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Stephen R

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Stephen R last won the day on February 1

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About Stephen R

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    In the jungles of Skaro
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    sjread2000@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Phelan, California USA

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  1. Hi Simon- I bought my 4" diameter steel balls off amazon- I hope the link works. https://www.amazon.com/Rome-704-S-Stainless-Polished-Diameter/dp/B0019ID32O I cut my gun box holes to 3.7 ish in diameter and the balls fit perfect. I still haven't drilled them yet, but that is next.
  2. Thanks Simon! I will go see how you drilled for the trefoil. I finished up gluing all the inside strips last night in the skirt- not photo worthy, lol. Tonight is sand and fill the outside angles on the skirt and make it look symmetrical- or at least like I kinda knew what I was doing when I put it all together!
  3. Hi Simon- Thanks as for the neck rings- no not yet. I cut the OD and just ran a small cut around the inside so I have an idea where to drill my 3 rod guide holes. I will work on them this week end. I'm thinking I will finish drilling the holes then cut the 45° angle on the outside then finish the ID cut out. I've been filling and sanding the mistakes on the gunbox, lol and gluing strips into the skirt section in place of fiber glassing it. Your build is looking great btw!
  4. Good Morning my friends! Not too much going on- just filling and sanding and you all know how much fun that is! I dragged all the pieces together and did a quick stack up just for inspiration- and boy I gotta tell you, if you ever get discouraged on your build or if you think it is taking for ever- just put it all together and stand back! You will get fired up again to do more work! Enjoy the day and make something!
  5. lol- I know, right Simon! I lucked out and the wife was out when I mixed the stuff up. I forgot how aromatic the stuff is from my teenage years when I used it on my cars. I let it sit outside for a few hours before I brought the gun box back into the house, lol. I filled the screw holes and will sand the box up before I mount it permanent in the shoulders.
  6. Good Morning everyone. I'm doing a few odds and ends now on the Dalek. I bought an adapter to make my headset go from stereo to mono for the microphone for the MK5 voice modulator. For those of you in the USA - I got it from Cable Wholesale. It is part number 30S1-04300 and cost a whole .38 cents. I also outlined the gun box holes in the shoulders and cut them out. Boy- was I off! lol. I'm going to have to do some filling once I get it mounted permanently! lol. This really is a fun project! More to come!
  7. Ok, now some pictures of the dreaded gun box! oh and before I forget- I soaked the hard board for the shoulders in the shower off and on for about 1/2 hour to get it soft enough to bend. I'd soak it, then go watch tv then go back and soak it, etc. I didn't use the bath tub to do a full soak since the wife would have gone ballistic for soaking wood in her tub, lol. Those of you that are married know about personal survival sometimes! The wife is tolerant up to a point! I then clamped it like crazy and let it dry for 2 days to keep the shape. It worked really well. This hard board is the 3/16 thickness you get at Lowe's here in the USA. On to the gun box with no plans! So I studied Adam's build and his pictures and the drawings I could find in the plans from here as well as everyone else's build diary and I came up with a cardboard trial. I looked more at Adam's build and trimmed off a whole lot of cardboard and just started cutting and playing with it. I came up with the following final configuration. Now, there was a whole lot of experimenting with making the front pieces before I came up with the above. I tried using a hole saw to cut the hole for the gazing ball (which I bought off amazon) but it was too small so I tried to make the hole larger with my sanding tool. As you can see the right hole looks like a critter chewed on it! ugh. So I made a little jig for my router to make the hole- it came out perfect! And it was the right size. I had read in one of the diaries a builder ( and I apologize for not remembering his name. I will find it and give him credit) of how he made a tool from a Xmas ornament to make the correct chamfer to fit the ball. I did the same thing and put it in my hand drill to sand the chamfer. As you can see it worked great! Tip- go slow with the drill! I turned it too fast and burned the sandpaper! lol. It gave a nice dark burnt wood burnish to the inside of the hole, ooops. So the gazing ball now sits in its little hole all nice and snug. I made the 2 back holding pieces as well and that was about all the life there was in the homemade sanding tool. So- following Adam's alignment procedure- I attached the gun box using "L" brackets and screws in the hopes they will be right, lol. Here are some pics of the gun box with the gazing ball retainer and screws set. I have removed the gun box from the frame and am currently sanding it to get it ready for Bondo filling of chips and screw heads and primer for painting. After I took off the gun box- I fitted the hard board that I posted previously above and attached. it. Once I get the gun box to the point of being ready- I will cut the holes in the shoulder board and fit it through for final attachment. Hope you all are doing well with your builds!
  8. The Aluminum looks great Simon!
  9. Hey Gjira! Welcome! You are going to find out this place is great! the build diaries here are so helpful and once your bitten by the build bug, you are toast! lol. I don't have a garage either- I am building mine outside on an old wooden table the neighbors were tossing out in the trash and then storing the bigger parts in my travel trailer, lol. Most of my inside work like measuring and pattern making are done on a 3ft x 3ft folding card table. So you don't need a huge area to build it. And like the others have said- build a few small items and they will give you inspiration to keep working on your Dalek. I keep my build manual- (which you have to order off this site if you don't have one yet!) and the plans always with in reach at home. Good Luck!
  10. Hi Tk7273- thank you! I'm having a blast making this.
  11. Good Morning all! Well the voice modulator worked much better! Tip- it helps to have the parts installed correctly and not all wonky! lol I wasn't sure if it was good until I played a recording for my wife I made and she asked who that was and if I took it off the TV. So, don't over think your outcome if you make one of these- lol. Making the MK5 is not hard if you know how to solder and have a basic knowledge of the components. I will post a video of it later once I upgrade my speakers and can speak a full sentence with out choking and going into "Exterminator" mode. So- here are some pics i took of the shoulder build. I'm making the frame from 1/2 inch ply as well, used my "special sanding stick" to get the angles to match so the hardboard lays flat when it is attached. I'm using Liquid Nails adhesive and my little air brad nailer to attach the hard board.
  12. Thanks Simon! some of the pics are actually over a few weeks span. I just waited till I had enough to start posting them. We are in the middle of a rain spell here in Southern California so I can only work on the beast during the week end right now for the big stuff. The small stuff I tinker with when I get home from work. So I was playing with the Voice Modulator last night. I bought a cheap headset with microphone and followed the videos that CDNGOOSE has posted on how to balance it and make it work. I had to go sit out in the car and plug all my stuff into the cigarette lighter to make it work, lol. My battery comes in in a week so I have to work in the car right now for the 12v power supply, lol. I got it to work some, but it just wasn't 100%. I went back in the house and took a closer look at my build. I noticed that the longer IC didnt look right in the socket so I pulled it out. It looked like it had been installed by a cross-eyed drunk! The little legs were all bent wrong and some were not even in the socket! I said it looked like a centipede that had play a game of twister and lost! (left foot blue, right hand red) lol. So I straightened the legs out carefully and re-inserted the IC into the socket. I ran out of time so I will try this again tonight.
  13. Hello Everyone! I'm finally getting some time to post a few pictures. I finally got all the parts in to finish the voice modulator pcb! The final missing resistor came in last Friday. I bought the amplifier on amazon and I am just waiting for my little battery to come in before I can play with it.
  14. I'm really enjoying following your build Simon! You are doing a great, clean job and your tips and ideas are helping me figure out some questions I have with my build. I'm headed to the swap meet tomorrow to look for some items to help me make tools and I am now going to add a few things to my list I see you have used! I'm looking forward to more of your project. keep up the good work!
  15. Howdy Everyone! I know this isn't correct for this one- but I can't resist. I was just fascinated with the claw version of the arm- so I went and made one. People at work got tired of me chasing them with it. This is made out of .750 or 3/4 mdf- which I was able to find- and then some 1" aluminum square tube I cut to length then cut one of the ends off to form a channel. (it pays to work at a manufacturing plant that has a machine shop- I go play a little when the machinists leave for the day) The threaded part is a small piece of threaded tube used in lamps- got it from Lowe's in the lighting section. The bolt in the center is a 5/16 sized carriage bolt and some 1 1/2 " diameter fender washers. I ground a flat on the bottom of the bolt so I can drill a hole and run the actuating wire thru it. I am thinking of using a hand brake cable from a bicycle that was mentioned in one of the build diaries that they were using for the Eye up and down movement. I think that it would be able to actuate the claw and is flexible so it will move inside of the arm. I still have to take the claw apart- finish sand on a few spots- drill a hole, then prime and paint silver.
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