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moviedalek

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moviedalek last won the day on November 29 2016

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  1. The sizes listed for the lens do sound pretty small to me, but maybe that would be right for the large mounts? It's a pity the photos are too low-res to scale up. It's hard to even see what shape they are. Anyone got any better shots? I seem to recall someone way back on the old MSN boards mentioning that they had seen a caravan towing light which matched these, but they weren't able to source any. Thinking about it, this was probably MBH too. The above Dalek is the same one that was later used in Asylum of the Daleks. I believe the dome is from an original classic prop, but the shoulders are replica.
  2. Those are Mark Barton Hill's replica versions, which were shot glasses painted red IIRC.
  3. I seem to have started building another Dalek… Whilst I still haven’t got around to photographing and doing a showcase thread on my 60’s build, I’ve got the building bug again so have decided to move on to the next bunch - the 70’s Daleks. I couldn't settle on which colour scheme to do, so my plan is to build one Dalek then take it through each of the different story styles in turn. Not sure how long I’ll keep it in each colour scheme for - probably until I get bored with it. The prop I’m going to base my replica on is the one with the movie style shoulder section, “Dalek Seven-2”. I’m not sure how much of this I will be building from new, as I expect I will take some sections from my 60’s build and remodel them into 70s versions. I never intended to keep two 60's Daleks, so one skirt and dome will probably form part of this Dalek. I’ve started out by building a new neck section. I bought this blockboard years ago for use on my other build, but then opted not to use it as I (mistakenly) believed it was too thin. Turns out it would have been fine, so I’ll use it on this. This must be about the ninth or tenth neck bin I’ve made but the first time I’ve ever made it the original way, with the eight struts sunk into slots cut into the wooden circles. Previously I’d always had angled struts screwed between two complete circles like stilts. All that cutting and filing seemed like a lot extra work to me, but the end result is quite strong. There are quite a few gaps in the blockboard, so it’ll need some filling but I’m not going to aim for a perfect finish since I think the slightly distressed appearance suits the look of the 70s props. I’ve also moulded up a new shoulder section from my existing mould. Pretty much the same as last time, with 9mm plywood inserts glassed into the top and bottom. One thing I will do slightly differently this time around are the arm boxes, which will have the stepped holes which were unique to the movie style shoulders built for television. I’ll probably continue to work on just these two sections for the moment, as I want to get some decent shots of the 60’s Dalek done before I start robbing bits off them. At least this will make me finally get around to that!
  4. It's all coming together now! Very nice, clean work you're doing here. Looking forward to seeing the collars and slats added! Shouldn't this thread be in the 60s TV section though? It's going to be a very nice and accurate replica of the 60's TV style.
  5. This was about seven years ago when they presumably still held plenty of the stuff in stock. From memory, the £40-ish sheet was quite small, about enough to do one Dalek. I needed to do two, so with postage it was pushing towards £100 which is one of the reasons I didn't go for it at the time. I took the cheap option and used Wireform.
  6. I never had a sample of 801A. I probably didn't spot it at the time. I'll try and get some shots of 922 from different angles though, as it probably is the closest in 'structure' to the original. A pity the minimum order is so high now. I probably should have bought some of this stuff when they had it in stock. From memory the minimum order was about £40 back then.
  7. I did get a sample of the 922a from them when I was originally trying to source something for my build. It is a very dense mesh, but the pattern itself is much smaller than on the speaker grill stuff. Here is a comparison between the two: Plus a few others I looked at. From left to right we have the speaker grill mesh, then Wireform mesh, kitchen mesh and finally 922a on the right. The pattern on Wireform is similar in size to the vintage stuff, but it's very thin and very transparent. It damages very easily and does need speaker cloth backing. The kitchen mesh is cut from a frying pan splatter shield. I've never identified the grade, but it is much stronger than Wireform. It looks very good but is still too transparent to use without a cloth backing. I also had a sample of mesh 901a from them, but that was just the car body repair type mesh IIRC. I'll post a shot of the vintage speaker grill mesh with a scaling reference. For some reason the mesh looks very 'open' in these shots. In reality the holes appear very small from most angles. Maybe I should spray it silver as that would show the true structure of the mesh better.
  8. Cracking does seem to be a major problem with acrylic slats. Although I didn't get any snapped slats on my last attempt, I do have fracture lines forming on several of them. I guess in a battle between a metal pin and a perspex slat it's not surprising the metal wins sometimes. I am interested in the use of Polycarbonate perspex. A guy on youtube uploaded this video showing the punishment a 3mm sheet can take: I do wonder if it would be too flexible for use on Dalek slats though. It does seem more bendy than acrylic, perhaps unacceptably so. I may order some up to see.
  9. Blimey. All I can suggest is widening the holes in the slat. You can try adding washers, but I would have thought that the collar itself would take the strain away from the rear of the slat if the hole size is 3.2mm. How many compressions of the riveter are you taking before it pops? I've found that multiple little compressions can sometimes be more gentle than trying to pop them in only two stages. You just have to keep sliding the rivet gun back up to the rivet head each time. Alternative materials are an option. There are soft set rivets available apparently, though I've never used them. If the perspex itself is somehow too brittle then I will find out in the coming week since I ordered mine from the same place. Perhaps polycarbonate slats may be the answer? They definitely won't crack like this, but will flex more.
  10. Hi Ian, I drilled a pair of Birch wooden balls for my build using flat bits. I advanced them pretty slowly and they cut ok. I bolted the balls between two pieces of wood with circular holes in - just like the way they are held in the Dalek itself, then clamped the whole thing to the pillar drill table. When I did mine I drilled each one halfway, then turned it upside down and drilled it through until the holes met in the middle. They lined up well, but I did have the luxury of a pre-drilled 6mm pilot hole to keep them on track. If you can find a drill long enough to make one I'd start with that. Best of luck with this! Jonathan
  11. Looking good! You must be just about ready to fit the mesh and slats now? Just going back to something you asked a couple of pages back. I'm in the process of making a new collar for my Dalek and was looking at some of the older episodes for reference. Something in episode 2 of Masterplan caught my eye - one of the Daleks has its rearmost slat snapped in half. It's difficult to see through the mesh, but I reckon the rear wrap is still there underneath as a rectangular shape does seem to be visible. Not a feature I'm intending to replicate, but I thought you might be interested to have a look yourself. J
  12. The Evans Dalek has had its mesh replaced, although apparently the pattern of the original mesh was left stencilled in paint on the neck bin surface. I was lead to believe it was the same pattern as this stuff, rather than circular mesh. Maybe I misunderstood, but that was the tip off I was given to look for this speaker grill mesh in the first place. I think it's quite possible that different meshes were used during the sixties across the props. Considering how much the other parts of the props got battered during the first few years I wouldn't mind betting the mesh was replaced at various points too. Even the coarse mesh fitted in Day of the Daleks has been replaced by Genesis and that was much tougher stuff. Yeah, I must admit the holes do seem to be slightly different on my sample, but given that they are only about 1.5mm wide we are talking tenths of a millimetre difference, which I think would be acceptable. If Bion could make anything similar I think it will be a major step up from what we are using now.
  13. I have some of this type of mesh, but in steel. It's quite a bit different to all of the modern meshes I've seen. It's more like a cheese grater in miniature, with much less 'open' area than expanded mesh. When the original movie Dalek was put up for auction in Derby I took a bit with me to compare against the original. The rusty bit on the left is the steel sample I took - the original stuff was aluminium. The holes looked perhaps a little larger on my sample, but we couldn't be sure due to the thick layer of paint on the Dalek mesh. Also, the two examples of mesh are not being photographed at exactly the same angle, which is crucial with this stuff as the holes change shape quite dramatically depending on the angle it is being viewed from. Either way this stuff is by far the closest I've ever seen. If they can make something like this again it will be well worth it. Now you mention it, I can see what look like tiny circular holes on early TV props. This is Dalek 6 in DIOE.
  14. Hi Hux, What substance or surface are trying to seal?
  15. There seems to be another Nylon type substance called Acetal which is made in grey, but I don't know if it was made back then.
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    • John  »  bec weir

      Many thanks for your donation to help fund the Forum hosting etc. It's very generous of you and much appreciated!
      · 1 reply
    • Aussie Kev

      Looking for the close up photo of the portable graphic equaliser deck that Nick Briggs use's with his Moog MF102. Somewhere out there, I have seen this photo of him sitting at a table with the graphic equaliser, to fine tune in the sound of the Moog. Could be used as a reference photo if allowed on the Forum.
      · 2 replies
    • madianm

      Well just an update . I've started finally , thought i'd tackle the base and work up from there. I've been sorting afew smaller things like hemi's and cutting drainage pipe for there surrounds . See how it goes , will post some pics at some stage ! ..Ian
      · 1 reply
    • OutCastDalek

      I finally received the Workshop Manuel today! Now all I have to do is study it. Hopefully I'll start a build diary by the summer. 
      · 0 replies
    • Ferrain

      Printing the front fuselage of DSV2.....
      · 7 replies