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sebeedee

P38 And P40 Filler?

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I was searching the internet for the "P40 Car body filler" mentioned in the workshop manual for the alternative method of building the dome using 32 piece frame and fibreglass tape. Is that the fibreglass filler and how much do i need- bearing in mind that im building a 2005 dalek and it says i need to make a thicker layer than the 3mm mentioned for classics.

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Hi all I couldn't find this topic mentioned. I'm about to start filling gaps in my skirt and also construct my eye, plunger ball joint and gun joint. I notice the plans say use P40 body filler. Some people say use P38 filler?

 

Which one is best. Should I use a different type for each part? Is P40 better for the skirt and shoulders as they are wood and P38 for the magic 8 ball as its plastic? Or does it not make any difference?

 

Why not use wood filler?

 

Your help  please. 

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Have a look at all the filler topics here

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P38 is what most people will recognise as 'standard grey car body filler'.

P38 filler.jpg

The blurb says:

Quote

A (two part) chemical paste for filling rust holes and dents in steel, glass fibre etc. Can be sanded after only 20 minutes and painted over with most paint systems.

 

_______________________

 

P40 is often red or yellow(ish) in colour and is a sort of resin gel, with tiny strands of fibreglass mixed through it. This makes it far more durable than P38, so it is able to bridge larger gaps. The fibreglass strands make it less prone to cracking or breaking apart.

P40 (with glass fibres).jpg

The blurb says:

Quote

A (two part) chemical paste for bridging holes and rust in steel, glass fibre etc. Forms a very hard durable surface that can be sanded and shaped as required, can be covered by P38 polyester filler or painted over directly. 

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The image on the P40 can shows the use well. P40 for structural work P38 for a smooth finish. Remember if sanding P40 it has glass in it.

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Australia - 3 different automotive body fillers and 2 different coloured hardeners are available that I use.

IMG_0995[1].JPGIMG_0996[1].JPGIMG_0971[1].JPGIMG_0972[1].JPGIMG_0973[1].JPGIMG_0995[1].JPG

 

5 different colours can be created out of the 3 different body fillers. Some photos borrowed from my builders diary to show what I mean.

 

Fibre glass reinforced filler with red hardener.

IMG_0965[1].JPGIMG_0966[1].JPGIMG_0967[1].JPGIMG_0968[1].JPGIMG_0969[1].JPGIMG_0970[1].JPG

 

Fibre glass filler with white hardener.

IMG_0974[1].JPGIMG_0975[1].JPGIMG_0976[1].JPG

 

Stainless steel fibre reinforced filler with white hardener.

IMG_0977[1].JPGIMG_0978[1].JPGIMG_0979[1].JPGIMG_0980[1].JPGIMG_0981[1].JPG

 

Stainless filler with red hardener.

IMG_0982[1].JPGIMG_0983[1].JPGIMG_0984[1].JPG

 

Red hardener changes colour of the body filler.

IMG_0985[1].JPG

 

4 different coloured reinforced body filler colours. Bottom 2 pieces are done with white hardener, so the colour of the body filler stays the same colour.

IMG_0986[1].JPGIMG_0987[1].JPG

 

After filing, all looks the same colour.

IMG_0990[1].JPGIMG_0991[1].JPG

 

Red hardener is easy to use because you can see the colour change of the filler.

White hardener is more difficult to use. Mix it, then re-mix it, and re-mix it again just to make sure. There is no colour change to help you. Use white hardener on the inside of a build to get a more natural look to the filler. Won't be pale pink coloured like other body filler.

IMG_0973[1].JPGIMG_0976[1].JPGIMG_0981[1].JPG

 

Normal body filler being used as a finishing filler. Hard to mix in some general purpose thinner, but will make the body filler softer and easier to mix and spread onto the surface.

The 2 knife method has always been the easiest for me.

IMG_0997[1].JPGIMG_0998[1].JPGIMG_0999[1].JPGIMG_1000[1].JPGIMG_1001[1].JPGIMG_1002[1].JPGIMG_1003[1].JPGIMG_1004[1].JPGIMG_0973[1].JPG

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