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Trackhappy

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About Trackhappy

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  • Birthday 22/10/63

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  1. If you need something better in the modulator department, feel free to get in touch. I have Martmod and Project Dalek's own PDFMod for Members. I also have amplifier modules in stock that I use for both of these if you need more oomph. Cheers, Glenn. Oh, and it might be the 9 volt battery that is causing the distortion, they really don't have much clout.
  2. That sounds great Vince! Can I have copy please?
  3. The original controller in my Jazzy pride was 50A, so I opted for the 32 to be sure. Chec the motor specs. Current = power (Watts) divided by Voltage. That is the maximum per motor without destroying them, but as Vince eluded, stall current (you have applied full power but the motor can't turn) is much more.
  4. Running off one battery will work, but it tends to flatten that battery faster than the other and eventually destroys it because they are unbalanced, so not recommended. Either second battery, or get yourself a 24-12 volt converter like are used in trucks.
  5. Mike has put the details in the Downloads section. If anybody in Australia needs help with these, please feel free to contact me. I think I have a sample board or two that Mike sent me, but if there is sufficient interest I will order a set of boards in for purchase.
  6. You need an audio taper pot, of say 5K-10K. So that means A5K or A10K. The audio taper means it has a logarithmic response, which matches how our ears process sound. If you have a linear one (B5K or B10K), no great problem, but control will tend to be all at one end. To hook it up, one end pin goes to ground, the other end to the modulator output, and the wiper (middle pin) to the amplifier. The ground end is the pin closest to the wiper when it is turned right down (If you can imagine when turned right down the wiper is connected to ground so you will get no sound, turned right up the wiper will be connected directly to the amplifier input so you will get maximum volume). The ground will have to carry through from modulator to amplifier as well.
  7. 13-14V is fine for a battery on charge, and 6-7V is right at half the supply voltage. The green led flickering when you plug a mic in is a good sign, I would guess at this stage the mic's are wrong. Green should only light up with an input, all good there.
  8. The analog input is a 0-5V signal. You can use a standard potentiometer based joystick to give you the necessary inputs for manual control, just put one end of each pot to +5v, the other end to ground, and the wiper is your feed to the analog input. There are also more expensive joysticks using hall effect sensors, like in the original wheelchair most likely, but they are harder to interface. If you want to go computer controlled you have a few choices of interface.
  9. First thing to check is for around 12 volts on the microphone connector, +ve to pin 1. Thw microphone plug is a 3.5mm plug which can have either 2 pins or 3. The shaft should be ground, connected to pin 2 on the pcb. The tip should have 12 volts from pin 1. Some mics have a third pin, which is called the ring and is the bit just past the tip. On some mics this is what feeds the power rather than the tip. Check that you have the wires the right way around on the mic socket. With no mic connected, check for about 6 volts on IC2 (LM324) pin 5. Pin 7 should also have roughly 6 volts on it. If all of that is ok. maybe you just have the wrong mics. Let us know how you go.
  10. The only thing I can see from the photo's is that there doesn't seem to be much solder flowthrough from the bottom to the top layer. I have seen plate through holes that don't connect properly, and the circuit relies on them for connection between top and bottom. I would go over the joints carefully and make sure that there is a flow around the top and bottom of the component legs. If you still have no luck we will need you to do some voltage measurements at various places to see what we have going on. Most microphones will work, but does it have 3 pins or two? Some need voltage fed on the ring and output is on the tip.
  11. Most likely speaker issues. The amplifiers tend to be all pretty good, the differences being distortion measurements (THD) that in our sort of use are irrelevant. Supply can make a big difference, if the voltage is dropping it will clip and distort badly, so big enough battery to handle the peaks is necessary. A decent set of PC speakers might work, one with a sub-woofer for that booming domination effect. Otherwise find ex-TV or stereo speakers. Don't forget though, that a lot of it is your voice and how it interacts with the modulation frequency. I know after playing with mods for a while that my voice is not good and I have to set the mod frequency to suit my voice and really project the attitude to get it to sound reasonable. It sounds pretty good in the video anyway to me...
  12. I am using these inside Martmods and with PDFMod's with complete success. You need to put them in a box and add a pot for volume though. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281820580304?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Otherwise, something like these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331996675223?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=541039096284&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Decent speaker makes a BIG difference though.
  13. Agreed, it is pricey, but they just work and are bullet-proof. There are other controllers if you hunt around, but none I have found as easy to use and solid. Switching between manual and RC isn't quite that simple, you still need something to control the Sabertooth, but it can be done.
  14. Grab this download and a Sabertooth 2X32A. Most of the hard work is done for you.
  15. Oops, sorry that was a typo. R21. It feeds DC to the microphone. The radio mic won't be expecting DC on its output.