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Aussie Kev

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Aussie Kev last won the day on March 4

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About Aussie Kev

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    dalek.dreamer.1@gmail.com

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    Mudgee region N.S.W Australia

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  1. I have been enjoying reading your new topic. I am still on my 1st build. I now have my 2nd electric wheelchair. These toys are great fun to drive. That info about the grey tires, now explains a lot I didn't know about them. You find about that solenoid and the electric brakes real fast when you nearly slid off the seat at full speed. Lucky for the seat belt. I now have the 500watt electric motors for plenty of grunt. I have even taken it out the front, trying to do circle work in the dirt. The hardest thing I have found is going in reverse. When you go forwards and turn to the right, you turn to the right. Going backwards, when you turn to the right, this thing goes to the left. Hair raising ride going backwards. Still a lot to learn about driving these things. Kev.
  2. Here is the 5 out of 9 pieces of reinforcing tubing for the swivelling castor wheels. 7 out of 9 pieces of reinforcing done. The 8th and 9th pieces are now done. All 9 pieces of reinforcing for the swivelling castor wheels are now done. Heat distortion of the skirt chassis. There has been only a little bending of the skirt chassis. Quite incredible, when you consider the amount of welding work that has been done. There has been some bending of the base. The base can still be used, because it can bend. 40 little tek-screws, and 11 long tek-screws can pull the base back straight to the skirt chassis. Now to see if I can give an explanation to this skirt chassis design. The skirt frame could normally be done with thinner, lighter weight materials. This then has a lower structural strength in the frame, but still strong enough to get the job done. The base could normally be done with thicker, stronger and heavier materials. This then puts a more structural strength in the base. So the more substantial base is where the swivelling castor wheels, and the seat frame is attached. The base can also be used to attach the electric drive unit and battery's from an electric wheelchair or mobility scooter. There is a method for Kev's mad idea's. This skirt chassis is made from heavier materials in a different build method. This then has a high structural strength in the chassis. So the stronger skirt is where the swivelling castor wheels, and the seat frame is attached. The skirt chassis is also going to be used to attach the electric drive unit and battery's, and steering unit with the controls from a 3 wheel mobility scooter. The base is made from thinner, lighter weight materials. This then has a lower structural strength in the base. The base is to be used for the outside look and appearance of the base. The base is also used to attach the flexible rubber or plastic strip to the outside. Here is a look at the mobile skirt, base and castors.
  3. Now to the No 9 piece of reinforcing for the 9th castor wheel. This will be the tricky one to do. The cut out piece of metal from the base is not perfect. This then moves the black texta lines over. So the texta lines are not at 90 degree angle to the reinforcing piece of tubing. Used a 1.5 inch wide piece of sheet metal to mark out the centre line of the 1/2 inch square tubing. Marked out the centre line of the reinforcing piece of tubing. Set up the castor to some of the texta pen lines. Only 1 tek-screw will be in the centre of the tubing. The other 3 tek-screws will be out of centre to the tubing. Moved the castor wheel. Now I can get 3 tek-screws in the middle of the square tubing. Now to drilling the pilot drill holes and fitting the 4 tek-screws. Now have the 8th and 9th piece of reinforcing tubing on the skirt chassis with the 8th and 9th castor wheel tek-screwed into place. Took the base off the skirt. Chamfering and filing all the 51 holes on the underneath side of the base. Then chamfered and filed the 51 holes on the top surface of the base. Then I chamfered and filed the 51 holes on the underneath side of the skirt chassis. A look at the No 8 tek-screw holes in the skirt chassis. A look at the No 9 tek-screw holes that I had trouble with in the skirt chassis. 3 holes were in the centre of the tubing. The 4th hole still screwed into the 1/2 inch tubing.
  4. Hand filed the 2 pieces of tubing to get a better fit onto the rear of the skirt chassis. Just a scratch. This project has drawn blood a few times. I do a lot of hand filing because some of those edges are razor sharp. Final test fitting for the No 8 left hand side piece to the texta marks. Final test fitting for the No 9 right side piece to the texta marks. Now the 2 pieces are a mirror image of each other. Set up the g-clamps. Welded in the 8th and 9th piece of reinforcing tubing for the castor wheels. Marked the 2 pieces of sheet metal to be cut off. Had to grind and file off 1 of the welds that was holding the base to the skirt. Took the base off the skirt chassis. Then cut off the 2 pieces of excess sheet metal. Did some filing of the sharp edge's. Progress so far after putting the base back onto the skirt chassis. Back to the No 8 piece of reinforcing for the 8th castor wheel. This is the quick easy one to do. That's because the black texta lines are at right angles, about 90 degree to the square tubing of the reinforcing piece. Everything lines up.
  5. Now to make a start on the No 8 and No 9 piece of reinforcing. No 8 piece will be the easy piece to do. This is because it is exactly located where it should be in the base. The castor is between the texta pen lines. There is the same gap on the right hand side of the castor to the base, and the same gap on the left hand side of the castor to the base. The No 9 piece will be the difficult piece to do. The castor wheel moved when I first tek-screwed it into position. The other 8 castors fitted good. There is a bigger gap on the right hand side of the castor to the base. There is a smaller gap on the left hand side of the castor to the base. Didn't fix this problem before, because you couldn't see the castor from the outside. Now have to fix this problem to get the 2 pieces of reinforcing tubing to look to be at the same angles to the skirt chassis. No 8 piece to put in the 1/8 inch pilot hole. Then put in the 3rd tek-screw. Put the skirt and base onto the stand, to look at this problem. Walked past this thing plenty of times trying to work out what to do next. Simple solution. Just poke my finger underneath to hold up the tek-screw exactly in the middle of the bolt hole for the castor wheel. While holding up the tek-screw with 1 finger, I can then hold the 2 spacer plates with 2 more fingers. Now I can mark this side with the texta pen. Now I have both sides marked for the guide to put in the reinforcing piece of tubing. Test piece of tubing, but it is 1/4 inch too short. Used the test piece as a template to cut the left hand and right hand pieces.
  6. Cut too much metal off this piece. Just have to do another piece of tubing. Gap is way to wide to weld. Final cutting, filing and test fitting the 2 pieces. G-clamped and welded. Now up to 7 out of 9 pieces of reinforcing done. 4 pieces of sheet metal to be cut off. Cleaned off the texta pen lines with sandpaper and a paper towel. Then re-marked a new texta line against the edge of the 1/2 inch tubing. Took the base off the skirt frame again. Then cut off the 4 pieces of sheet metal and done some hand filing. Progress so far. While the base is off the skirt chassis, this is now the time to start on the more difficult end of the base that I have been avoiding. Prepared some pieces of sheet metal to put back onto the base. Welded 2 pieces of sheet metal back onto the rear part of the base. Grinding the welds, and done some filing. Panel beating with the hammer to get a straighter finish. Put the tek-screws for the 4 castor wheels into the reinforcing pieces of square tubing.
  7. Adding the extra tek-screws for the 3 reinforcing pieces of tubing for the 3 castors. Marking the sheet metal to be cut off. Removed the base off the skirt. Getting rid of these sharp edges. Progress so far. The front half of the skirt chassis now has 3 castor wheels done. The rear half of the skirt chassis. This is going to be different and more difficult.. Mistake was made. Now I realise that I should not have cut off the sheet metal months ago, above where these 2 rear castors will go. Going to do the easier reinforcing pieces for 2 of the rear castors. That makes 5 out of 9 done. Back to the front half of the skirt, to do 2 more reinforcing pieces of tubing. Used these 2 pieces of metal flat as a spacer to mark the texta pen lines the same distance from the tek-screws. Prepared the next 2 pieces of tubing.
  8. Progress so far. Have the 3 reinforcing pieces of square tubing fitted for the 3 castors in the front half of the skirt chassis. Some photos of some ideas that I am working on. I have said some rude words, and insults about these mobility scooters in the past when not on the forum. This 3 wheeled mobility scooter is a different story. With a 6 foot (1,800mm) turning circle, I'm now impressed. Thanks kindly for the positives about this topic!
  9. These welds are in the way, and making things harder to do. Going to grind off the welds. Mistake was done. Took the base off the skirt frame. Grinding and filing the welds. Put the base back onto the skirt. Then found out I was grinding the wrong welds. Easy mistake to do because everything looks different when it's upside down. Took the base back off the skirt. Now another attempt at the grinding and filing the correct welds. Got the correct welds done this time. More marking, cutting and filing the right hand side and left hand side pieces to fit. Bit more trimming with the cutting wheel in the grinder, and some more filing work. The right hand side is ready to weld. The middle part is not quite in the middle of the 2 texta pen lines. I can still get the 2 tek-screws into the 1/2 inch square tubing. The left hand side is ready to weld. Somehow managed to get the 1/2 inch square tubing exactly between the texta lines. Set up the g-clamps and welded in the 2 pieces of square tubing. This is how it looks so far.
  10. Back to the skirt chassis to add the pieces of 1/2 inch square tubing to reinforce the mountings for some castor wheels. Going to try the skirt and base with 5 little swivelling castor wheels to see how it works. Had 4 wheels fitted. Then 9 wheels fitted. Now back to 5 wheels. Took the base off the skirt. Wire wheel cleaned some pieces of 1/2 inch tubing and some of the bottom of the skirt to prepare for welding. Put the base back onto the skirt to start on the 1st piece. Working on the 1st piece of tubing. Marking, cutting and filing a few times to fit. Got out the full exchange bottle of mig gas. Guess what was waiting for me in the back of the welder where the gas bottle goes. Those white egg sacks are the classic signs of a Red Back Spiders nest. In Canada and the US, I think they are called Black Widow Spiders. Got out the air blower and the brush to clean off the whole welder after that surprise. Full bottle of Argoshield Light mig gas, ready to go. Texta pen lines everywhere to try and work this problem out, Final check on how the piece of tubing fits. G-clamped. Tack welded and allowed to cool off. Now to welding with a lot of little welds. Used this piece of tubing as a guide to work out how to do the right hand side and the left hand side. Looks good to me. Marked out where I want the 1/2 inch tubing to go, so I know the 2 tek-screws will go into the reinforcing piece of tubing for the castor wheel. Prepared the next 2 pieces of tubing with some angle cuts. Got the right hand side and left hand side pieces roughly done.
  11. I might be a bit late. Like 12 days late. I make up these threaded hollow aluminium tubes from 16.0mm tubing. Also with 5/8 inch UNF fine threads with the half nuts. Have 3 available, MK1, MK2 and MK 3. Also some of the tapered eye stalk pieces from mild steel tubing. Can also do some straight pieces of 25mm tubing with some spacers to go onto the 16mm tubing. Can post some pictures later to see what I mean. Let me know if your interested in something.
  12. Back to the skirt chassis. Been 1 to 2 months making the base from square tubing. Now I can continue the work on the skirt chassis because I have the base fitted, and also have the little castor wheels fitted, The base is an important part of this skirt chassis design. The swivelling castor wheels are partly inside the base. The castor wheels are then tek-screwed through the base and into the bottom of the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt frame. Without the base fitted, it has been impossible to exactly know where to fit the swivelling castor wheels. Onto the skirt. Minimum of 4 castor wheels to get the skirt frame mobile. Now have 9 X 2.5 inch swivelling castors fitted. There is space for 11 wheels, but I only have 10 wheels. With 9 castors fitted, there is a lot of available floor space to work with. Now I know where some of the castors will be placed, I can work on the reinforcement pieces of 1/2 inch square tubing to fit the skirt chassis. No photos left. Till next week.
  13. Warning about Alibaba. If you are not careful, then you are going to get ripped off real fast. It is my personal opinion, and no one else's that Alibaba is dodgy to deal with, and just a big scam. I have had 2 registered Alibaba accounts. 1st a personal account, 2nd a fake business account. I wasted months of part time effort trying to buy from the Chinese manufactures direct from China through the Alibaba website. I have sent emails, and asked for quotations through Alibaba. They will advertise selling 1 item. When you make enquiry's, the minimum order is then 100 items or 1,000 items. Trying to get postage prices is painful, like trying to extract teeth. When you get a postage price, it is way over the top of what you would expect to pay. They will rip you right off in the postage and packaging price's I have bought stainless steel hollow balls through ebay for AU3.70 and AU$4.00 each including free postage all the way direct from China to my home address in Australia. Sure they were 96mm diameter instead of the 100mm advertised price. But hey, the price is cheap enough. I still have a bee in my bonnet about Alibaba. I can't even remember my passwords to log back in to my 2 accounts. I take full responsibility for warning you about dealing with Alibaba, even if I get a negative comment. Be careful!
  14. Then used the big screw driver to make sure the tek-screw tightened up in the 11 screw holes. Now have the base tek-screwed to the skirt chassis. Marked the base with the texta pen, for the position of where the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt chassis sits on the base. This is because I want to put the tek-screw holes to fit the castor wheels in the middle of the 1/2 inch tubing. Drilled all the 36 holes with the 1/8 inch drill bit. Then put a small chamfer and hand filed all the 36 holes on the top side and underneath side of the base. Put a small chamfer, and filed all the 11 holes in both sides of the bottom of the skirt chassis. Put the base back onto the bottom of the skirt chassis with the 11 bigger tek-screws. With all those 1/8 inch pilot drill holes in the base, I can now drill all the 1/8 inch holes into the 1/2 inch square tubing of the skirt. Now to put the 36 little tek-screws into those 36 pilot drill holes. Removed all the 36 tek-screws. Yahoo. Now got a mobile skirt chassis with the minimum of 4 little castor wheels.
  15. Hey Meme. Good to hear from you. The impossible dream is getting a little closer. Next post, the combined skirt and base is mobile on 4 little wheels. No having to carry it around any more. Just have to re-check the writing and photo numbers a few times, to make sure it sounds right.