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Looking for the close up photo of the portable graphic equaliser deck that Nick Briggs use's with his Moog MF102. Somewhere out there, I have seen this photo of him sitting at a table with the graphic equaliser, to fine tune in the sound of the Moog. Could be used as a reference photo if allowed on the Forum.
Well just an update . I've started finally , thought i'd tackle the base and work up from there. I've been sorting afew smaller things like hemi's and cutting drainage pipe for there surrounds . See how it goes , will post some pics at some stage ! ..Ian
So EVENTUALLY the gel went from liquid to tacky after about 4 hours, so I layed up the matting. I went with two layers of 450 gsm, going within a couple of mm of the edge. Basically as close to the edges are I dare go really. Possibly with the odd strand actually gong past the line. It was slightly tedious work, as I had to constantly remove overrun or loose fibers. It took about 140ml of gelcoat ( I could EASILY have doubled that..) and 400ml of polyester resin for the two layers on the rings. Then as soon as the resin started to gel and become leathery I use a knife and cut off any loose hanging fibers and bolted the two moulds together.
From there I ran 80ml of gelcoat down the interior seams of the moulds, and I'll then run another strip of fibreglass in the gap between the two sides. However, that's where my luck ran out, for two reasons, firstly the gel was still wet at 4:30pm (I had to pick my daughter up at 5pm) and secondly I have run out of polyester resin. Frustrating, as I need probably 100-200ml to complete the rings.
I suspect I will probably need a good 1.2 litres of polyester resin to complete the neck bin itself, frustrating because the 'diggers' fibreglass resin I've been getting is about $35 a tin, so to complete the neck will be about AUD$80 with these small expensive pots. Or if I got $200 20 litres tub.. about $12 worth of resin. Of course, I have $35, but not $200, so it will cost significantly more because I'm terribly poor!
My Dad was a Plumber, he didn't have brass nipples. They were just normal ones like any other bloke.
Yeah, the thicker 10mm aluminium tube from Bunnings is what I put a thread on, though I'm sure I have three lamp rods around here somewhere. I wonder if an old second-hand store or Vinnies (or Ikea?) would have old lamps that could donate their rod for building?
Given your skillset Bec, I reckon you'll take to MIG like a kid to a hot glue gun!
I'm presently trying to learn TIG ... stainless ... ahahahahaha, good luck me - (for brewery equipment) . My first effort of a bead 'round a socket ended up looking like a cow turd. Think I might need more practice yet!
I tried to find "lamp rod"... even asked for "hollow threaded rod" and "threaded tube". Tried Brummies, all the local hardwares, even Middendorps electrical supplies where the girl looked at me like I was from another planet.... er ...
Rather than wait for a delivery from e-bung I figured I'd end up having to make something and pondered along the lines of PVC/electrical conduit when I tripped over some ali tube 12mm. Nice and light, I thought, so I tried to put a thread on that. As fast as I threaded it was peeling off like one of those curly spud peelers.
Back to the drawing board, and while I was wondering if plumbers had brass nipple to suit, I stumbled across some thicker walled 10mm ali tube. I think I've managed to get a half decent thread on that and I think there's enough room to shove the required wires up the 'ole for blue LED, iris servo and maybe another colour LED.
Hopefully I'll get chance to tinker some more before the weekend although we have accreditation at work this week. Darned bureaucratic bull perkacker.
Moving on to the beginning of the build...
Convienantly I had a nice sized board of plywood at hand and some thin plywood boards from when I was building a door aaaand some 1"by2" boards from when I built my work table.
I started out by drawing out the frame for the skirt a few times and a few slats for the sides, everything was looking good about a week or so later when I had time one day I built the frame and started "testing" some slats... it was at this point that I realized that the slats weren't exactly lining up as well as they should, I then look at the FAQ area on here and learned this is fairly common and what to do ( something called the X factor) I ended up deciding that it would be easier for me to start on the rear most panel and work my way around so at this time I'm about halfway around.
After I get the panels completed I'm going to work on making the bottom of the skirt using 2"x3" studs which measures closer to the measurements on the plans. It is this part of the skirt that I'm going to have the motors attach to( I'm going to make this as an attachment so that I can pull it out at any time.
when I'm done that I'm goIng to do some more work on skirt by taping the outside edges and Fiberglassing the inside seems, when this has cured I will remove the tape and fill in the seems with Fiberglass reinforced automotive putty and sanding to get my seems and what not.
attached are some photos of progress up to this point.