Welcome to Project Dalek

You need to be a member in order to access our content.


Click Here To Join!


For instant access to the plans and all Forum features, choose Active Membership.


Radioactive Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Ferrain last won the day on February 8

Ferrain had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

137 Excellent


About Ferrain

  • Rank
    In Manhattan
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

37,221 profile views
  1. Now you have the hang of that, you could add another larger circle with a radius of 19mm, then extrude it up 3mm & extrude the middle by an additional 3mm to a height, giving you a wedding cake tier arrangement or a capped bushing. This time when you fly underneath to check that its all "solid" you will notice the diameter of the 33.5mm circle, you can click on it with the eraser tool or highlight with the Select tool & Right Click - Erase, you have a cleaner looking piece (Silencing my inner OCD). I find Sketchup easy to use especially for Dalek parts & haven't gelled with anything else to use as substitute CAD tool, horses for courses if you want to find a better tool & learn to use it, before you get too involved\locked in with Sketchups quirks. As you get more advanced you will find that some of these "artifacts" when erased will cause holes to appear in the solid render (The OCD side of me then comes out to play to find & erase the non-conformity, spending hours fixing\ruining things that could be best repaired by using something like Netfabb Basic).
  2. Easier (He said) than uploading files, it's a relatively easy task in Sketchup. Using the Metric template (Maker mm)...... Delete the outline for the Makerbot. Create two circles with 60 segments at the origin point (Use the second "view" icon that looks like a box to find the origin cross hairs) See Pic 1 - View. For a 34mm tube create a circle with a radius of 16.75mm - This gives you 33.5mm so it should fit snugly allowing for tolerances.If its slack increase the radius, if its too tight decrease the radius. For the middle tube create another circle from the same origin point with a radius of 16.25mm - This gives you 32.5mm that hopefully wont scratch the paint of the section, if its too tight then increase the radius. Delete the area in the middle & you should now have something like the picture 2 - Flat Bush. Change the view using the first "House" view icon, select the "Push Pull" Icon, highlight the area between the two circles, press CTRL on your keyboard & using the mouse drag that area up by about 4mm. So you should have something like this....... 3- Extrude. Check using the "Red & Green Arrows around a pole" Fly around Icon to check the "Polo Mint or Life Savers" bush is "Solid" from top & bottom (If it isn't you forgot the important Ctrl key press, Just do a Undo\Crtl-Z & redo). Export the model to STL (There's a warehouse plugin for that) & print off using the software\printer of your choice. There's not not much in the way of material so the print is going to be pretty thin & quick, (just like mine).
  3. Opps - I missed the reply to this thread (Expecting it via PM), OK........ let me see.
  4. Certainly the classic, Dead Planet Daleks lack the mesh & slats.
  5. Printing the front fuselage of DSV2.....

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. markhammer


      That's awesome.  I was envious when you were making an Eagle from Space 1999.  Now I'm just beside myself and can't wait to see pics.  I still have my old Corgi No.44 Liberator from when I was 12 (35 years ago).  It's seen better days, but it had to survive me and my kids playing with it.  Pic attached,


    3. Ferrain


      I had that Corgi model in white cost me 50p IIRC - The Eagle is still partially assembled in the basement, one day when time permits I''l get back to it.

    4. Ferrain


      Following Johns request - Pictures will be posted here for the general amusement of all.




  6. Bit of a black art finding one that's just right for you - I burned the foam mic cover away on a clearance one with a soldering iron by accident, that had given very good service with the Martmod MK 5 & its not the same & not really looked for a new foam mic cover as yet. I picked up a couple of Sennheiser headsets recently, but not had chance to try them out.
  7. I was thinking that too.....
  8. Nice find - The main thing that would really set that Dalek off is a black backing curtain to get rd of the "Lady Diana" effect on the neck & replica dome lights.
  9. There's only one Dalek Builder in Montana I think offhand. OK US States with no sales taxes. Delaware, Montana, Oregon, and New Hampshire (Alaska, has no state-level sales tax but allows municipalities to impose the retail-level tax. As a result, the average sales tax rate in Alaska is 1.69%).
  10. Reverse the polarity of the electron flow (Transpose your wires). Really need a Sonic Screwdriver emoji John.
  11. A better question might be where in the US is this being sourced from & pair up with a US builder to ship in small quantities as required, as shipping the entire weight of 1900 pieces might be even more crippling than the taxes. The pound is currently a bit stronger against the US$, also purchase taxes vary from state to state, so if it was shipped to Montana, there's no additional sales tax despite it being sold elsewhere in the US.
  12. I have decided to take a break from MM building to enjoy the summer, spend quality family time & projects including a rather neglected Gene Hunt during my weekends home.

    1. Ferrain


      Just to restate - The Martmods will be produced again around the time summer ends.

  13. 2A should be plenty if using a internal amp like the Martmods. If plugging the output into a external amp then 300ma should be ample try putting your multimeter in series & see what current is drawn then choose a fuse based on that.. On the Martmod we put a 4 or 5A fuse (depending on version & less if using LED's) in series with the transistor controlling the dome lights.
  14. The method I saw (paraphrasing a bit) for ABS was to use a Mason jar (I was going to use a coffee jug) with 1" of acetone, placed into a saucepan with a 1" level of (near) boiling water, the model is quickly placed\suspended above the vapor for about 10 seconds, then removed to "dry". PLA requires a different solvent so my Thrift store stainless steel pot & coffee jug purchased for the princely sum of $2.50 remains unused.
  15. Monty will also be accompanying him as usual I imagine.
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Aussie Kev

      Looking for the close up photo of the portable graphic equaliser deck that Nick Briggs use's with his Moog MF102. Somewhere out there, I have seen this photo of him sitting at a table with the graphic equaliser, to fine tune in the sound of the Moog. Could be used as a reference photo if allowed on the Forum.
      · 0 replies
    • madianm

      Well just an update . I've started finally , thought i'd tackle the base and work up from there. I've been sorting afew smaller things like hemi's and cutting drainage pipe for there surrounds . See how it goes , will post some pics at some stage ! ..Ian
      · 1 reply
    • OutCastDalek

      I finally received the Workshop Manuel today! Now all I have to do is study it. Hopefully I'll start a build diary by the summer. 
      · 0 replies
    • Ferrain

      Printing the front fuselage of DSV2.....
      · 7 replies
    • L'chaim 12

      If a mod would be so kind as to delete the mushnik TDP build, as I'm not going to be building it anymore, I have a different dalek in mind in a few months, but this is just bugging me.
      · 2 replies