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Trackhappy last won the day on March 26

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About Trackhappy

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    In the Kaled dome
  • Birthday 22/10/63

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    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. I am using these inside Martmods and with PDFMod's with complete success. You need to put them in a box and add a pot for volume though. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281820580304?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Otherwise, something like these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331996675223?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=541039096284&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Decent speaker makes a BIG difference though.
  2. Agreed, it is pricey, but they just work and are bullet-proof. There are other controllers if you hunt around, but none I have found as easy to use and solid. Switching between manual and RC isn't quite that simple, you still need something to control the Sabertooth, but it can be done.
  3. Grab this download and a Sabertooth 2X32A. Most of the hard work is done for you.
  4. Oops, sorry that was a typo. R21. It feeds DC to the microphone. The radio mic won't be expecting DC on its output.
  5. As specified above, with R21 out it should just work I suspect.
  6. I would check these out as well : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Headset-and-Handheld-2-4GHz-Wireless-Microphone-MIC-Range-FM-Plug-Receiver-/131753867538?hash=item1ead247912:g:Al4AAOSwAuNW58dr The main reason is they are 2.4Ghz digital and likely less prone to instability than the FM band ones.
  7. There is no reason you can't use a radio mike with the Martmod. It will just come down to the details of the specific mike you have. The cheapies use a 1/4" jack, so you need an adapter cable from 1/4" jack socket to 1/8" plug, and potentially a capacitor in line to isolate the dc that feeds the normal mike. Very simple to make. The only other potential issue is output level. The Martmod has a mic gain, so hopefully it will be within the range you can set and away you go. There is a post somewhere on here where it was done successfully on a PDFMod, and the input is very similar. All the best, Glenn.
  8. That looks like a 10 ohm resistor. Elembivos strikes again... They should be warm to the touch, but not hot I suspect. If they are hot, their life may be limited. Will they be on permanently, or part time? Part time they should be fine. If you are running them all day, then I'd probably add a little resistance to drop the power a little.
  9. Check out NodeRed. Also check out http://whoprops.proboards.com and K-9 on there. Richard Hopkins is already doing this for his K-9. There are others, but this one I have played with a little. My coding skills are very limited so I didn't get too far before being "distracted". The technology and most of his K-9 configuration would be directly applicable to a Dalek I think.
  10. Well, you have had all the theory, and a bunch of helpful comments. I suspect we are now confusing you. On a practical level, grab yourself 10 x 1 ohm resistors and string them all in a chain. Connect the chain in between the battery and the LED. Power it up and see how it is. Remove one resistor and it should be a little brighter. Remove one more and it should be brighter again. Check the led's are not running too hot at each step and continue until you get the brightness you want, or they are running too hot. Once you have the right value, either just tidy it up and use as is, or buy a single resistor of that value. If you have a 12 volt battery (car battery, motor bike battery etc.) I'd use that just to remove the complication of your smallish test power supply. Simples..
  11. Have PM'ed you a config file to load up. You just need to load the software on a computer, connect the controller via USB cable, open the file I sent and upload it to the controller. You can also save your current configuration as a file if you want to go back to it for any reason. My guess is that your mixing for tank style steering is not correct.
  12. Parallel will give you 12 volts at the motors, but twice the current capability. Series will give you 24 volts, but the same current capacity. If the motors are 24 volt, I'd probably go series. I will have to load up the software again as the computer I had it on died. I'll do that today and get back to you.
  13. If you have a multimeter, monitor the battery voltage while you are trying to turn. If it is dropping below 11 volts, maybe it is battery related, but I doubt it. 12AHr is not big enough in my opinion, but with no weight it might be ok. I would put two of them in parallel if using 12 volts, or serial for 24 volts. As for the turning problem, have you loaded the Sabertooth software on a PC to setup the controller? I would start there. There are lots of options in there and if you have a problem, I can send you the config file from mine.
  14. My Sabertooth supplies the 5 volts to my RC receiver fine. If you have a look in the downloads section there is document I wrote on using a Sabertooth 32 to RC a Dalek. Check that out. If you only have the RC receiver it should run off the Sabertooth fine. This diagram shows the connections: https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwilmeHj5LHSAhWCpZQKHWvtBf8QjRwIBw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.robotgear.com.au%2FProduct.aspx%2FDetails%2F903-Sabertooth-2x32-Dual-Motor-Driver&psig=AFQjCNE8JTUEJa31FTsHIkQrnH3AugpLPg&ust=1488336759192093 0v needs to be connected to the black wire of your RC receiver, and 5V to the power wire (red usually).
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