is bolted onto) around the same dimensions as the top layer of the fender. He appears to have the bolted a fender onto the base? His top fender layer seems to be made out of two halves but thinner material? Whereas his base is one piece? So if I get 2440 x 120 and cut it 90 x 120 (as you suggest) I'll have 1540 x 120 left over to make up some fender pieces which can all be made out of 18mm ply?
  10. I have just finished a 4 year restoration (Classic Mini) itching to get started on my DALEK but this time I need to balance the wife / family and project. I know how you feel. Sat night takeaway - escape from reality for an hour or so. Don't forget Robot Wars BBC2 7:00 pm tonight :-) When we pop to Wikes today to get some stuff for the garden I wonder if she wlll notice me slipping a 2m sheet of plywood in the car?
  11. Hi; I am looking for some help in sourcing some appropriate board for a motorised and sit in DALEK base. 18mm Hardwood Ply is about £32 per 2440 x 1200 sheet from Home Base (probably wont fit in my car!! Any other choices / places I should be looking to bring the cost down?
  12. I joined the forum and started asking questions back in 2015 but at that time I was in the middle of a Classic Mini Restoration. The Mini is now finished (well they are never really finished are they) so although my garage needs refurbishing and I have a tonne of jobs around the house I have decided to embark on my DALEK build. I have opted for a NSD 2005 variant (David Tennant reignited Dr Who for me having stopped when Tom Baker finished) is the 2005 a sensible start? The intention will be for this to be a fully motorised (digital) DALEK with R/C and Autonomous Mode. The Beginning I have decided to start with the base as I want to get a rolling motorised chassis. I have an Electric Chair which I have started to dismantle and as this is a fold up version so it looks like I will remove the motors and make up a new metal frame similar to the replies I received here. I have just ordered a Sabretooth 2 x 32A Controller. As a reference for my build I have the following manuals and plans: a. Dalek Builders Workshop Manual. b. v4.7.2 NSD manual. c. TWD_BASE.pdf d. NSD_Engineering_Drawings Hopefully get some 18mm ply for the base tomorrow? Damm that stuff is expensive: http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/hardwood-plywood-2440-x-1220-x-18mm-407086
  13. OK so although I started asking question on here a couple of years ago at the time I was in the middle of a Classic Mini Restoration. Now that the Mini is finished (well they are never really finished are they) I am about to embark on a long drawn out DALEK build. I have opted for a NSD 2005 variant (David Tennant reignited Dr Who for me having stopped when Tom Baker finished) is the 2005 a sensible start? I have decided to start with the base as I want to get a rolling motorised chassis. I have an Electric Chair which I have started to dismantle and as this is a fold up version so it looks like I will remove the motors and make up a new metal frame similar to the replies I received here. I have just ordered a Sabretooth 2 x 32A Controller. Straight away I seem to be having difficulty figuring out the size and shape for the base and making sense of all the plans that are around but I think I am getting there. I found this post which I think links to some plans for a 2005 series base (I also found 2005 engineer drawings which are fantastic). My Questions 1. Just to ensure I am on the right course, before I buy some 18mm plywood and start cutting it up. The base dimensions (the bit that my motor frame and seat will bold onto) are 1196.153mm long and 880mm wide. But I still need to subtract the thickness of the fender material? Extract from the drawings that I am referring to is attached. 2. As a reference for my build I have the following manuals and plans: a. Dalek Builders Workshop Manual. b. v4.7.2 NSD manual. c. TWD_BASE.pdf d. NSD_Engineering_Drawings Many thanks in advance for any help.
  14. @VinceMartyn Just been googling for some information and found your post of 2014. Everything I need to know and my immediate shopping list (needs refining) is: Sabretooth 32A Controller 6CH 2.4Ghz Transmitter 2.4Ghz Receiver (with built in Failsafe). Heavy gauge (30A) wiring probably 10AWG In line fuses rated to protect the controller. And a few other bits I am sure :-) Just finished (well almost) restoring a classic Mini so here goes another money spinner!!
  15. Ok so I have a powered wheel chair and want to get the Sabretooth Controller but do I need the 2 x 32A or 2 x 25A? I guess it depends on the motors (how do I work out the current draw?). Also I have been looking at R/C units how many channels do you recommend? I guess the more the better ,1 for each drive motor (2), 1 for the dome rotation, 1 for each appendage (3). So that's 6 minimum? Is 2.4Ghz the recommended frequency?