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Worzel's Sec NSD

109 posts in this topic

hi all,

well the weather has changed and the time has come to start my build.


After much thought, I gave up the idea of making a wooden mould to fibreglass the inside of.

My budget is tight, and it seemed a bit risky to waste loads of cash on MDF and time building the skirt mould only to find it didnt work.

So instead I have decided to take the route of 12mm base and top, 4 mm side panels.

This went to pot when I found homebase only sell 3mm. They give you 2 free cuts to get it in your car, so after a bit of maths I found where to do it so that I could get the 8X4 in my car. I brought it home and cut all the necessary extra panels, with surplus on each for trimming when fitted. However, now that I look at them, I think 3mm is too thin. They seem to be bent and twisted before I even start :-(

I have therefore revised my plans. and am gonna make the panels out of 6mm. Another trip to Homebase and £11 wasted :-(

On the bright side, I have a Wicks nearby and they sell the 12mm 8X4 for half the price of Homebase (£11). When I tried to get some, they all had a dent on one corner where a careless fork lift driver had wacked them. I knew this wouldnt matter, as that corner could be a cut off for the front of the skirt base, so I asked for a discount and they let me have it for £6!!!!!

Got it home and drew it all out (made a mistake in my haste and found the following morning that it was all drawn out wrong-lol). I only spotted it because the plans imply that the rear upper and lower back 2 angled panels run parallel to each other. I have since found that they don't, but mine were ridiculously out.

Having redrawn them, I had my next bad experience. I spent ages using the old maths saying "Silly Old Hitler, Caused A Headache, To Our Army's" to find the angles that i needed to cut the top and bottom panels for the side panels to meet flush with them.

When I'd finished, I set my jigsaw to the right angle, and bolted a spirit level to the MDF, so that the jigsaw would run next to it, cutting a straight line.

How wrong I was!!!!

The angled cut went all over the show, varying from 30 degrees to 90!!! I guess u need an expensive jigsaw to cut properly.

In my frustration, I used my circular saw, but this has a mark on the front footplate showing where it should be cutting, but for some reason it didnt :-(

I then used a handsaw, and stopped half way through as I felt thoroughly depressed.

In my desperation, I clamped the spirit level on again, and used my cheapo RedDevil router. It cut the upper skirt top like a factory made bit of IKEA.

OK, it is at 90 degrees, so the "Silly Old Hitler" was a waste of time, but it has got me step nearer.

The only trouble is that I wont be getting both the top and bottom out of one piece of MDF as I'd hoped, but at £6 a sheet, who cares-lol

I will post some pics soon of the finished upper and lower parts when I get time.

BTW: does anyone else have trouble cutting a straight line on MDF with jigsaws and circular saws, or is it just me?


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BTW: does anyone else have trouble cutting a straight line on MDF with jigsaws and circular saws, or is it just me?

A circular saw should give a good straight cut - it's difficult to bend those blades. For a better cut with a jigsaw, like you, I tend to clamp a straight edge to the workpiece which I can follow with the edge of the jigsaw's flat base. Obviously, it has to be offset from the actual area to be cut, but it works quite well with my jigsaw. I think it might be something to do with variable speed which some jigsaws have and some don't


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Hi worzel

i am building sec also. I am just on the skirt section too. I am using 12mm top and base with 6mm panels mainly except for the straight rear and side which ive done with 12mm. I cut all my panels with a hand saw and fitted them with bevels by hand with a plane. I am finding this method nice and simple so far, but ive still got to try ans persuade the 2front most panels to twist. Could be fun with 6mm LOL.

Catch you soon



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thanx for the comments and apologies for not replying to any PM's (the "reply" button is missing for some reason).

Anyway, I got 2 more sheets of 12mm 8X4 for £6 a piece (3cm damaged corners again-lol).

I'm not sure if 12mm is used on the shoulders, but I thought i better get a couple of sheets whilst there's still damaged ones left.

Today I redrew the skirt bottom and cut it out with the router/spirit level clamped to the wood. This time it looked IKEA like the top one.

Small problem when a router bit broke, but luckily I had a spare.

I have taken the decision to make my skirt slightly different. I have made the top "50p" 6mm smaller all around its edges, to let the 6mm side panels meet against its sides. I'll fit them slightly too tall, so I can sand them down level to the top "50p" at the end.

I have then made it so that the bottom "50p" is full size. The 6mm side panels will come down and rest on the top face of it (supported by thin battoning glued 6mm in, all the way around-each bevelled with the correct angles for each panel). By doing this, it will mean that the skirts full Dalek height will be from the top face of the bottom "50p" to the top face of the top "50p"-if that makes sense?

My reason for this is as follows...

to make the fender, Ill rest the finished skirt on a flat sheet of MDF and glue each of the horizontal fender side sections around/against the lower "50p" edges of the skirt. After making the sloping/vertical edges of the fender, the skirts bottom "50p" will simply act as a drop in and locate feature that attaches the skirt to the fender easily.

Oh, I nearly forgot.... I made a sturdy wooden box frame that holds the top "50p" the right distance from the bottom one (taking into account the thickness of the top "50p" and not the bottom one, which is now to be classed as fender height.


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went to homebase to get a sheet of 8X4 6mm MDF (the 3mm was too thin in my opinion).

Got another bargain-lol

They have a red button you push at the cutting counter. The staff have 2 mins to get there, or you get 10% off.

The guy who cut the 3mm previously, got there with a minute to spare.

Today, the counter started loosing the LED's one by one off the clock face. Just as one LED was left, a member of staff strolled round the corner. STOP! I yelled,

pointing to the one LED.

He laughed, and strolled casually to the counter, entering it just moments before the LED went out.

When he wrote out the ticket, he snatched it back off me and wrote "10% OFF", then winked at me... Bless him, that was another £1.30 saved.

Anyway, after much adjusting, I got the top of the skirt to line up with the bottom with the use of a decorators plumline. I screwed them to the temporary boxframe, and cut the 4 upright side/front/back supports.

When I went to take it outside, I fell into the same old trap....

It was too wide for my doorways!!!!

I thought this problem was when the fender was in place, not the skirt.

Managed to get it outside by removing a strut, but have now changed the design.

The side struts on either side will comprise of 2 that are bolted together. When the skirt is complete, I'll cut out the centres of the top and bottom and the skirt will seperate into two halves (front and back).

Has anyone else done this before?

If so, what possible problems might I have overlooked?


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A Dalek skirt will go through most domestic doorways, turned on its side.

Sounds like progress though. :)


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I'll have another go then tomorrow, but it seemed I tried every way to get it through my 30" wide doorways earlier, and no joy :(

here's a picture of it so far.



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I was going to throw away my sheet of paper that I'd worked the sizes for the skirt panels from an 8x4 sheet of MDF on, bu thought it might be of use to others.

It shows where to ask Homebase to give you your 2 free cuts, so that you can fit it in your car.

It then shows you where to cut for each of the 11 panels, giving you maximum excess on each for trimming when you fit them.

BTW: its 10% off at Homebase this weekend.



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Great idea, Worzel. Here it is again, reduced to handy shopping-list size.



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hi worzel :)

i cant understand why your skirt section doesnt fit through your door? are you sure you have built it to the correct height of 68.6cm = 27.007874 inches?

because if you have it should fit through with a couple of inches to spare :unsure:


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crickey!!!! your post scared me there.

I thought I'd made it the wrong size, even though I had triple checked every measurement before cutting.

On looking at it, the skirt is an optical illusion. Mine looks far taller than it is wide (even with the extra 12mm height that has been taken into account for the bottom of the skirt to locate into the fender).

I had tried taking it through the door vertically and also tried tilting it at an angle, but I did not try it horizontal for the above reason.

I cant try it now, as it has just had some batons glued around the bottom edge, but i'll give it a go tomorrow.

Incidentally, the batons were a nightmare. Each had to have the outside angle of slope cut to the correct degree for the skirt panels to butt up against them, and they all had to meet up with each other precisely (I'm a wanna be perfectionist).

I didnt do the edge ones, as I was gonna fit them when the left and right "bolt together uprights" were done.

I will now have to make my mind up whether or not to do this if she fits through a doorway succesfully.




Edited by worzel

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phew :rolleyes:

i had the same dilemma when i built my skirt... i started with a split skirt then due to a long break when i assembled the skirt i found that the two halves had warped! so that kind of made my mind up for me and i joined the two halves into one.

there are pros and cons for both methods

the main ones being that: on a split skirt you have a visible joint (if only to you)

and they are an awkward thing to keep unbolting and bolting back together again.

and with the un-split one they are a juggling act to get through most domestic doorways and they can be very heavy when kitted out with all the hemis...

the nice thing is that you are doing it the most sensible way!

it is a lot easier to join a split skirt than it is to split one. ;)

good luck mate.


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the skirt will fit through my internal doors, but NOT through the external PVC ones.

I only found this out after I had glued and fixed all 4 vertical supports, and had cut nearly all the side panels ready to fit.

I needed to do one of the final messy parts outside, and thats when I found the bad news.

I had no other choice than to go back to my original plan of a split skirt (which kind of makes me happy), so off came the old side supports to get it through the doorway.

I've cut new "bolt-together" side upright supports, and will be fitting them soon.

one step forwards, two back.


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Eek! Thats NOT good at all!

Mind you, the same thing happened to me quite a while back on an earlier build. I had measured the internal doors but not the front or back door. And in a Victorian Terrace the only way that I could get the Skirt out of the house was by taking out the Sash Window in the living room.

Needless to say, the build was abandoned. Mind you, two years later and living in a more modern house (complete with Garage) the Build was back on.

Sory to hear of your missfortune, but the Split Skirt is a handy solution :-)

Good luck and looking forward to the next updates.

Mark D


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Glad you found out before it was too far into the build. At least you can allow for modifications without undoing too much work.

Its a bit like those people who build cars and stuff in their houses and have to knock walls down to get them out, and they call Dalek builders crazy

Adam S


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