The 2005 Series Dalek Plans 5.3

Is it on the right of the NSD plan?

These are the measurements that correspond to the circles you drew.

What is the total height, width and depth of the dalek? (I can get the depth from the skirt measurement, but height? not sure.

@Rebecca Carroll

The overall height is the sum of the heights of all sections added together, and would vary slightly, depending on how the dome is positioned over the neckbin.

The widest point is the width of the fender.

The deepest point is the measurement front-to-back of the fender.

Where can I get the Moflash lens, i can't made then by myself !

On 1/8/2024 at 3:06 PM, Creepyepast said:

Where can I get the Moflash lens, i can't made then by myself !

 

Moflash lenses appear to be slightly difficult these days. the best bet in my opinion is 3D printing them. there are many accurate models here that can be printed on any FDM printer you can find. 

there is a chance that you can find the lenses online to buy, but those sites can be slightly sketchy.

depending on the filament you buy and the printer you have/find, they can be produced fairly accurately.

filament can come as cheap as 17 dollars, but do keep in mind that they can sometimes be of poor quality, meaning that there could be a lot of stringing and warping (little hair-like strings that the extruder pulls when hovering from point A to point B while printing, or dents and deformation that occur when the filament is moist or the temperatures between room and printer collide)

good quality filament usually range from 21 to 40+ dollars when coming in a roll of 1000g (keep in mind that the filament size also plays a role, the most common diameter is 1.75mm)

I would recommend PLA since it is the easiest and least messiest variant in my opinion.

for printers the cheapest i can recommend with the best quality is the "Prusa Mini", which costs around 300 dollars.

you can just use a friend's printer, but keep in mind that there are many more Dalek parts that can be 3d printed very accurately!

as for printer settings you might have to experiment for the best result, the most defining factors being "layer height" and the temperatures.

my print bed is heated up to 60°C, while i tend to print PLA at 205°C to avoid stringing.

of course there are mire methods to obtain/fabricate these that can be more accurate, but this is the solution that works best for me.

happy building and printing, hope this helps, cheers!