Welcome to Project Dalek

You need to be a member in order to access our content.

 

Click Here To Join!

 

For instant access to the plans and all Forum features, choose Active Membership.

Aussie Kev

Active Members
  • Content count

    127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Aussie Kev last won the day on March 4

Aussie Kev had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

67 Excellent

About Aussie Kev

  • Rank
    On Spiridon
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    dalek.dreamer.1@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mudgee region N.S.W Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

756 profile views
  1. Hand filed the 2 pieces of tubing to get a better fit onto the rear of the skirt chassis. Just a scratch. This project has drawn blood a few times. I do a lot of hand filing because some of those edges are razor sharp. Final test fitting for the No 8 left hand side piece to the texta marks. Final test fitting for the No 9 right side piece to the texta marks. Now the 2 pieces are a mirror image of each other. Set up the g-clamps. Welded in the 8th and 9th piece of reinforcing tubing for the castor wheels. Marked the 2 pieces of sheet metal to be cut off. Had to grind and file off 1 of the welds that was holding the base to the skirt. Took the base off the skirt chassis. Then cut off the 2 pieces of excess sheet metal. Did some filing of the sharp edge's. Progress so far after putting the base back onto the skirt chassis. Back to the No 8 piece of reinforcing for the 8th castor wheel. This is the quick easy one to do. That's because the black texta lines are at right angles, about 90 degree to the square tubing of the reinforcing piece. Everything lines up.
  2. Now to make a start on the No 8 and No 9 piece of reinforcing. No 8 piece will be the easy piece to do. This is because it is exactly located where it should be in the base. The castor is between the texta pen lines. There is the same gap on the right hand side of the castor to the base, and the same gap on the left hand side of the castor to the base. The No 9 piece will be the difficult piece to do. The castor wheel moved when I first tek-screwed it into position. The other 8 castors fitted good. There is a bigger gap on the right hand side of the castor to the base. There is a smaller gap on the left hand side of the castor to the base. Didn't fix this problem before, because you couldn't see the castor from the outside. Now have to fix this problem to get the 2 pieces of reinforcing tubing to look to be at the same angles to the skirt chassis. No 8 piece to put in the 1/8 inch pilot hole. Then put in the 3rd tek-screw. Put the skirt and base onto the stand, to look at this problem. Walked past this thing plenty of times trying to work out what to do next. Simple solution. Just poke my finger underneath to hold up the tek-screw exactly in the middle of the bolt hole for the castor wheel. While holding up the tek-screw with 1 finger, I can then hold the 2 spacer plates with 2 more fingers. Now I can mark this side with the texta pen. Now I have both sides marked for the guide to put in the reinforcing piece of tubing. Test piece of tubing, but it is 1/4 inch too short. Used the test piece as a template to cut the left hand and right hand pieces.
  3. Cut too much metal off this piece. Just have to do another piece of tubing. Gap is way to wide to weld. Final cutting, filing and test fitting the 2 pieces. G-clamped and welded. Now up to 7 out of 9 pieces of reinforcing done. 4 pieces of sheet metal to be cut off. Cleaned off the texta pen lines with sandpaper and a paper towel. Then re-marked a new texta line against the edge of the 1/2 inch tubing. Took the base off the skirt frame again. Then cut off the 4 pieces of sheet metal and done some hand filing. Progress so far. While the base is off the skirt chassis, this is now the time to start on the more difficult end of the base that I have been avoiding. Prepared some pieces of sheet metal to put back onto the base. Welded 2 pieces of sheet metal back onto the rear part of the base. Grinding the welds, and done some filing. Panel beating with the hammer to get a straighter finish. Put the tek-screws for the 4 castor wheels into the reinforcing pieces of square tubing.
  4. Adding the extra tek-screws for the 3 reinforcing pieces of tubing for the 3 castors. Marking the sheet metal to be cut off. Removed the base off the skirt. Getting rid of these sharp edges. Progress so far. The front half of the skirt chassis now has 3 castor wheels done. The rear half of the skirt chassis. This is going to be different and more difficult.. Mistake was made. Now I realise that I should not have cut off the sheet metal months ago, above where these 2 rear castors will go. Going to do the easier reinforcing pieces for 2 of the rear castors. That makes 5 out of 9 done. Back to the front half of the skirt, to do 2 more reinforcing pieces of tubing. Used these 2 pieces of metal flat as a spacer to mark the texta pen lines the same distance from the tek-screws. Prepared the next 2 pieces of tubing.
  5. Progress so far. Have the 3 reinforcing pieces of square tubing fitted for the 3 castors in the front half of the skirt chassis. Some photos of some ideas that I am working on. I have said some rude words, and insults about these mobility scooters in the past when not on the forum. This 3 wheeled mobility scooter is a different story. With a 6 foot (1,800mm) turning circle, I'm now impressed. Thanks kindly for the positives about this topic!
  6. These welds are in the way, and making things harder to do. Going to grind off the welds. Mistake was done. Took the base off the skirt frame. Grinding and filing the welds. Put the base back onto the skirt. Then found out I was grinding the wrong welds. Easy mistake to do because everything looks different when it's upside down. Took the base back off the skirt. Now another attempt at the grinding and filing the correct welds. Got the correct welds done this time. More marking, cutting and filing the right hand side and left hand side pieces to fit. Bit more trimming with the cutting wheel in the grinder, and some more filing work. The right hand side is ready to weld. The middle part is not quite in the middle of the 2 texta pen lines. I can still get the 2 tek-screws into the 1/2 inch square tubing. The left hand side is ready to weld. Somehow managed to get the 1/2 inch square tubing exactly between the texta lines. Set up the g-clamps and welded in the 2 pieces of square tubing. This is how it looks so far.
  7. Back to the skirt chassis to add the pieces of 1/2 inch square tubing to reinforce the mountings for some castor wheels. Going to try the skirt and base with 5 little swivelling castor wheels to see how it works. Had 4 wheels fitted. Then 9 wheels fitted. Now back to 5 wheels. Took the base off the skirt. Wire wheel cleaned some pieces of 1/2 inch tubing and some of the bottom of the skirt to prepare for welding. Put the base back onto the skirt to start on the 1st piece. Working on the 1st piece of tubing. Marking, cutting and filing a few times to fit. Got out the full exchange bottle of mig gas. Guess what was waiting for me in the back of the welder where the gas bottle goes. Those white egg sacks are the classic signs of a Red Back Spiders nest. In Canada and the US, I think they are called Black Widow Spiders. Got out the air blower and the brush to clean off the whole welder after that surprise. Full bottle of Argoshield Light mig gas, ready to go. Texta pen lines everywhere to try and work this problem out, Final check on how the piece of tubing fits. G-clamped. Tack welded and allowed to cool off. Now to welding with a lot of little welds. Used this piece of tubing as a guide to work out how to do the right hand side and the left hand side. Looks good to me. Marked out where I want the 1/2 inch tubing to go, so I know the 2 tek-screws will go into the reinforcing piece of tubing for the castor wheel. Prepared the next 2 pieces of tubing with some angle cuts. Got the right hand side and left hand side pieces roughly done.
  8. I might be a bit late. Like 12 days late. I make up these threaded hollow aluminium tubes from 16.0mm tubing. Also with 5/8 inch UNF fine threads with the half nuts. Have 3 available, MK1, MK2 and MK 3. Also some of the tapered eye stalk pieces from mild steel tubing. Can also do some straight pieces of 25mm tubing with some spacers to go onto the 16mm tubing. Can post some pictures later to see what I mean. Let me know if your interested in something.
  9. Back to the skirt chassis. Been 1 to 2 months making the base from square tubing. Now I can continue the work on the skirt chassis because I have the base fitted, and also have the little castor wheels fitted, The base is an important part of this skirt chassis design. The swivelling castor wheels are partly inside the base. The castor wheels are then tek-screwed through the base and into the bottom of the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt frame. Without the base fitted, it has been impossible to exactly know where to fit the swivelling castor wheels. Onto the skirt. Minimum of 4 castor wheels to get the skirt frame mobile. Now have 9 X 2.5 inch swivelling castors fitted. There is space for 11 wheels, but I only have 10 wheels. With 9 castors fitted, there is a lot of available floor space to work with. Now I know where some of the castors will be placed, I can work on the reinforcement pieces of 1/2 inch square tubing to fit the skirt chassis. No photos left. Till next week.
  10. Warning about Alibaba. If you are not careful, then you are going to get ripped off real fast. It is my personal opinion, and no one else's that Alibaba is dodgy to deal with, and just a big scam. I have had 2 registered Alibaba accounts. 1st a personal account, 2nd a fake business account. I wasted months of part time effort trying to buy from the Chinese manufactures direct from China through the Alibaba website. I have sent emails, and asked for quotations through Alibaba. They will advertise selling 1 item. When you make enquiry's, the minimum order is then 100 items or 1,000 items. Trying to get postage prices is painful, like trying to extract teeth. When you get a postage price, it is way over the top of what you would expect to pay. They will rip you right off in the postage and packaging price's I have bought stainless steel hollow balls through ebay for AU3.70 and AU$4.00 each including free postage all the way direct from China to my home address in Australia. Sure they were 96mm diameter instead of the 100mm advertised price. But hey, the price is cheap enough. I still have a bee in my bonnet about Alibaba. I can't even remember my passwords to log back in to my 2 accounts. I take full responsibility for warning you about dealing with Alibaba, even if I get a negative comment. Be careful!
  11. Then used the big screw driver to make sure the tek-screw tightened up in the 11 screw holes. Now have the base tek-screwed to the skirt chassis. Marked the base with the texta pen, for the position of where the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt chassis sits on the base. This is because I want to put the tek-screw holes to fit the castor wheels in the middle of the 1/2 inch tubing. Drilled all the 36 holes with the 1/8 inch drill bit. Then put a small chamfer and hand filed all the 36 holes on the top side and underneath side of the base. Put a small chamfer, and filed all the 11 holes in both sides of the bottom of the skirt chassis. Put the base back onto the bottom of the skirt chassis with the 11 bigger tek-screws. With all those 1/8 inch pilot drill holes in the base, I can now drill all the 1/8 inch holes into the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt. Now to put the 36 little tek-screws into those 36 pilot drill holes. Removed all the 36 tek-screws. Yahoo. Now got a mobile skirt chassis with the minimum of 4 little castor wheels.
  12. Hey Meme. Good to hear from you. The impossible dream is getting a little closer. Next post, the combined skirt and base is mobile on 4 little wheels. No having to carry it around any more. Just have to re-check the writing and photo numbers a few times, to make sure it sounds right.
  13. Back to the skirt chassis. Used the 2 grinders to level off the welds on the skirt bottom. Used some files to finish the surface of the underneath side of the skirt bottom. Marked out the centre of the 11 pieces of square tubing on the skirt bottom. Used a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill a pilot hole in these 11 pieces. Clamped the base and skirt chassis together. Used the 1/8 inch pilot drill holes in the skirt chassis as a guide to drill through the base section for the 11 holes. What to do next. Grabbed a piece of 1 inch tubing for a practice piece to see which size drill bits to use next, to suit the metal tek-screws. Used a 3/16 inch drill bit to drill all the way through the 1/8 inch pilot holes in the base and skirt chassis. The drilling point of the tek-screw is a tight fit in the 3/16 inch hole. This 3/16 inch drill hole is now the pilot hole to force the tek-screw to drill in a straight line. Then used a 7/32 inch drill bit to drill only the outside drill hole of the base. This then allows the tek-screw to sit inside the base. Used the countersink drill bit to put a small chamfer on the 11 drill holes. Then a clean up with the fine grade file to get rid of some sharp edges. Used 1 fine threaded tek-screw to cut the threads for the 11 drill holes.
  14. Set the base up again on the template with all the g-clamps. Checking all the measurements to the template pen lines. Somehow I managed to get a perfect join on the 1st attempt. No need to re-mark the texta pen line and having to remove the base off the template to re-cut or re-file the join, like I've had to do before a few times. Mig welded the last join. Darn run out of Argoshield Light shielding gas before I started. The pressure guage showed just a tiny amount of mig gas. Everytime I started a weld, there would be a little be a little bit of shielding gas, and then it would stop. Well that took at least 20 to 30 little zap welds. But I got there in the end. Again removed the g-clamps and put the base onto the concrete floor. After some grinding and sanding, this is how the last join turned out. Hooray. Finally have the basic frame for the MK1 base done from mild steel square tubing. Done some panel beating where the joins were welded together. After panel beating both sides of the sheet metal, I was able to remove a lot of the twisting of the square tubing. One side of the base sits flat on the template. The other side of the base has a bend in it. This bent side can be pushed down by hand to the template. This little 1/2 inch wide piece of sheet metal was needed for the join.
  15. Getting some more energy and enthusiasm for the base, now that I'm up to the last piece and the last join. Going to add the writing with the photos this time, so you can get a better idea and understanding of what I get up to in the photos. Looking back over some previous posts, I might not have done enough writing when in a hurry to do a bigger post with more photo's. Back to the build. Set the base up on the template with some g-clamps. The left side of the base sits 7mm to the outside of the right side of the base at the join. The left side piece can easily be pushed inwards 5 to 6mm, to meet up with the right hand side piece of the base. This will work out to be alright, because it will put a spring load to push the base outwards from the template. G-clamped the left hand side piece to the pen line on the template. Then marked the line to cut off the excess piece of square tubing. Removed the g-clamps and put the base onto the concrete floor. Now cut off the excess piece of tubing. Set the base up on the template with the g-clamps. Test trying how everything fits on the template. Removed the g-clamps off the base. Done some hand filing of the metal surfaces to get a better join. Re-fitted the g-clamps again. Then to mark out the section of tubing to be cut, to get the 5 inch wide gap. Removed the g-clamps and put the base onto the concrete floor. Now to cut the section of tubing. Used the big fencing pliers to bend out the sheet metal piece. Now to panel beat both sides of the sheet metal with the hammer with the machined flat face. Used the wire wheel in the grinder to clean off the surface rust. Turned the base over to the other side to mark the piece of metal to be cut off. This side is easier to work with when cutting off the excess pieces. Hand filed off all the sharp edge's.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • chris harper

      Saturday spent fixing first bit of 6mm bendy mdf to my shoulder frame, I had a couple of clamps but a friend lent me about 8 and needed every one. My son in law loaned me his multi tool which cut like a dream, however, he needs it for work so had to give it back so went to Wickes and bought one for £25, a bit cheaper than his top of the range model but it still does a great job. Have fibre glassed my dome plug after waxing the he'll out of it, fingers crossed it will come off ok.
       
      · 1 reply
    • chris harper

      My dalek will have a name, talking to my friend about old films, and we talked about the  Eiger Sanction, and came up with the name Hemlock, so now my half finished skirt, nearly fully sanded dome plug and shoulder frame has a name...Hemlock
       
      · 0 replies
    • DathandsomeDalek

      Hello! I joined a few days ago and I'm trying to see how this site works
      · 1 reply
    • project one

      Waiting for hemispheres.
      · 3 replies
    • John  »  monkeytennis

      Many thanks for donating, to support the cost of Forum hosting. Very much appreciated.
      · 0 replies