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chr0nic last won the day on March 17

chr0nic had the most liked content!

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About chr0nic

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    At Maxtible's mansion
  • Birthday 22/01/85

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    Sydney (The Hills District)

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    My son and my family...

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  1. The swivel wheels are the rears, the fronts (black on the one in the picture, but they may be grey on yours) are 'stabilizer wheels'- say the user was racing along the road and a child ran out in front of them he\she would release the joystick and the unit would lean forward slightly allowing these wheels to roll along the floor. However, you have pretty much answered the question as to why your unit is going so slowly: you're operating it in reverse. It's not a problem- I'm actually doing the exact same thing in my build. However, these things are programmed to run at half speed when going backwards for safety reasons. So pretty much if you want to leave it designed like this I would recommend reprogramming it. The P&G Programmer allows you to increase \ decrease speeds, acceleration, reverse the motors, add\remove reverse beep and lots more settings. Test it out- run your Dalek in reverse (which would have been its original forwards) and I think you'll find it has a lot more speed. Best, Ryan
  2. RE: the legs- there is no mystery here. Some disabilities, amputees for example, don't do well with the Jet-3's traditional beaver-tail leg support. There is an accessory kit that you can buy to put traditional 'wheelchair' leg rests on the Jet. The capacity change? That could be anything- it might be as simple as at that point in time they were fitting lighter amperage batteries. Who knows. What I *can* say is that from the photos you've posted the chair looks 100% like a Jet-3 Ultra with front leg rigs. If you need parts for it you should be able to use the J3-Ultra IPB. I would be more than happy to price it up for you if you want. Just let me know. I'm also pretty sure my programmer will work on it, so let me know if you want to borrow it. All the best with the build, mate.
  3. It's strange, because your photo specifies it as a Jet-3 and Pride have only made two of these; Jet-3 and Jet-3 Ultra. Both machines take 136kg. I'll wait for your photos and see what I can do.
  4. Hmmm... try this IPB. It's the 'Ultra' Edition. The unit itself should take 136kg- I haven't read through your entire diary yet (sorry!) but are you making this r\c or driver operated? Obviously yes, if driver operated by the time you factor in all your material weights- as well as your own weight- you're likely going to be pushing the limits of the chair. Also, do you know how old the batteries are? These batteries, if left dormant for extended periods of time, will 'sulphate' and, basically, won't work properly. The thing you'll notice first is a lack of range but an overall lack of grunt wouldn't surprise me either. This is usually where my customers would say "but I didn't use them much" or "but the charger says it's full" - the reality is that if they have sat on a shelf \ in the chair for more than 6mths without a charge at some point in their life there is a good chance they don't have the guts either. Dynamics are another thing to check, obviously making sure not too much weight is over the back OR the front (it could get bogged down in either direction really). As a last resort, I do own the computerized programmer that SHOULD talk to your unit. You need to install the software and plug the lead into the charging socket. It's with another Project Dalek member (only because I didn't need it back straight away) but if you want to play with the settings you're more than welcome... I have to warn you though, there are a lot of settings in there you don't want to mess with. However it too might help- if you want to give it a go let me know and I'll get the chap to forward the kit onto you. us_jet_3_ultra_ipb (1).pdf
  5. Hi Greg, I work for a mobility shop in NSW and am a Pride agent. I can get parts for the machine if you require it. I have attached a PDF of the parts breakdown for the 'Jet 3' (I saw the model name in one of the photos). Re: the speed- there should be no reason the speed is THAT slow... most electric wheelchairs are faster than walking pace. I've also attached a brochure of the Jet 3. It says it does 6.44kph. There's a chance it has been reprogrammed to go slower (in a nursing home environment, for example)- do you think that it is doing 6.44kph, or is it much slower than this? I've also chucked the owners manual on here too... I'm sure one of these doc's will help you- most likely the IPB- don't go too much off the pricing as it's all done in USD, is probably 5yrs old etc. If you work out what part(s) you need I can get a trade cost on it for you. All the best- AU_Jet_3_om.pdf au_jet_3_ultra_ss.pdf US_Jet_3_1_ipb.pdf
  6. Ah bananas... I made the lowers with 12mm. Might see if I can pop them off to reuse for top, as I haven't cut those yet. Cheers Aaron Oh, and good news- I picked up my "correctly cut" top collars today, all polished and looking schmick. Fun times await!
  7. From early on in the build I had decided I wanted to go with an electronic eye w\ electric dome rotation... with some help with the guys at my local robotics club I made a gear that attached to a Lazy Susan bearing in Solidworks, then laser-cut it using a CNC. A suitable motor w\ gearbox was purchased from Jaycar, and a mounting plate was purchased from Little-Bird electronics + fitted to the small gear. Here is a picture of it all assembled, then a video of it in action! Lastly, I assembled my exterminator gun stick... luckily for me I made my gun entirely out of aluminium, which meant I could give it a uniform finish without paint. My metal polisher brush-finished my knitting needles, tubes and ball joints- then I used epoxy to glue it all together. A little acetone is required to clean up some of the glue, but all in all I am happy with the finish! I'll leave you all with this: a video of me testing the MartMod I bought off Trackhappy (see the Shop section of this forum) - I thoroughly recommend his work. This vid was made a couple of weeks back, before fitting the lower collar. Until next time!
  8. Thanks guys It's been a month since my last post- but I haven't been slacking off. I only get perhaps a few hours per week to work on my build due to parenting, renovating and (the worst)- work. I started off by making some 12mm spacers to attach to my shoulders so I could mount the collars. I used a holesaw to knock up a dozen- 9 large, 3 small- and used liquid nails + temporary bolts to adhere them. So I picked up my collars- boy have I had issues with these guys. So I used the collar templates from the "Files" section of PDF to make them. They are great, but- as everyone says- you NEED to add 3" to both the back + the front. Stupidly, I only added it to the front. The result? I was much too short on the back of the lower collar: ...and too long on the lower front? But that was fine because I could cut it to size: It ended up looking pretty schmick! It just means that I need to make a 'panel' to join the rear. Then came the next bit of bad news... *facepalm* I cut 4x lowers, not a pair of tops + bottoms. I was furious, but what's done is done. I sent the spare pair to a friend in hopes he can use them, and recut the tops in 1mm. They have been sent to the polisher for cleaning. I also had a 'test sit' in the cockpit. I was able to see where my viewscreen and movement controls would go, and mounted them in. Lastly, I cut up my mesh... I didn't really need to do this yet, but had some spare time just before I went home from work, some tin snips + the mesh. I still need to make the front pieces, but made the 16 spacers that go between the slats:
  9. We're talking diameter, yes? Or material thickness? I used 12mm thick MDF, the diameter was 'whatever I wanted- as long as it is discreetly hidden behind the collar' sized. Which equated to something like a 20 cent piece for the majority of them, and three 10 cent piece sized ones for the absolute front ones... All the spacers I've seen on here in diaries have been round, hole saw works great. Take it slow on the MDF- sometimes it de-laminates half way through cutting if you go too fast and gets too hot.
  10. It's coming along splendidly mate! The 'button modification' you did looks really good, all things considered. Can't wait to see a vid of the panel all flashing and such!
  11. Wow... it's been a month. I've managed to get quite a bit done in a month- it's been really exciting seeing the top-half come along! I took my routed rings and made the neck-ring section. It was slightly difficult to get the whole thing looking nice- I tried to get clever by 'drilling' the holes in the rings, but the trefoil dowel was tight \ bending and it looked atrocious. So I took it all out, cut 'triangular' sections out of the rear of each ring and filled the gaps with putty afterwards. I used some walking stick tips (from work) that were the right size to correctly 'gap' the spaces. It took me most the day, but the end result was quite good! I got a phone call from my friend who had cut up my slats- I picked them up. I got a few extras made up, just in case. I printed off the helpful PDF template for the shoulder collars and stuck the pages together. Carefully I traced the template onto my aluminium- 2x tops, 2x bottoms- and cut them out (fairly poorly) with my jigsaw. I then gathered the lot and handed it over to my mate who is an aluminium polisher. I have asked him to (please) clean up the edges on my collars, then brush the following: * gun tube * gun rods (aluminium knitting needles) * slats * collars * stainless appendage balls I already have the plunger tube, brushed to match. I am still waiting for the aluminium to arrive back- but it's getting exciting! I visited my robotics workshop last Sunday hoping one of the guys would help me make my dome and- to my delight \ amazement- a friend of mine GAVE me one he had spare. I was extremely grateful; I know, I'm a lucky guy with great friends. I popped the dome on top and photographed my very first stack shot! Anyway, time waits for no man... I stated working on my final plunger. Using AdamST's handy diagram I made up some bushes for inside the tubing. It was mostly walking stick parts, plastic knobs and the occasional strip of electrical tape- after a lot of cursing and muttering I had made it all work. I then knocked up a couple of 'end caps' out of MDF... a holesaw and some patience produced a couple of really neat caps that were then primed and painted in a metallic silver paint. Here is the end result: I cut the front hole in the dome for the eyestalk- but didn't make it wide enough for the pivot. No matter- my mates at the workshop wanted to get a progress shot of me with the Dalek so far: this is (I am fairly sure) the first photo of me WITH my Dalek. So proud. I began work on the eye pivot and mounting... it wasn't too tricky, but I am yet to receive my threaded rod (I only had solid rod and I am using a camera- it's in the post, should arrive over the next few days). I made up the pivot out of two 102mm holesaw pieces glued together... I need to clean it up, but I managed to counter-sink two nuts inside each half of the pivot and drill through the top straight. Amazing! I tested out the eye pivot and it works well enough! I plan to make it electronic, so that's the next step. Finally, here is a stack shot of the Dalek so far, without pivot on eye: I am VERY excited to have gotten this far.
  12. So it's been a while since I've updated my diary so I figured I would chuck something up before it gets too much to handle! Progress is coming along quite nicely. I decided that I was going to build as much as possible before moving across to the 'detailing' tasks (priming, painting, decals etc.) so I moved up to the neck section. After gleaning some advise from friends and family I taught myself how to use my partners router... I made up a jig using a piece of offcut MDF and bolted the machine thereon. I cut myself out a couple of discs for the neck-bin: Then worked on the struts... I am really bad at measuring this sort of thing, so I used a cheat method and screwed a piece of flat sheet to the right places on the discs I made (the top is inset a little due to the structure slanting outwards going down): Then, when it was all screwed on, I used my ruler to mark down where the struts should sit. Then I undid the structure and repeated for the other two struts. A quick pass through the band saw and I had 4x struts that I could now mount permanently to the upper\lower disc! Here are my shoulders with the neck-bin on top: I gave the bin a spray in matt black at it looked pretty nice! So now I needed to clad the structure... I decided early in the piece, for better or worse, to go full electronic with my visuals. I'll have a camera(s) and screen(s) inside- so I wanted the neck section dark as night. I bought some 'weed matt' from Bunnings and wrapped it around 3x. It made it nice and dark! I decided at this point to make up the rings... I was a little scared of this process, mostly because I tested out the chamferring 45 degree bit on the router once before and buggered a piece I was working with. I sucked it up and did the easy stuff first- using my jig to cut the three discs, then hollow them out: I tested the bottom ring on the neck section for gap distance- it looked pretty good! Unable to resist any longer I did a progress stack-shot... I was happy with the look so far! Later I bought a couple of 18L bins from Officeworks. I carefully cut the bottom off (it was easier, I found, to make a cut and then use pliers to 'open' the bottom like it was a can opener on a tin of beans!) and then the top. I made some measurements on the bin and carefully cut my mesh to size. I made a paper template (from advice in another thread that was REALLY helpful) to assist me in marking out where the trefoil struts were going to be located- this way I could position the mesh-join behind them. I cut a circle as big as my largest ring, folded it. Then again. Then again. Then again. When unfolded it has creases for the eight struts! It was 'bush mechanic' type stuff, but it worked a treat. I positioned the mesh, then used thick panel pins to lock the mesh onto the rings... the nails will be hidden by the ring\dome, so I made sure it was properly tacked. Again testing with the bottom ring for gap... it is tight to the ring, which I believe is good! I made some trefoil out of 6mm dowel lengths- I made 3x 90cm trefoil's out of nine pieces of single dowel + some wood glue... I cut them into pieces 30cm long and plan on trimming them later. Lastly, bought another router bit- a bigger 45 degree one- in hopes that it lessened my routing woes... It seemed to do the trick, because I managed to chamfer all three rings fairly satisfactorily. It left a little bit of a lip on the top of the rings... ...but some patience and sandpaper cleaned that right off! AND THAT'S ALL I HAVE SO FAR! I'm now up to date. So yeah. Next step is to use the trefoil lengths + rings to make the neck cage. I'm looking forward to it- I just need to remember not to rush this. I look forward to posting more next time. Sorry this post has been picture heavy with little descriptions- it's late at night and I want to sleep. Until next time!
  13. Extraordinary... I'll be following this closely, this is going to look amazing when it's done! I lost it when I saw the doodles all over the chair- I love how kids really get into the building spirit... here's my son Xander helping me make sure my Dalek's arm was 'plunger fresh'. Best of luck with the rest of the build, mate!
  14. Brilliant... over 10yrs later these files are still helping the budding builder- these are just what the Doctor ordered! Muchas gracias señor!
  15. Welcome mate! I'm hoping to some day add a TARDIS and K9 to the collection- I'm starting with a Dalek and am perhaps half way through... yes, as the guys say, tell us what's on your mind re: style of build you're going for!