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hello, i guess i should introduce myself: my name's pepita, i'm 17 years old and live in germany. i'm a huge fan of doctor who but also a lot more. last year i started cosplaying and i enjoy being creative and doing stuff so i decided to build my own dalek
well i've just posted a pic of some mesh that might be the stuff were looking for so I'm getting quite excited.
Do you want to use the expanded raised mesh for the TV prop as I'm not sure if they ever did. I think some of the smaller speaker grill mesh you find on these new suitcase record players
is a good match. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
Which are the steel bit's you refer to? is that the petals on the gun mechanism?
Oh btw did you find a suitable fit for the aluminium tube for the eyestalk under the acrylic tubing? I've been analysing the second movie red props eyestalk when it breaks off
down the bomb shaft and I think its wood because of its orange/brown colour at the end of the stalk. The Daleks from the first film also have a working mechanical
eye despite the stalk being, presumably, a tapered wooden shaft. Hmmmm. I've just typed that and didn't think of it before lol.
We might have some good news. I contacted metal-mesh and they couldn't be more helpful unlike Bion. He even said when working with Bion they caused
them nothing but trouble.
However, although metal-mesh don't supply this mesh (although apparently they used too) he showed me some pictures of various grades of mesh that yet another company
manufactures called 'The Expanded Metal company' and one of the mesh samples in the pics looked exact. See below 801A.
So lets hope its the same grade and they can still make it!
Netfabb (basic\free) is the tool to repair\slice up a part that is too big for 3D printing, however I think that this is going to be a right pain in the rear to comfortably achieve with the software, let alone with a 3D printer afterwards (unless you have access to a industrial sized unit) & then assembling the sections afterwards.
If you must go down this route I would suggest that you 3D print the profile tool for making the former in the conventional way or cheat a little.
Ok so I've got the bin and cage mounted to the shoulders. I just about had enough top shoulder ring to drill three M5 bolt holes through the shoulder ring and then through the bin. One at the front and one each side. The back will have to be just resting but it seems solid. The cage was mounted in exactly the same way. Captive insert nuts were epoxied into the underside of the bottom neck ring and then some M5 studs hastily epoxied into these. The neck cage then drops down around the bin and the M5 studs secured with nuts underneath. I know most people secure the bin to the cage and then to the shoulders but needs must etc and this way I can remove the cage without the need to remove the bin from the shoulders if I need to, provided I remove the dome first. Not many photos today because Mindy is camera shy but a few of me sat inside messing about. Boy he's small. I'm 6 foot one so its snug. I also slotted the holes for the cage a bit so I have some movement. This may help if the dome rotation is not 100%.. My gazing globes also arrived today but they are not 10cm as advertised they are actually 94mm so fall through the holes in the gunbox. Back to the drawing board on these. Has anyone else had this issue. I may now have to use majic 8 balls as originally planned but I would prefer the metal balls to be honest.