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atomicgraph

Atomicgraph's Dalek - Simon

109 posts in this topic

well i've been in lurk space for a while now and i think its time to come into the light. everyones work is so impressive that i've held off and felt i have nothing to offer... well about my build i want to do a nsd so i came here because i didn't think it could be done then i saw the work you all have done so it gave me a glimmer of hope. i've never worked with fiber glass or moulds so i've got a lot of trial and error ahead of me. i started on the dome first (way out of my league but i keep in mind trial and error)

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i used my wife's exercise ball and splattered it with plaster... i removed the ball and started drawing out the lines for the recesses

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i'm thinking i can work with this... just level out the bottom and create that beveled edge at the bottom, seems easy enough.

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well that didn't turn out so good :( its messurements are off and that bevel is a little wonky) i better move on to something thats not so messy something like they eye here is my first attempt i used the magic 8 ball then went to the plumbing store i found this cupeling but it wasn't the same diameter of the 8 ball i still gave it a shot i made the little steps around the lens out of foam sheets i got at the craft store i used a straight edge to cut thin stripes and the layered them to make the steps

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i stared at this for a months then decided to scrap it and start a new first i got a better fitting piece of pvc and used a rubber gasket to make the front of the eye then i used the same method to make the rings the profile looks a lot better so i'm contempt with it i then scrounged up some metal tubing and six tap lights i also found some wooden wheels at the craft store i got 2 and glued them together its not accurate but the diameter was the exact same as the 8 ball. so yesterday i put it all together and this is what i've got

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i'm pretty pleased with the results and unfortunatly i'm in the middle of moving so anything major on this project is on hold thats part of the reason i jumped to the eye stalk. i'm thinking the next major part i'll make is the base and skirt and thanks to everyone for posting their builds and solutions i hope to be able to do the same

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sorry i'm still learning how to use this board but i found some pics of my eye after i refitted it and before i painted it

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(also this topic got posted twice sorry)

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hello every one

sorry its taken so long for an update but i gotta admit i was feeling a little over my head with building a dalek. so this week end i pulled out my plans and started on the fender.

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i set my blade to 25 degrees and cut it out. then i made a template and cut out the skirting supports. i glued them in place and tried to screw them but the screw spilt the brace.... so for the time being they are just glued in.

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i have to say thank you to adam s for his build diary its so detailed and well put together... so thank you for sharing it.

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i got a little farther with the fender today... actually i worked 3 nights to get the panels on it. its still not finished but i wanted to get a good nights sleep before i finish off the front two sections.... those cuts are pretty complicated for me and i want the front to to be the best. here are some pictures of my progress so far

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the last on is my eye stalk the poor things just been sitting on a shelf for about a year now. it's lit by a l.e.d. flash light pen at the moment.

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well i have a small update on my progress, i started on the bottom half of my fender and had just enough wood to do it except on small, section :(

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it sat like that for about a week and finally i got a chance to pick up a piece of ply wood and i finished it off tonight.... well finished of the construction part of it. i still need to reinforce it some how, i have some grp that i picked up when i was gonna work on the dome, i think its probably a good idea for me (having no experience with fiberglas) to start simple with using it to strengthen the fender. i also ended up with a few gaps in it... nothing a little bondo and sanding won't fix

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i also added a blue bulb to my eye stalk from the garden center at the local diy store

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i'm still not sure exactly how i'm gonna make everything work (lights, voice, movement....)

i guess once i get the "shell" made the rest will kinda fall in place.

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well i'm getting ready at my first attempt at fiber glassing anything. i figure the best place is to start reinforcing the fender section. these are some supplies i got about a year ago, i'm not sure about the shelf life of it but i hope it works good enough to do the fender.

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i also cut out the templates for the skirt. i have to admit it took me a couple of tries to get the top section drawn out i had lines going everywhere and didn't connect the dots right. i flipped it over and started again... i hope its right this time.

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i'm using ply wood as my templates (thats what i had laying around) and my fender looks like it has a slight bow in it. i think i may need to build the skirt off the fender so all the panels meet the fender.

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here is my fist fiber glassing job.

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pretty easy stuff to work with i suppose.... a little messy or i'm just a little messy. over all i'm excited with the way it works i was a little concerned that the fiber cloth was the wrong type of material but it worked out pretty good for the fender section. i just cut it into strips and laid it in the joins i used a little under half of the 36 inch x 38 inch cloth. my resin seemed to cure a little quickly.

i mixed it just like the directions on the bottle 2 parts resin : 1 part hardener. the resin and hardener were about a year old maybe that has something to do with it. i used two of those little cups (in the picture) of resin and one cup of the hardener, to do all the joins in the fender.

i think i have enough to reinforce the skirt which i intend to get started on tomorrow. :)

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The fender is looking good.

Fiberglass and resin can appear daunting at first, but re-enforcing a joint is a good place to make a start with it. Its like everything, the only way to learn to use it is to have a go, reading all the books and advice is OK but you need to have a go with the real stuff.

There are a couple of things that you learn as you use it, one is to get all the air out from the matting when you 'wet' it with resin and the other is that the matting tends not to bend round tight corners.

Good luck with your next bit.

Adam S

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thanks adam.

thats the only way i seem to learn is from "hands on experience". this stuff is really strong, i was expecting the fender to still be fragile... i even stabbed the palm of my hand from a stray piece of the fiber cloth while moving it, yep this dalek is gonna be mean

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well i got a little up date on my skirt. first i built a stand for the top template i subtracted the thickness of my material and i was set to go.

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after i had it up top i had no idea how to line it up in the proper place.... maybe if i used a weight and a piece of thread i could hang it from the top section and make marks on the fender and line it all up. i was looking for a fishing weight but i didn't have one so i used a key and a hollow tube to weight the string

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i hung one at the front corner and one in the back center. i also notched the edge with a razor blade to keep them centered, then i just twisted it till it was aligned.

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next i measured out the the front strut from tip to tip.

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and then the same for the back and the two sides. i also trimmed down the top template and the bottom template the thickness of my skirting material. i also tried to bevel all the edges so everything fits as nicely as possible.

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.... my panels are coming up with a lot of gaps so i decided to stop and and get a good nights sleep before adventuring on but i did get one panel correct and in place

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hi mate

your progress is looking good, the best way to do the skirt panels is to do 1 at a time then get it fitted into place, then onto the next one and if you need to add 1 or 2 mm on or take off then you can and you will have next to no gaps with minimal filling required, the plans are there for a guide , no one will notice if your panels are not 100% accurate :)

john

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johng your method is the best... the back has lots of gaps but as i moved along to the front it got much better. well i got everything finished construction wise on the skirt and fender

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i had a few issues with the panels bowing in and out in a few areas but i screwed on a small block of wood to bring out bows and level it all out

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so i picked up a can of bondo and filled in the gaps i also borrowed my dads belt sander which really made smoothing it all out pretty easy. i still have a few rough spots here and there i might end up leaving them because i'd like my dalek to have a weathered look to it... battle hardened ;)

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i also have a small gap at the front section very small this is what happens if you leave the belt sander in one spot for to long. i think it will be alright once it gets a couple coats of paint

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my daughter was playing with a hinged ball and it is the perfect diameter for the hemmies. i have no experience with moulding but this would be a better start than trying to start on the dome. like my first post.... i guess i'm gonna use plaster then coat it with something (i'm not sure what product i need to do that with.... research research)

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hello every one.


here is my attempt at moulding the hemmies. i stopped by the craft store today to see if they had any thing that i could use.

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i picked up this stuff and made a box to house my moulds i was planning on making about 4 at a time. i mixed it up 1/2 compound : 3/4 cold water, and i poured it over my plug.

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now this is my second attempt. on my first attempt i just waxed the plug and it wouldn't release and this mould stuff is very easy to tear apart with a rubber type feel. the first attempt just broke apart..... i have a bottle of mould release agent from a while back (see my first post :blink: again big plans that fell apart)

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i sponged it all over my plug and it was time to try again. i mixed up another batch of the mould compound and again poured it on my plug. next i mixed up some plaster and filled in a section of my box i laid my mould and plug on top and waited for it to set

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after about thirty minutes i pulled the wood off the top

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again that crappy mould compound got a tear in it and also the plaster seemed to contract while it set up. i'm really at a loss of what products to use here. i have no access to by any thing online (i don't have credit cards) so i'm limited to things i can find/get off the shelf around town. moral of all this is don't do what i did, all i accomplished was making a mess and blowing $20. i'm thinking i'm gonna have to use a different method to make the hemmies. maybe the plastic method will work better.... is the plastic sheets something i can pick up at the diy stores, i've seen plastic there in pretty big sheets, is this stuff suitable for hemmi making......


(please point me in the right direction, thank you)

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I've had a number of people recommend Smooth-On Mold Max. But it's pretty pricey.

-Jim

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Hi,

I've been having a ponder about your hemi problem. If you're going to try plastic sheet of some kind you are still going to need a former to shape the plastic once you've heated it. Since you don't have access to internet shopping I've tried to think of a method that you can use that just needs 'standard' shops.

I'd be inclined to start with what you already have: that nice transparent hemi you've been trying to use as a plug. Make sure that the inside is blemish free then apply wax/release agent before filling it with Car body filer (P40 chopped strand - this has stands of matting in the goo).

Don't just fill the whole dome in one go; it could get so warm that id warps your original plastic former. You don't need a solid shape to start - just a good thick layer that will support itself once removed. Once this is thick enough and has cured, you can pull it from the plastic mould. You'll now have a slightly undersized plug made from P40. I'd be inclined to then add extra layers of P40 to the inside of this shape until it was completly filled. You can then sand the flat part smoot to ensure it's level before you mount it onto a board (If you are aiming for push through hemis, make sure you add a disk of wood the same width as your skirt panels between the plug and the board).

Now leave the whole thing alone for a couple of days to allow things to finally set and for any chemical evaporation to take place - this things going to get warm when the plastic is laid on top of it and you don't want and adverse reaction to the heat.

You can now start making your hemis using you nice new plug that you've made. Don't worry about getting a super-smooth finish to your plug; the outside of the warm plastic is the only finish you need to worry about. It's worth consulting AdamSt's build diary for further info on how to make them - he's produced a by-the-numbers method thats' very easy to follow.

Why use the inside of the original hemi? Firstly, you are cutting down on the number of operations you need to complete the process (no need to make a negative mould first) and secondly, the inner dimensions will allow for the thickness of the plastic when you push it over the top of the plug so that your final hemis are not too big.

As far as the plastic sheet goes, you need to make sure you get something that melts when it is heated rather than burns when it is heated. Stress to you supplier what you intend to do with this stuff before you buy it to make sure it's suitable.

Above all, have fun.

Hope this helps,

Jon

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