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jimmybav last won the day on February 6

jimmybav had the most liked content!

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About jimmybav

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  • Location
    Whyalla, South Australia

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    Daleks, motorcycles, DIY, technology, teaching, basketball, standup comedy, family, cooking, exercise

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  1. Yesterday's efforts weren't the best. If I can't remove the panels easily I will need to get busy with the filler. My chamfering of edges to achieve corners was in short, awful. Have decided a couple of things. 1. Get busy with a plane/sander to cut an angle to n the top plate. 2. Abandon screws. 3. Cut panels on the table saw instea of craft knife (too laborious). Temp fix panels in place with tape. 3. Use liberal helpings of liquid nails and temporary pins to attach to frame. (Will be glassed internally anyway. Got on with the neck cage cage this morning. Happier with its progress but the top ring needs to come further down still. By my calculations I'll need a 51mm spacer between middle and top ring to keep within my limit. The total of the ring and neck block on the plan is 33mm and mine are 32mm so some creative maths was needed to work out the drilling positions.
  2. So its been a busy time (if you know me on other forums, my car was crashed into, I had to repair another as a daily drive, teaching is a ^%$* gig and my 2 1/2 year old has been busy which means parents are busy, and hosted Welsh rellies who can't fathom why an aussie likes doctor who so much). In the ensuing time since Feb 17 I have a Fibreglass NSD dome, an NSD fender and acquired an electric wheelchair and built a 1200x1200 rolling workbench. The plan tomorrow is to try and fit as many of the skirt panels as possible. I think it would be better to do out of a large sheet but I may have to opt for hobby panels as the wife is taking the vehicle with a tow bar. Borrowing from Brett's Mk3 build here I like the idea of cladding the skirt and trimming with a router that has a flush trim bit. Has anyone else tried this and conceivably, could this me dont with overhang on the panel joints themselves or would they flex too much? My secondary question is what did people do to stiffen the panels so they get a nice tight fit for fibreglassing the seams up? Is this critical or will body filler be my bestie anyway? Many questions to ponder.
  3. Dalek Colin complete with new Fender.
  4. It's where mine came from but I paid the extra $2 for insured postage.
  5. That jig is awesome. Any chance you could flat pack and post one?
  6. This person would post to the uk I think. I got some in Australia. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/381835251332
  7. I'd love to chat to Jeremy Evans about his eye build YouTube vids but I cant seem to find him on the member map. I suppose I was just searching Wales because he sounds many family members.  


    1. RepeatedMeme


      I found him eventually on YouTube. His videos are a few years old now. John might know if JE is or was a member.

    2. jimmybav


      I didn't know if he was some kind of unspoken entity on here. Has some good vids but I'd love to communicate with him about his eye build. 

    3. RepeatedMeme


      You could message him via YouTube - https://www.youtube.com/user/TheJeremyevans/about 

      John's checked and can't find any trace of him having been a member.

      This could also help. He posted on the RPF (Replica Prop Forum) http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=103156

  8. This really caught my attention. I know Jalex in Australia will supply them with hole cut but for a tenth of the price I got two posted from China and I have plenty of mdf left over to make the jig in the video.
  9. Now looking at matting. Heronair is exxy but this gear is $30 a metre less. I think I'm black it will still look ok.
  10. I've been thinking about the neck rings for the dalek and how I can make the blocks. I dont want to spend $300 on casting resin to make them and dont have moulds anyway. I think I can make them from wood. The bevel should be pretty easy to achieve with a router table and if I can get access to a planer thicknesser making the actual size stock should be straightforward (might email the tech studies people). My other thought is that my neck rings are 2mm thinner than the plans. So if I used 16mm mdf which can be cut and shaped easily for the blocks the total ring+block height will be what it should. 18mm+14mm=16mm+16mm or is that just crazy talk? As I have a table saw and plenty of mdf off cut at home I think its at least worth a try. The sphere I think could be a wooden bead with a section cut out and glued over the chamfer. One other idea I had was to make them as per the plans and use 7mm ply laminated together (gluing face grain is pretty strong) ply would be lighter than mdf and be as easy to sand and shape. 2 layers of 7mm cut at 31mm wide and glued together. run the strip or strips through the router with the bevel bit attached at the correct height Then I set a stop block to the 43?mm length on my table saw sled and cut the blank blocks off. The build diary I saw last night has a table saw jig for making the notch in the block. then again I could make 3 and then make a mould I guess but moulding gear is hard to get in Whyalla.
  11. After leaving the build alone during the hot weather I've gone back to it now and have turned my platters into three neck rings. Lots of measure, nibble repeat with the circle jig on the router it took the skill side out and also made it a simple but methodical process. So neck struts next. Second photo is of the mate I found while moving the table (which became my neck rings). Im genuinely feeling less of a fraud on this build. I haven't had any parts instantly arrive and I'm enjoying the slower pace.
  12. Took the plunge. Appropriate pun due to using a router. I set up my circle jig and had a go at cutting a neck ring. Issue is that it's from 16mm mdf. I was was planning a NSD neck on my genesis (as it's less work) but I may push on and cut the chamfer all the way down or use 16mm rings on my NSD.
  13. Persist and you'll find the answer for everyone else. It's a bugger. My dome has the glossy patches problem too. Rub it back with 1200 before next application would be my recommendation.
  14. I thought I'd clarify the process and my thinking behind the new fender as well as some pros and cons. First the old fender was generously given given to me by Aaron Climas from his first renegade build. It was seemingly constructed with many layers of mdf of varying thicknesses to around 70mm tall. It also came with wheels and bracketry for mounting. These were great to get me daleking but were well used and the fender not quite accurate. (They certainly functioned and looked the part). The new fender is 16mm mdf because it's cheap and what I had (I wanted to build one of those giant shoeboxes and got tooled up to do so but then daleks took over my life). the shape was achieved by getting a 50mm spacer (ply wood scraps taped together) and scribing along the edge of my existing skirt, I also traced out the original skirt size and internal cutouts to help locate things later. The shape was cut out with a jigsaw. In hindsight I'd do this with a circular saw next time to prevent blade deflection or minimise it. With the leftover over board I had I cut some strips on my table saw using a piece of aluminium as a fence to 75mm. I cut 4 pieces that were 1200mm long. For anyone not familiar with pocket holes I've included a picture that explains it better. I set my jig to 5/8 as it's pretty close to 16mm and then began working on my first cuts. I am terrible at mitres and the fender would be much stronger if all my mitres were better. I opted for having clean outer corners and not working too much about the internal mitre. I used Sed as many short pieces of offcut at first and started on a short section. Cut angles which meant the corner would marry up to the top of the fender. After I was happy with the external edge I put the piece in the jig and drilled 3 pocket holes. After applying glue i clsmped them into position and drove an end screw to try to prevent wandering. I low grit sandpaper helped to tidy up areas where my strip ended up under the plate top. I worked my way around cutting mitres with a compound saw but as stated before angles like this can be confusing to novices like me. I had to get into my head that my saw could only cut up to 45 degrees so when I measured a 60 degree angle that it was turning out from 90 so I had to calculate the difference. That part did my head in so I opted to have a mitre at one end and a 90 at the other. I worked my way around the whole base cutting gluing and screwing and was happy with the result. Sanding and filling was required but not too much. I can't get mdf sealer so I used zinsser 123 seal prime undercoat as I'd just finished painting over faux bricks in mums living room. I marked locations for five wheels because three was quite tippy and OzzyMat's Dalek had 4 and I liked how it moved. The fifth was so I could change it to three if I wanted. I gave it 2 coats of zinsser (sanding with 240 between coats) and attached the wheels. That night I cut out the hole and also gave the exposed edge two coats. Following morning I procured 500ml sample pot of solver "night sky" and set about brushing it on and flattening back with 240 between coats. Being f******g hot I was able to do 5 coats (being a water based acrylic I'll probably need to repaint it every event) in in terms of attaching the old fender had recessed wheels so it required steel brackets and a combo of spacer blocks to get them up and under the lip of the fende. Mine are surface mounted because I do things like that. It did mean the old fender used the wheel brackets to attach it to the skirt which meant transporting it with help in one piece or solo and up ending the Dalek at setup and packup. The new fender has two locating dowels at the front front so I can be placed on the ground by one person and the skirt lowered on. And two T nuts at the rear so the skirt can be bolted on. I would like to get some extension handles welded on (imagine the bolt that secures the jack and spare in the car boot) pros- slightly more accurate, moves better and can be setup by one person. Very strong with glue and pocket screws. Very cheap to make. $30 sheet of mdf screws I already had. Cons- made of mdf so just as heavy as the original (next time use ply). Mitres on the inside are awful. Hope that this helps. If you're in the USA you can get Kreg materials at Home Depot I'm told and in Australia it's from Carbatec or online. U.K. It's an amazon thing. Should also mention that some obscure woodworking stuff can be obtained from carbatec like router bits for neck rings etc.
  15. Went to grab my 4th doctor kit to find this.
  • Recent Status Updates

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      Many thanks for your donation to help fund the Forum hosting etc. It's very generous of you and much appreciated!
      · 1 reply
    • Aussie Kev

      Looking for the close up photo of the portable graphic equaliser deck that Nick Briggs use's with his Moog MF102. Somewhere out there, I have seen this photo of him sitting at a table with the graphic equaliser, to fine tune in the sound of the Moog. Could be used as a reference photo if allowed on the Forum.
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    • madianm

      Well just an update . I've started finally , thought i'd tackle the base and work up from there. I've been sorting afew smaller things like hemi's and cutting drainage pipe for there surrounds . See how it goes , will post some pics at some stage ! ..Ian
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    • OutCastDalek

      I finally received the Workshop Manuel today! Now all I have to do is study it. Hopefully I'll start a build diary by the summer. 
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