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About Scinzon

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    At Maxtible's mansion
  • Birthday 24/02/90

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  1. Good to know. Yes, the welds look terrible, almost as terrible as mine, but they are most probably going to hold well (Hey, we are not welding to code specs anyway :P). Your build is coming along nicely. You have done a great work so far. Keep going!
  2. I like it! It looks like a pink Cadillac Dalek! Or Pinkie Pie's Dalek casing! Great work on this this build and fantastic imagination behind this build! I wish Dalek Candi every success with his mission.
  3. Welcome! EXTERMINIEREN !!
  4. Assuming that you mean the Shawcraft Mark 1, 2 & 3, the Schematics provide both the OutSide Diameter (OSD) and the InSideDiameter (ISD). The dimensions do not include the chamfer. The chamfer is a simple 45 Degrees that can be cut using a 45 Degree chamfering Router Bit and a Template or a Fence. Schematics: http://www.projectdalek.com/plans_downloads/
  5. What I meant is that the source of the problem should be identified before the problem can be resolved. In case of Circular Saws, these problems are not only bad for cosmetic reasons but they might indicate that an accident or failure of the tool is imminent. Like for example, if you are trying to cut thicker pieces of wood than your saw was designed to cut, if your blade is blunt, etc. Not knowing what Omega is trying to cut or what their set-up is, it would be pointless to speculate what the cause might be. Russell and Scanner, this is excellent advice, I am plusoneing it!
  6. Trackhappy has good points. This is especially true for units that look "new". Why would anyone let go of a new looking machine? That would be suspicious for me. Machines that look old have probably served their owners for years without problems but keep in mind, any warranty has expired a long time ago and spare parts might be a pain in the back of your casing to find. Welding machines are not like other machines. You can get a 100-year old Lathe or Bandsaw and it will most probably serve you for the next 100 years as much as the machines made a year ago. In welding however, you should want all the new improvements because they make your welding experience and your work better but if you don't have enough money to buy a new welder, and if you need a welder for a few welds every year and you find one for cheap that is in good condition, by all means, take the welder, take their arm, take their daughter or their son, or take them both (let us not be sexists). As for the torches/electrode-holders, it is always a good idea to stock space parts and consumables when they are available. Stick has no consumables, but MIG and TIG have. There are resources available about what models work with each machine, including cheaper as well as expensive models. Personally, I would not buy a welder unless all the leads, cables and connections are in good working order. As for the removable leads, yes, not being able to reverse the polarity of the neutron... ehm... electron flow, would be a waste of money but then again, if you get the machine for cheap and the machine covers your needs, go for it. Yes, ChuckE2009 is great and so is WeldingTipsAndTricks. check them out https://www.youtube.com/user/ChuckE2009 https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks
  7. 3D Print or CNC one and then mold it?
  8. 1. Make sure that your guide is 180 degrees true and flat. 2. Make sure that the saw does not make the guide bow while cutting. 3. Mark a line using a pencil along the guide. Make a cut. Check if the line is in place. If not, check the clamps and see #2. 4. Laser sights adds more variables. They have to be checked to make sure that they are perpendicular and parallel to the blade and that their line is perfectly centered to the kerf of the blade; ideally, the line would be exactly as thick as the kerf. Too much trouble if you ask me. It is far better to make sure that you rails or fence are true, flat and sturdy. For jigsaws, yes they work nice but jigsaws are not exactly precision tools. Also they might be hard to see unless you are working in low light, and working in low light is highly unwise. 5. Get expensive good quality machinist squares, a cheap-ish digital protractor and carpenters squares, framing squares and a speed square. You can do well without any of these, but you will end up wasting materials for testing purposes. These instruments, if properly calibrated with the machinist squares, will tell you what is wrong. 6. Battery tools are not as powerful as plug tools. Never trust the Wattage they claim, most of the time they make it out of thin air. For example, a 20V Tool, using a 5A battery will produce 100W. The plug type of the same tool (for example) can get up to 220V at ~13A (In Europe) which will produce up to 2860W. Of course each tool will "burn" as much "juice" as it needs, but "equivalents" for battery tools are usually greatly exaggerated. I never used a battery Circular Saw, but still, same things apply. Don't push it. Control the tool, but let it do it's job. And again, Don't push it! And down slow it either! Also never use the window-maker switch. 7. In any case, advise will be pointless unless you let us know how thick pieces are you trying to cut and what blade you are using.
  9. My apologies. Are we talking about the plaster reinforcing of a fiberglass mold or a 100% plaster mold? Acrylic Paint on "naked" plaster is not catastrophic. At least the water based acrylics that I have used many times to paint plastered walls did not result in a catastrophe. Why would anyone paint over a gel coat? Paint directly on the plaster and forget the gel, wall paints are meant to seal plaster. I have a feeling that you guys are talking about something from the Dalek Builder's Manual, which I no not own at the moment. I thought we were talking about a plaster reinforcing, well, John is correct... EXTERMINATE ALL INFERIOR POSTS !!! EXTERMINATE !!! EXTERMINATE !!! EXTERMINATE !!!
  10. Russelsuthern is correct. Furthermore, there are issues like space and money, size of workshop, lack of tools, lack of machinery, lack of measuring instruments, lack of materials, lack of knowledge, lack of experience and practice etc. It is not fun to build something like a Dalek, unless you do it safety, you have the space to enjoy it and you build it to last without wasting too much materials. Most people here also have jobs and families and building stuff is more or less a hobby for them, so if they only have a couple of hours to spent in building every week, it is not surprising that it will take many months or years.
  11. I never used any wood putty like the ones described. I use Automotive Body Filler, aka Metal Putty. Works fine, fills even small gaps and can even be polished to a high gloss finish, if desired.
  12. Here in Europe we plaster walls and then paint over them with, well... paint for walls. This seals the wall. Maybe acrylic paint will do what you want; this paint is actually a "latex" thingy. Actually, any paint should do what you want.
  13. MIG = Metal Inert Gas (Argon mix gas would be the "Inert Gas" part) Flux Core is not MIG. Flux Core is FCAW (Flux Cored Arc Wire) The Flux is inside the wire, just like with Electronics Solder. Sure, you do FCAW with a MIG welder and and a dedicated FCAW welder is just a MIG without the gas hose fitting (and thus a waste of money), but if someone says "MIG" people will tell givem advise about MIG, so we end up with messed up projects and frustration and money will most probably be wasted and all that. Double Shielded FCAW is still no MIG even if Inert Gas is used. There are quite a lot of difference between Flux Core and and MIG. See here for information about MIG, FCAW, SMAW and TIG welding: For the record, dedicated FCAW welders are not that bad but only because you can find used ones for cheaper than used MIG welders, so if you see that you are not going to need MIG in the near future, then then a cheap, used FCAW welder would do nicely. It is also more portable and will do nicely for outdoors projects. Personally I would prefer to spent a few more money and get an actual MIG welder. Skin protection should not be taken lightly but it does not have to be expensive. Get out of your closet your old clothes and pick the ones that are made by cotton or real leather. Hold them against a bright light and if you cannot see the light through them, then they will do fine. Jeans are great. Also wear boots. Real manly man work boots, with steel toe if possible. And gloves! Gloves can save you from nasty burns, and when the steel contacts your glove and you hear that hissing sound, you will be glad that you did spent the 4-5$ for that pair of gloves and your finger is just warm and not burned to the bone. Auto-Darkening helmets are not expensive. You can get them for 40-50$. No need to go for professional grade stuff because you are not going to weld like seven hours every day, for years. Also grab a dozen replacement shields because the helmet will most probably last for more than the shields will be available.
  14. No one will see the wood. People will see the paint. If the wood has a texture, paint will cling and take the shape of it, resulting in the texture being copied to the layer of paint. This is also true for body filler, so if you make the fillings look like welds you can create the illusion of welded metal. D If the base material is visible then your paint layer was too thin and you need to add another. Personally I would use Spray Paint or an Air Powered Paint Gun or even an Airbrush. DO NOT trust laser sights. Unless of course your tool cost like 1000$. In this case they put good sights on them, but still, not better than a Guide Rail or Fence.
  15. Mineral spirits and Paint Thinner may be the same thing, with the only difference being that the first is pure and refined, while the second is recycled Mineral Spirits (or this is what I have been told). Mineral Spirits is called White Spirit in UK and most of Europe. Acetone based stuff will probably not work with Mineral Spirits but both should be Waterproof when dry. My apologies, "Pond" made me believe that you need something like the insulation used in aquariums. xD I guess that you want to seal the wood of your casing against weather? Then even water based Polyurethanes should work, no need to get something very specific. There is also Polyurethane for wooden floors and dance floors which is designed to be walked, stepped, danced and stomped on as well as mopped everyday and thus it will last for a log time. Even Polyurethane for outdoors furniture will work.