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John P Kelly

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John P Kelly last won the day on February 5

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About John P Kelly

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    In the Kaled dome
  • Birthday 05/09/78

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  1. Yes, that's the one!
  2. It's OK, found it!
  3. Oh, also, there was a diagram posted somewhere showing the Shawcraft dome rotation method, with the three T-Prongs, wheels and control rod... would be really useful to add to the detail I'm sending to my metal guy. But I can't find it. Does anyone know what and where it is? Thanks.
  4. So, bit of a lull at the moment, as having to organize the cutting of the steel parts for the dome; the three steel prongs and the supporting struts for the control stick. I tried cutting both out on my bandsaw, but the mild steel sheet I got is too hard and the blade kept on wandering. So I'm handing it all over to my metal-guy Steve again! Once that's done, I can paint and lacquer the dome. After that, it'll just be the hemis/eyeball and the neck mesh I'm waiting on. I have, however, cut the battery holder (x3! - for spares) based on Simon's Vidor battery measurements and much examination of the little footage that exists of the vintage ones. I used spare 1.5mm aluminium from the collars, bent around a custom made wooden block the same size as a Vidor battery, and am going to rivet on with the same 3.2mm rivets I used for the slats. In fact, I've cut 3 twice, as the first set were cut too short, so the flat bits that sit on the shoulder surface measure about 3/4" instead of the 1 1/2" I think they should be - and that bugged me until I gave in and cut new ones. So, does anyone want one, two or all of the 'first attempt' spares I have? Not looking for any profit, just a fiver each to cover material and postage? Pictures below,including one of the longer second attempts. The cut edges just need a sand or file down.
  5. I've had a correspondence with Associated Perforators and Weavers, www.apw.co.uk . They sent me some samples of their round hole perforated mesh, including the finest pattern of 1.5mm hole with 2.5mm spacing. This was really good for low visibility, and I think would have worked well. However, the thinnest aluminium sheet they can produce this on is 1mm, same as my sample, which is just too thick. As it's perforated rather than expanded, It's too stiff to be workable, and I think that all but industrial strength staple guns wouldn't get through (the originals appear to have been attached with an upholstery stapler). You could aim for the holes, I guess, but it's still going to be really difficult to work with and bend round the neck bin drum. Really, you'd need no thicker than .5mm, ideally even less. Does anyone have an idea of how thick the aluminium mesh on the movie Daleks was? It looks only slightly thicker than a foil on the pictures I've got.
  6. Well, there is always the possibility that the persons Jon or I spoke to were misinformed. For such an unusual mesh, it seems weird to make it prohibitively expensive. Give them a call, see if you can persuade them to run us off a few sheets of 922a!
  7. They provide mesh measurements in their brochure; isn't the 801A a bit too coarse? Or am I misremembering?
  8. This 'bulge' is almost certainly an imprint of resin-proof tape that was used to seal the two sides of Shawcraft's moulds. They really should have sanded it away!
  9. They do make 922a, just not as regular production. Special order. Anyway, go for it. They were nice when I spoke to them. And, of course, I'd be willing to chip in for the correct aluminium gauze!
  10. Hi, yes, I saw the post, have just responded.. not entirely positively I'm afraid! I'm not sure anyone is 100% certain what was used on the TV props, but I agree it doesn't seem likely to be exactly the same material as the movie props. But beggars can't be choosers, and I'd currently accept any suitable gauge aluminium gauze! I'm talking about the two steel rods either side of the dome control stick, and the three steel prongs which hold the dome on. The eye is just 1" aluminium tubing purchased online, the acrylic tube is 1 1/4" with an inner diameter of 26mm off eBay. It's a nice snug fit, no movement or rattle. You may be right about the wooden eyesticks, as it would be the easiest material to taper than metal or plastic. But I suspect the replacement eyes for Power and many of the second movie Daleks may have been aluminium tubing. I guess for illuminated eyed Daleks with wood eyesticks they'd have bored a hole down the length somehow?
  11. Without wishing to put a dampner on things... I did ask the Expanded Mesh company for a sample of 922A about a month ago. Unfortunately, it's not in general production, and the minimum order is about £500 worth. They didn't have any samples either. I think MovieDalek had been in touch with them when he did his mix n match builds. The 801a is, IIRC, too coarse for our purposes...
  12. Aw, thanks, 'looks original' is pretty much the highest compliment I could ask for! I'm really chuffed the dome rotation looks like it's going to work, I had expected difficulties there. My steel arrived today, and I de-rigged the whole thing last night; but can't immediately cut and fit the parts as I'm waiting for a new bandsaw blade; will certainly do a video, but it might be a few days away! I've decided to attempt to cut the steel bits myself, using a combination of bandsaw and mitresaw. It's mild steel, so I'm hoping it'll be moderately workable; 1.5mm for the stick supports, 2mm for the prongs. The bandsaw blade I ordered is 24tpi, so I'm hoping it'll do the job ok if I go nice and slowly. If it all goes horribly wrong, then I'll be taking a groveling visit to my metal-guru again.... The neck mesh...hmm. Well, I've not seen anything yet that I'm keen on using, and as your Bion contact looks like a dead end, I feel a bit stuck on that front.... I'm still looking through round hole perforated aluminium sheets (rather like a finer version of what is now on Stuart Evans' Dalek), but as yet haven't found a suitable pattern on thin enough material.
  13. Control stick for the dome and eye stick test fitting. All good. It even rotates OK with just the control rod in contact with the inner edge of the neck bin top. But it certainly needs the two steel supports and, of course, the three steel prongs to keep the dome centred. Steel on order!
  14. If you look at my build diary, you can see what the RAL7001 looks like in-situ. I was very happy with it; to my eye, it's got the right contrast and just enough of a hint of blue. It looks quite light in directly sunlight, but can appear dark under artificial light.
  15. And done...with a spare. Just in case.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • chris harper

      Saturday spent fixing first bit of 6mm bendy mdf to my shoulder frame, I had a couple of clamps but a friend lent me about 8 and needed every one. My son in law loaned me his multi tool which cut like a dream, however, he needs it for work so had to give it back so went to Wickes and bought one for £25, a bit cheaper than his top of the range model but it still does a great job. Have fibre glassed my dome plug after waxing the he'll out of it, fingers crossed it will come off ok.
      · 1 reply
    • chris harper

      My dalek will have a name, talking to my friend about old films, and we talked about the  Eiger Sanction, and came up with the name Hemlock, so now my half finished skirt, nearly fully sanded dome plug and shoulder frame has a name...Hemlock
      · 0 replies
    • DathandsomeDalek

      Hello! I joined a few days ago and I'm trying to see how this site works
      · 1 reply
    • project one

      Waiting for hemispheres.
      · 3 replies
    • John  »  monkeytennis

      Many thanks for donating, to support the cost of Forum hosting. Very much appreciated.
      · 0 replies