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I took a sample of the Marazine blue to the automotive paint place where I get all my acrylic paints from and asked them to match it using their machine.
It turns out to be bloody close to a Ford colour called Olympic Blue from the 1960's, which was encouraging.
The original colour was an enamel paint but they made it up in an acrylic for me. I'll post a picture when the weather cools a little and I can sand and paint the parts.
Now to see how the little castor will go. Allowed some extra room to stop squashing the fingers between the castor and the base.
And some more panel beating work done. The flat part of the rear of the vice was good for this.
Now to set up for a weld and find out what's going to happen. Allowed 2.0mm gap for heat distortion.
Failure on the 1st attempt. Got what I deserved for taking short cut's. Smoke came off the burning paint and the burning melamine. Had to walk away for a while. When I came back and checked everything, there was no heat distortion bending. Now stuck with the 2.0mm pre-bend of the square tubing.
Cleaned up the surfaces with the wire wheel in the grinder.
Then to cut the join for another attempt at it.
Finally had enough of that enamel paint. Hard on the surface, but underneath is soft paint. Smears and spreads everywhere like glue when trying to clean off with the wire wheel in the grinder. 3 and 4 goes with the paint stripper and scraping knifes to get rid of this problem. Then cleaned up with a sctochbrite pad and plenty of water.
Now to make some changes. Things just weren't working for me. Started using some 3.0mm thick aluminium flat as spacers. The bigger piece of aluminium flat is to be used as a heatsink, to soak up the heat from welding this thin 1.0mm thick tubing.
That aluminium plate proved to be a simple and easy solution to the welding problems. Able to weld with more power. And the aluminium didn't melt.
Here is my 'disc'-ussion of the connection of the eye-stalk to the dome.
After cutting a hole in the dome with a razorblade,
I cut two round pieces of cardboard and stuck them to the correct sides of the stalk shaft and then eyed another piece to go around, glued it and painted it and it doesn't look too bad.
Here are two pictures of it, looking a bit squeezed in, but OK for my tastes
The inside of the dome, with the end of the stalk glued down and then double card boarded in, since I am not planning for it to be rotate-able.
It extended out and bent.
Picture of the what its length actually should be, doesn't look to bad for the eye and discs being 2x size.
Thanks for reading! Interesting dome-light creation tomorrow!
I've been sanding the taper part of the dome. Still need one more session but it's close. Turns out the sander pivot arm at rest was pretty much the perfect angle. I raised the whole frame up and down to get an even sand. Waiting for a warm dry day. Here's how it looks now:
Meantime I've been working on the gun. The gazing globes I found on Amazon have a hole predrilled. I 3D printed a jig to drill the opposite hole. It has a base with a pin to fit the hole that's already there. Then a cylinder which fits the globe snugly, and a top with a pilot hole in the middle.
I'll upload the model files after I make a few minor changes based on my experience. The jig worked perfectly for drilling the second hole directly opposite. I then used a step drill to bore the holes out. My jig wasn't the best for that part but it worked. Here's the globe on a piece of tubing:
I'd already 3D printed the gun bosses and sprayed them silver. I built a bending jig for the rods based on ones I've seen in other diaries. I used steel rods, bent them to the proper angles, and cut them off with a dremel. I assembled the rods to the bosses with gorilla glue and gave it a few coats of silver spray. Then I glued the cage/bosses to the tube and the tube to the globe.
Here's a side by side comparison of the new gun and the old paint roller placeholder
I've also been working on some special effects for the gun. I took apart a small flashlight with a 6 LED bulb and bought a couple meteor flash strips off eBay. A few printed spacer parts and a wooden square dowel plus some wire and I made an insert. But then I tried to test it with what I thought was a 12v power supply. It turned out to be 18v and fried everything. Now the company which sold me the light strips is closed until February and it's in China with 3 weeks delivery time, so my gun will be non-functional until then. Here's some pics anyway. I'll post more including maybe some vid when I get replacement parts.
The triangles look a little pointy to me, but as MovieDalek says, the shape changes considerably depending on the angle you're looking at it from.
Here's the kind of thing I'm thinking of, Dalek 1 from DMP... but, as I say, hardly definitive. But it certainly looks perforated, and the open area must be in the region of 20-40 percent.
You can also see the bolt through the lower neck ring.